Do I need adjustable camber arms? Toe bolts?
Do I need adjustable camber arms? Toe bolts?
So I need to have my shocks replaced but I'm not happy with the stock suspension. I understand I can go a few routes to fix this but I'd like to lower my car when I move from where I currently live. The roads where I live are genuinely horrendous and I do a lot of driving so I'd like to keep it raised for now. I'd like to get coilovers so I researched a bunch and received an email from Silver's stating their NEOMAX maximum height was 1/4 to 1/2 inch below factory height. So my theory is I can run them at max height while I save up to move, then get the adjustable arms and bolts to dial in everything when I lower it more?
Would this be possible or would my alignment be off without them? I'd hate to spend all this money plus the coilovers only to show up to the shop and they tell me I didn't need everything if I'm at max height. And yes I'd just get new shocks but that'd be a waste of money if I'm just going to get coilovers in a year if that makes sense.
Also not entirely confident what I'll need when I do lower it since I'm AWD and keeping it divorced. Any insight would be extremely appreciated!
Would this be possible or would my alignment be off without them? I'd hate to spend all this money plus the coilovers only to show up to the shop and they tell me I didn't need everything if I'm at max height. And yes I'd just get new shocks but that'd be a waste of money if I'm just going to get coilovers in a year if that makes sense.
Also not entirely confident what I'll need when I do lower it since I'm AWD and keeping it divorced. Any insight would be extremely appreciated!
Anytime you raise or lower ride heights, you'll throw off your camber and toe settings. My suggestion is if you lower your car slightly, have it dialed in using a four wheel laser rack with a experienced tech. You'll need adjustable upper control arms (the G does NOT use a MscPherson strut suspension front, so bolts are out) to allow the tech to get the suspension back to OEM specs.
But if your roads are truly horrendous, I'd advise you to keep your stock springs and buy high-quality shocks like Koni 8241 SA sport dampers or Bilstein B6 dampers. Save some money from buying coilovers and instead purchase adjustable swaybars to improve the handling. THEN have a four-wheel alignment done to your G37X. Your G will handle better, wear tires better and still ride over potholes and bumps for less money.
But if your roads are truly horrendous, I'd advise you to keep your stock springs and buy high-quality shocks like Koni 8241 SA sport dampers or Bilstein B6 dampers. Save some money from buying coilovers and instead purchase adjustable swaybars to improve the handling. THEN have a four-wheel alignment done to your G37X. Your G will handle better, wear tires better and still ride over potholes and bumps for less money.
Anytime you raise or lower ride heights, you'll throw off your camber and toe settings. My suggestion is if you lower your car slightly, have it dialed in using a four wheel laser rack with a experienced tech. You'll need adjustable upper control arms (the G does NOT use a MscPherson strut suspension front, so bolts are out) to allow the tech to get the suspension back to OEM specs.
But if your roads are truly horrendous, I'd advise you to keep your stock springs and buy high-quality shocks like Koni 8241 SA sport dampers or Bilstein B6 dampers. Save some money from buying coilovers and instead purchase adjustable swaybars to improve the handling. THEN have a four-wheel alignment done to your G37X. Your G will handle better, wear tires better and still ride over potholes and bumps for less money.
But if your roads are truly horrendous, I'd advise you to keep your stock springs and buy high-quality shocks like Koni 8241 SA sport dampers or Bilstein B6 dampers. Save some money from buying coilovers and instead purchase adjustable swaybars to improve the handling. THEN have a four-wheel alignment done to your G37X. Your G will handle better, wear tires better and still ride over potholes and bumps for less money.
I emailed the alignment shop that would do this and they recommended true coilovers, rear toe and camber arms, and eccentric lock out kits for both toe and camber arms. As much as I want a lower car, the Ark exhaust hangs so low I would end up destroying it..
I'd definitely entertain just replacing all the shocks but I can't find any that fit the X. I see KYB makes front and rears but they don't make rear springs, only fronts? Wouldn't this add rear end sag if I used my old factory springs? I would really want to replace everything if I could but I feel like coilovers aren't for me.
I emailed the alignment shop that would do this and they recommended true coilovers, rear toe and camber arms, and eccentric lock out kits for both toe and camber arms. As much as I want a lower car, the Ark exhaust hangs so low I would end up destroying it..
I emailed the alignment shop that would do this and they recommended true coilovers, rear toe and camber arms, and eccentric lock out kits for both toe and camber arms. As much as I want a lower car, the Ark exhaust hangs so low I would end up destroying it..
Not sure how much I believe that, like just about anything- with time I believe springs will wear out too. Especially after 12+ years of carrying the weight of a car on them, I think it would make sense if I got new front assemblies to get rears too, This car is the only one in the world I can't just replace the rear spring.
I tend to agree with @dkmura that the springs are not a maintenance item.
Why not just go with the coilovers that are at most 1/2" off from stock, then see how close you can get the alignment because you need to do one anyways after a strut/shock install.
If you can keep the toe close to zero and caster fairly uniform on both sides, then up to 2 degrees of camber is fine per the coupe alignment specs. If not, save up and add UCAs, Rear Camber Arms and Toe Bolts at a later date. The car is still drivable with the alignment off.
Sometimes you cannot allow perfection to be the enemy of the good.
Why not just go with the coilovers that are at most 1/2" off from stock, then see how close you can get the alignment because you need to do one anyways after a strut/shock install.
If you can keep the toe close to zero and caster fairly uniform on both sides, then up to 2 degrees of camber is fine per the coupe alignment specs. If not, save up and add UCAs, Rear Camber Arms and Toe Bolts at a later date. The car is still drivable with the alignment off.
Sometimes you cannot allow perfection to be the enemy of the good.
Last edited by socketz67; Feb 10, 2025 at 10:14 PM.
I tend to agree with @dkmura that the springs are not a maintenance item.
Why not just go with the coilovers that are at most 1/2" off from stock, then see how close you can get the alignment because you need to do one anyways after a strut/shock install.
If you can keep the toe close to zero and caster fairly uniform on both sides, then up to 2 degrees of camber is fine per the coupe alignment specs. If not, save up and add UCAs, Rear Camber Arms and Toe Bolts at a later date. The car is still drivable with the alignment off.
Sometimes you cannot allow perfection to be the enemy of the good.
Why not just go with the coilovers that are at most 1/2" off from stock, then see how close you can get the alignment because you need to do one anyways after a strut/shock install.
If you can keep the toe close to zero and caster fairly uniform on both sides, then up to 2 degrees of camber is fine per the coupe alignment specs. If not, save up and add UCAs, Rear Camber Arms and Toe Bolts at a later date. The car is still drivable with the alignment off.
Sometimes you cannot allow perfection to be the enemy of the good.
Trending Topics
I honestly wasn't aware that the highest a Coilover can be adjusted is 1-2" below stock. 2" is a significant drop. The middle of that range is perfect, but requires additional suspension mods to get back to stock alignment spects.
The KYBs Excel-Gs are great dampers. Rear springs are likely still in great shape.
The KYBs Excel-Gs are great dampers. Rear springs are likely still in great shape.
I suspect for most people lowering a DD, the stance is a far greater priority than how the car handles. Personally, I'd like to raise my sedan about a 1/2", but it is what it is. The adjustable top mounts on my rear springs are maxed out on height, and the front lowering springs are fixed height, so... you learn to love it.
Yashi, unless you've unlimited funds, then every mod you make to a DD involves some kind of compromise. Every single mod. Well, maybe not a tune, but everything else, LOL.
Last edited by Rochester; Feb 11, 2025 at 09:16 AM.
Fair enough I see your point. I have to film some entrance/exit shots of my driveway to see what exactly is scraping. I noticed two equal scrapes on the bottom of my mufflers. Could be a coincidence and came from an uneven road, usually just the tips drag when I enter and exit. I think I'll just send it. You only live once! Might as well try it and get everything done. Worse comes to worse my exhaust tips get a little scraped up.
Fair enough I see your point. I have to film some entrance/exit shots of my driveway to see what exactly is scraping. I noticed two equal scrapes on the bottom of my mufflers. Could be a coincidence and came from an uneven road, usually just the tips drag when I enter and exit. I think I'll just send it. You only live once! Might as well try it and get everything done. Worse comes to worse my exhaust tips get a little scraped up.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JC-RH
Brakes & Suspension
2
Dec 26, 2013 12:14 AM











GL
