2011 G37 Keyfob Issues
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2011 G37 Keyfob Issues
Today, my car battery drained and had to get a jump start. Since then the keys on the keyfob are not working. Apparently, the keyfob has power as it allows to unlock/lock using the black button on the door latch and the car could also turn on. However, the keys on the keyfob to lock and unlock do not work. It is a genuine keyfob and I also replaced the CR2032 battery in remote.
What could be the problem and can I fix it myself? If so, how? I tried inserting the keyfob in its slot in the car for a few minutes but it did not help.
Thanks in advance.
What could be the problem and can I fix it myself? If so, how? I tried inserting the keyfob in its slot in the car for a few minutes but it did not help.
Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 458
Likes: 83
That's an odd one. So the buttons on your iKey are the ONLY thing that doesn't work? And none of them (lock, unlock, trunk, alarm)? But the external door / trunk request buttons are fine, and the car "sees" the key when you get in press the brake pedal and start?
First and most obvious is the make sure that CR2032 you used was fresh. Sometimes they sit on the shelf so long that a "new" battery will already be low on power. I'm speculating but I believe transmitting those lock and unlock signals requires more power from the fob's battery than the "call and response" of the door request buttons. Just a guess though.
Next check fuses 6, 9 & 10 in the fusebox near the driver's left leg. Not sure about that but it would be nice if that was the simple answer.
There is a unit called the Remote Keyless Entry Receiver which is the part in charge of receiving the signals transmitted from your iKey's buttons. I believe it's located behind the glovebox near the BCM. I don't know why that controller alone would have failed but make sure there is no water getting in around that area. Check the passenger's footwell for dampness.
FYI, that keyfob "slot" near the driver's left knee is a different system which scans for the chip embedded in the fob. It's a backup in case the iKey's battery completely dies. If that happened you'd need to use the physical key to get in the car, then putting the fob in that slot would allow you to start the engine.
First and most obvious is the make sure that CR2032 you used was fresh. Sometimes they sit on the shelf so long that a "new" battery will already be low on power. I'm speculating but I believe transmitting those lock and unlock signals requires more power from the fob's battery than the "call and response" of the door request buttons. Just a guess though.
Next check fuses 6, 9 & 10 in the fusebox near the driver's left leg. Not sure about that but it would be nice if that was the simple answer.
There is a unit called the Remote Keyless Entry Receiver which is the part in charge of receiving the signals transmitted from your iKey's buttons. I believe it's located behind the glovebox near the BCM. I don't know why that controller alone would have failed but make sure there is no water getting in around that area. Check the passenger's footwell for dampness.
FYI, that keyfob "slot" near the driver's left knee is a different system which scans for the chip embedded in the fob. It's a backup in case the iKey's battery completely dies. If that happened you'd need to use the physical key to get in the car, then putting the fob in that slot would allow you to start the engine.
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