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Personally I like the 3rd option you show there. The lip infront of the bid middle vent will make a significant difference. The lip creates a low pressure zone directly behind it.
It's not super obvious in the videos I posted, but when I tried an open vent without a lip, the wool strips at the front of the vent hung limp. By adding a lip, those wool strips were showing a lot higher air flow.
You could always enlarge the hole to get more airflow if it's still not sufficient.
I've actually been thinking about relocating the radiator overflow tank - it should free up some space right behind the radiator, where you can then run a blocking plate and force more air out of the top of the hood (at that center vent you mention). I also like the third option, but it feels like the vents should sit further forward than they do.
I agree with you guys about the 3rd hood (painted carbon Autokits hood). If I find I need it to control heat and end up getting a hood, I might leave it carbon at 1st to see if I can make it look ok with some other carbon accents on the car and then I might try painting the entire hood including the vents or maybe everything but the center of the vents.
We are getting hit with a huge snow storm for the next three days!?! Hopefully, this all melts by my track day in two weeks. The view from work right now:
And to think just a week ago we were covered in 2 ft. of snow... Thankfully, it has been warm enough to melt most of that snow already for my track day on Sunday.
I am really hoping that my rear ABS sensors survive this time. So far I have upgraded the rear differential cover to Z1 to add capacity and add cooling fins. Last night I also upgraded to Redline 75W90 and used heat wrap on the exhaust in hopes of keeping some of the heat away from the rear differential. Fingers crossed I won't need a rear diff cooler...
Today I finally installed my new carbon wrapped grille with some much more open mesh to hopefully flow more air and help keep those coolant temps in check on the track this weekend.
Yes, the emblem is just the regular Infiniti Fuji emblem stuck on with the OEM adhesive. I have thought a lot about changing badging to Nissan badges and putting Skyline on the trunk and I tried the grille first with no badge and it looks a little generic.
The Infiniti Fuji is also probably the only part that still ties the black chrome in the headlights and fog light surrounds (opening for brake ducts) together so I don't have to black everything out- at least that's what I keep telling myself so I can spend money on go fast parts instead.
The track day at Road America went much better than last time. Oil temps maxed out at about 237 and coolant in the 220's. It is interesting to see how coolant only seems to range from 183 (regular driving) to 220's WOT on track while oil jumps from 160's (regular driving) all the way up to the high 230's on track?
The rear diff. also stayed in the 230's and no ABS sensors melted this time. The strange thing is that the exhaust wrap I used on the exhaust around the differential was consistently hotter than the exhaust on either end that was not wrapped. Weird. It seems pointless or maybe the heat from the differential was warming up the wrap?
The only real problem I had was that the cap for the coolant overflow tank spit coolant every time all over the hood, intake, front of the engine, etc. Is it just that the coolant is thrashing around so much from the corners on track that it leaks out or is it due to the heat causing excessive pressure causing it to leak? If it is just leaking from getting thrashed around I think I could just get a rubber washer for the cap for a tighter seal. Anyone try this?
While the coolant system pressure was good as evidenced by your temps, it appears the cap should be replaced. I have no idea what rubber is used so I would just cough up the bucks necessary to replace it. Make sure you're not overfilling the expansion tank, too.
I haven't checked your build thread so I don't know if you have an oil cooler. The valve train is oil-cooled exclusively. Well, except for the head-valve contact area...
Do you drive with your oil cooler uncovered? In lower temps, it could be over-cooled. I had mine blocked in the winter and saw temps between 167 and 178 in normal driving. Now that it's "summer" (88 today), temps are getting up to 200 covered. Will be taking off the blocking plate this weekend and will report back.
For the coolant overflow, I get that from time to time. It just seeps past the cap. I think on the 12+ 370Z they switched over to a pressurized overflow system with the same cap as the rad to prevent this. Was thinking about going that route when I upgrade the rad.
04-10-2018, 12:20 PM
