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My G37 is overheating. Of course, right? But I don’t think it’s the water pump because the oil on the dipstick doesn’t look milky. On my way to work this morning I had one of the hoses that goes from the back of the engine block to the fire wall burst open with antifreeze spilling everywhere. Moments before this happened I was driving on the freeway when I left off the gas to take the exit when the car downshifted really hard and felt like it lost almost all power. I am not sure if it was due to it about to overheat or if it’s separate. Please tell me your opinions!
Ah, the inevitable heater hose connector failure, although strange seeing worm clamps there. Perhaps a previous owner replaced that connector at some point in the past.
Ah, the inevitable heater hose connector failure, although strange seeing worm clamps there. Perhaps a previous owner replaced that connector at some point in the past.
Replace the connector, (maybe this time with a metal piece), top off your fluid, and check things out for a few days afterwards, you'll be fine.
I was able to put the hose back together successfully for now, topped off w/ antifreeze. Then I started driving and within 4 min it overheated again. When I pulled over and looked at the engine the hose was good but I could literally hear the antifreeze boiling inside the radiator/heater hose.
Good for you on the connecter, that can be a real PITA.
Sounds like air in the coolant system. If you can get it to a trusted shop, have them properly flush & fill. Should cost about $150 give or take.
honestly, I can’t get it anywhere. My wallet is beyond hurt rn from other **** I had to take care of and I don’t get paid for a few weeks… how would I do the flush, fill, and bleed myself..? I’m no mechanic but I was able to replace the valve cover gaskets on both of the cylinder heads on this car 3 years ago.
I was able to put the hose back together successfully for now, topped off w/ antifreeze. Then I started driving and within 4 min it overheated again. When I pulled over and looked at the engine the hose was good but I could literally hear the antifreeze boiling inside the radiator/heater hose.
Those aren’t the stock clamps/connector.Did the hose just come off, or did the replacement connector break?
I would replace that one with a metal “Dorman 3/4” to 3/4” heater hose connector”. NAPA, Autozone and even Walmart should carry.
I believe the previous owner had someone work on the car which is why the clamps aren’t stock/oem. the hose slipped off and cause antifreeze to burst everywhere. I was able to get the hose back on correctly and added antifreeze. The next time I started driving it, it began overheating within 4 minutes….
oh and there’s one tidbit of info about the car… we hadn’t used the ac in over a year. Partly because it sat for 8 months due to expired tags and also because the ac compressor seemed to not work when I tried it last summer. But a week or two ago, I tried the ac and to my surprise, it worked. The compressor responded and cooled the car down. I had tried it in the first place because we had to drive an hour and a half in both directions to a work thing I had to attend. Well, when we arrived at the destination [and hour and a half of driving w/ the ac on] the ac stopped being cold and the engine began to rev up to like 2000-3000 rpm’s and immediately drop back down when the car was parked and idling. I immediately shut it off and didn’t run the car again for a few hours. And I haven’t used the ac since. I’m not sure if it’s related but I have a feeling it might be…. @Rochester
…. and when the car revved up to 2,000-3,000 rpm’s it would drop down then rev back up to about the same rpm’s then fallback down. It almost looked like the needle on the dashboard was bouncing up and down. @Rochester
Craig, you pinged me twice, but the honest truth is I don't have any advice other than the basic stuff... replacing the heater hose connector, and flushing the coolant system.
As for AC and the coolant system, I suppose if the engine is overheating then the AC could suffer, but these are two completely separate systems. Focus on getting the coolant problem addressed first... you can live without AC, but you can't function without a working coolant system. I still think it's a good idea to have a shop do a proper flush & fill.
