The cap is perfectly fine, but it is hard plastic on hard plastic with no seal from the factory so I was figuring a rubber seal would probably fix the issue on track. That seemed like the easiest fix, but I wasn't sure if anyone else had a similar issue. The expansion tank is not overfilled, but it appears to be sloshing around too much on track for the stock cap.

I do have an oil cooler.

Glad to hear I am not the only one who leaks coolant from the overflow tank. I was trying to find pictures of the newer Z coolant overflow tank. It does look like a pressurized system now with an entirely different coolant overflow tank. Is there a cap that would work for my overflow tank without changing the entire cooling system or would I probably be ok just adding a rubber washer under the cap?

I do not cover the oil cooler as it has a thermostat to handle the wide range of temps we get here in WI.

 

Glad to hear you had a good time.

What are you using to measure the temperature of the exhaust? If it's an infrared tool, then you're probably getting a false low reading from the exhaust and an accurate reading from the thermo tape. Infrared thermometers rely on an assumed constant value for the emissivity of the object. For steel, the emissivity is lower than 1 (black), so will read a lower temperature compared to the black insulation tape which will be closer to 1 and hence read a higher, more accurate temperature.

I wouldn't worry about the coolant, I get the same but it's never enough to drop the fluid level in the system: see attached photos.

I block my oil cooler in the southern winter (temps below 50) and see oil temps of 180 during normal driving. Leaving the cooler unblocked results in lower readings. The thermostatic sandwich plates are OK, but they never fully seal closed, so I like the extra insurance of getting oil temps up faster, although it still takes 10 minutes to get to 180 in the 'cold'.

The 370z boys got me on to some new oil, I did a change today and will let you know if I can notice any difference from the redline 5w30 I was using (probably incorrectly)

 

See here for emissivity coefficients. Steel ranges from 0.07 - 0.88. My guess is the thermo tool you're using is assuming 0.9, so it will likely be wildly off. If you have a temperature probe for tyre temp, try using that instead.

 

You want me to use a tire temp probe on the exhaust? How high do they go for temps?

I usually run Mobil 1 extended performance for oil on the track since it is supposed to be better for heat.

We get winter temps well below zero here. I know my coolant gets up to temp regularly, but I will keep an eye on oil temps- maybe even coolant temps now with the new radiator.

 

I was just thinking out loud. How high was the heat wrap reading?

Quick look on the longacre website at one of their cheap pyrometers, I see this:

2000º Range if optional brake probe is used
With standard tire probe max 500º

So maybe if you can borrow a brake temperature probe from someone that might be better?

How do you find it? Does it still look good after a long track day? I wasn't sure what to go with, but the 5w-50 was unanimously recommended from the 370z brigade and this is what the marketting material says:

We offer Mobil 1™ FS X2 5W-50 synthetic oil for use in high performance engines where conventional oils may not perform. This 5W-50 synthetic oil is suitable for use in many gasoline and diesel applications (without Diesel Particulate Filter), including turbo-charged and supercharged forced induction engines


Got any videos of the track day?

 

I've used that Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for years on my car (70k miles now) - and while it doesn't look new after every change, the colors are consistent whenever I change it without any particulates on the drain plug. I've been meaning to do Blackstone's test, but I'm lazy.

I just bought a bunch of Amsoil Synthetic, to see if the car likes the switch. We'll see.

 

I'm pretty sure the exhaust temps were under 500 by the time I cooled the car down and parked, but I am not 100% sure as I was more concerned about the temp of the rear diff and tires to make sure I was running the right amount of air.

The Mobil 1 extended performance has a gold label that I believe references 15,000 mile life. It was right next to regular mobil 1, but when you look on the back it appears to be rated better for high heat.

I do have some videos. They are not terribly exciting and apparently my GoPro likes to take videos that are 17:42 and less because it would cut at that point and start a new video mid-lap? I will try to post one up if I get some time.

 

FWIW...GoPro (especially older models) have batteries that heat cycle as they discharge... resetting the camera. That happens w mine all the time. I tried 4 batteries before I just gave up on it. It's just a design flaw of the camera's batteries.

Best,
Steve

 

I have a Hero2 and mine does the same thing. I always put it down to file size and trying to manage a file below some limit, probably FAT32 (4GB).

I think the free software on the gopro website can stitch it back together quite easily for you.

 

Can the GoPro handle NTFS format? That would be the dog's danglies.

 

I'm not sure, but I don't think so.

You going to the DnB track day this Friday?

 

Yes, I am. You?

 

I signed up on Sunday but the job I'm working got delayed on Monday, from Wednesday to Friday, so I hope so!

 

Here's hoping.

 

I think my GoPro is a Hero Session 5 if that means anything to you guys.

It also had an issue charging back up. I would plug it in and it would start charging in my car with the electronics on, but when I came back it would have stopped charging and still say low battery. I thought maybe the car was shutting off power to the charger, but the green light on the charger was still on. Then it locked up for an entire session with the red light on, but would not record. It charged ok when I got it home though.