The G37S is a great track car
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Calg37USMC (02-22-2018)
02-22-2018, 09:21 PM
#485
Premier Member
02-23-2018, 11:08 AM
#487
Trying to use one set of pads is a big compromise. You usually end up with pads that dust and squeal a ton on the street and drive you nuts while only providing adequate stopping distances on the track. You will be amazed how much better your lap times are with a serious set of brake pads. I would say they make a much bigger difference than adding significantly more power. They are also a lot cheaper and make your car a lot safer.
I would also strongly recommend stainless braided brake lines and Motul RBF600 high temp fluid. Front brake ducts are never a bad idea either.
Just remember- It doesn't matter how fast your car is if you can't stop.
02-23-2018, 01:31 PM
#488
Braided steel brake lines have never been much of an improvement for my vehicles. Pads are a much more apparent improvement. But then, I installed the subframe collars and trans mount which offer little apparent improvement either.
Dedicated track pads for just one event is hard core. If that's you, then more power to ya. I'll stick with the noisy Hawks for the moment.
Dedicated track pads for just one event is hard core. If that's you, then more power to ya. I'll stick with the noisy Hawks for the moment.
02-23-2018, 02:18 PM
#489
The braided lines make it a lot easier to modulate the brakes as they give back so much feel to the pedal. Hard to modulate brakes when they are mush.
Last edited by 4DRZ; 02-23-2018 at 02:32 PM.
02-23-2018, 04:49 PM
#491
It becomes mushy from the excessive heat on the track. I have put stainless lines on my last 7 cars and I noticed a difference right away on all of them, especially on track under threshold braking. I am surprised you did not notice any difference.
02-23-2018, 06:54 PM
#492
My take, even if you don't want it:
First time out on the track and never been before? Use an upgraded street pad
Going out more than the first time ever? Get a dedicated set of track pads
This obviously comes down to budget as well. I have Carbotech XP10/8 and the noise they make is AWFUL. They are also RIDICULOUSLY sentitive (high bite) to the point my wife won't get in the car. They're also expensive, make a crap ton of dust and are just a general pain in the *** on the street. I would never daily them. That's not to say it can't be done, but I use the stock pads on the street and track with my track pads.
Takes me about an hour to change the pads and bleed the calipers. It also gives me the opportunity to scoot around underneath and make sure everything is tight before I get back out on the track.
I drive 99% of my miles on the street.
Now, my track car (Datsun 260z) I only run race pads. They suck ***** on the street, but it does 90% of it's miles under track duty and so I don't see the point in 2 sets of pads.
Everything is application and budget specific, but it does make the experience more enjoyable to have 2 sets of pads, particularly in this car because it's so heavy and demands so much more of the brakes on track.
Again, first time ever out? You're not going fast or hard (not a judgement to you, just fact) and so you can get away with a lot lesser pad. I don't recommend the stock pads, I used them at autocross and they got over heated, so I would always recommend a better than stock pad.
I also don't want an expensive paper weight:
https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...-lightning-lap
But plenty of people have been on the track with stock pads and had no problem also.
First time out on the track and never been before? Use an upgraded street pad
Going out more than the first time ever? Get a dedicated set of track pads
This obviously comes down to budget as well. I have Carbotech XP10/8 and the noise they make is AWFUL. They are also RIDICULOUSLY sentitive (high bite) to the point my wife won't get in the car. They're also expensive, make a crap ton of dust and are just a general pain in the *** on the street. I would never daily them. That's not to say it can't be done, but I use the stock pads on the street and track with my track pads.
Takes me about an hour to change the pads and bleed the calipers. It also gives me the opportunity to scoot around underneath and make sure everything is tight before I get back out on the track.
I drive 99% of my miles on the street.
Now, my track car (Datsun 260z) I only run race pads. They suck ***** on the street, but it does 90% of it's miles under track duty and so I don't see the point in 2 sets of pads.
Everything is application and budget specific, but it does make the experience more enjoyable to have 2 sets of pads, particularly in this car because it's so heavy and demands so much more of the brakes on track.
Again, first time ever out? You're not going fast or hard (not a judgement to you, just fact) and so you can get away with a lot lesser pad. I don't recommend the stock pads, I used them at autocross and they got over heated, so I would always recommend a better than stock pad.
I also don't want an expensive paper weight:
https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...-lightning-lap
But plenty of people have been on the track with stock pads and had no problem also.
02-23-2018, 07:15 PM
#493
I found the stock pads a tad weak at the track but that didn't stop me. Unholy wear is what stopped me. Pads were gone at 48k miles because of two track events. I'm eager to see how long the Hawks last since they are properly bedded. Only plan one more event in the G (after coil-overs) so the comparison should be fairly valid.
I agree with Splitter, usage should drive your choice.
I agree with Splitter, usage should drive your choice.
02-26-2018, 09:17 AM
#494
My take, even if you don't want it:
First time out on the track and never been before? Use an upgraded street pad
Going out more than the first time ever? Get a dedicated set of track pads
This obviously comes down to budget as well. I have Carbotech XP10/8 and the noise they make is AWFUL. They are also RIDICULOUSLY sentitive (high bite) to the point my wife won't get in the car. They're also expensive, make a crap ton of dust and are just a general pain in the *** on the street. I would never daily them. That's not to say it can't be done, but I use the stock pads on the street and track with my track pads.
Takes me about an hour to change the pads and bleed the calipers. It also gives me the opportunity to scoot around underneath and make sure everything is tight before I get back out on the track.
I drive 99% of my miles on the street.
Now, my track car (Datsun 260z) I only run race pads. They suck ***** on the street, but it does 90% of it's miles under track duty and so I don't see the point in 2 sets of pads.
Everything is application and budget specific, but it does make the experience more enjoyable to have 2 sets of pads, particularly in this car because it's so heavy and demands so much more of the brakes on track.
Again, first time ever out? You're not going fast or hard (not a judgement to you, just fact) and so you can get away with a lot lesser pad. I don't recommend the stock pads, I used them at autocross and they got over heated, so I would always recommend a better than stock pad.
I also don't want an expensive paper weight:
https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...-lightning-lap
But plenty of people have been on the track with stock pads and had no problem also.
First time out on the track and never been before? Use an upgraded street pad
Going out more than the first time ever? Get a dedicated set of track pads
This obviously comes down to budget as well. I have Carbotech XP10/8 and the noise they make is AWFUL. They are also RIDICULOUSLY sentitive (high bite) to the point my wife won't get in the car. They're also expensive, make a crap ton of dust and are just a general pain in the *** on the street. I would never daily them. That's not to say it can't be done, but I use the stock pads on the street and track with my track pads.
Takes me about an hour to change the pads and bleed the calipers. It also gives me the opportunity to scoot around underneath and make sure everything is tight before I get back out on the track.
I drive 99% of my miles on the street.
Now, my track car (Datsun 260z) I only run race pads. They suck ***** on the street, but it does 90% of it's miles under track duty and so I don't see the point in 2 sets of pads.
Everything is application and budget specific, but it does make the experience more enjoyable to have 2 sets of pads, particularly in this car because it's so heavy and demands so much more of the brakes on track.
Again, first time ever out? You're not going fast or hard (not a judgement to you, just fact) and so you can get away with a lot lesser pad. I don't recommend the stock pads, I used them at autocross and they got over heated, so I would always recommend a better than stock pad.
I also don't want an expensive paper weight:
https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...-lightning-lap
But plenty of people have been on the track with stock pads and had no problem also.
03-23-2018, 08:03 AM
#495
Has anyone upgraded their LSD or added a rear differential cooler? I just ordered my 4.083 gears and was considering a Wavetrac or OS Giken LSD while I have the diff open, but I am having trouble justifying the cost since I think I will notice the gears a lot more and I really don't notice issues with the factory LSD.
I had real issues with the heat in the rear differential about 1 1/2 years ago at Road America due to the high speeds. I actually melted the ABS sensors attached to the rear diff (stupid design) and lost my ABS. I have since upgraded to Redline diff oil (75W 90?), a Z1 larger capacity cover with cooling fins, and I will use heat wrap on the exhaust going around the diff. I hope this is enough to work, but I see there is one company that makes a rear diff cooler for the 370Z that should work for me, but it is about $1k. Anyone have issues or fixes for this?
I had real issues with the heat in the rear differential about 1 1/2 years ago at Road America due to the high speeds. I actually melted the ABS sensors attached to the rear diff (stupid design) and lost my ABS. I have since upgraded to Redline diff oil (75W 90?), a Z1 larger capacity cover with cooling fins, and I will use heat wrap on the exhaust going around the diff. I hope this is enough to work, but I see there is one company that makes a rear diff cooler for the 370Z that should work for me, but it is about $1k. Anyone have issues or fixes for this?