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I recently put in a Tesla screen and I ran into a problem. After I got done installing it into the car I go to turn on the car to now my lcd screen and my turn signal indication no longer works and also my AWD system is deactivated as well. I’ve went back to the manufacturer of the Tesla screen to see if they missed a cable for those things as I plugged in all the cables that was associated to the screen. My guess it has to do with a cable or something in the radio/climate area since that’s the only place I touched while working on the screen. All of the cars functions was working before putting in that screen and now that’s my dilemma. Anything will help to solve this problem because I can’t see my mileage left in my tank anymore as well as the cars mileage and all the extra stuff on the lcd.
Flying blind as I have no idea how the thing you bought gets connected, however, double check to make sure that Unified Meter/ AC Amp is properly plugged in. The amp is the white, plastic rectangular box mounted atop the AV headunit:
There are two harness connectors that are marked with YELLOW tape. These MUST be plugged into the amp or else you will have a ton of issues- many of which you describe in your post
It is EXTREMELY easy to mix those two connectors up with others in that center stack. Now, if that Tesla-thing harness taps into those two connectors, you will have to make sure those connections are correct. Again, flying blind as each of these units are different and almost none have proper installation instructions or customer service support.
I wish I had better advice. Worst case scenario go back to OEM until the seller provides some support. When I went through this with my BMW the seller was completely useless. Returned it and bought a (much cheaper) unit off eBay and that one worked like a charm. Just the luck of the draw...
Thanks for replying back! Yeah I have that box connected as the manufacturer said that was for the A/C box that manages it. Luckily I didn’t run to a problem with the A/C unit. I was wondering what connectors working with the lcd cluster unit & the AWD communication unit connector. Not the best picture the car is running and I can’t see anything on the screen as well as the Awd system fault as well.
Is that a sedan and what year? Does the LCD screen tell you to press the brake pedal before starting or is it always black?
First thing to check would be fuses 3, 4, 11 & 19 in the fusebox near the driver's left leg. Those are all involved and need to be passing current. As ILM pointed out, the weirdly named "Unified Meter / AC Amp" is directly involved in running the instrument panel and LCD screen and that would include specific grounds as well as signals that pass through that processor. Hopefully your new install hasn't interrupted any of those signal paths because even one popped pin from those multi-pin connectors could be the culprit.
Here are a couple dumb questions which I can't remember the answer to: Is there an "off" mode for the LCD screen while paging through the various display options? And #2, what happens when you adjust the illumination brightness (ignition needs to be On and I think there are separate settings for day and night)? I kinda don't think it's ever meant to go completely black so I'm just throwing out some ideas.
As I and 13_Skyline alluded to, the UMAC amp does more than control "AC." It is the "brains" behind the entire cluster display as well as many other sub-systems. If that center LCD screen is blank, 99% of the time there will be a AV COM/ U1000 error code. Again, double check those connections- as best you can- to the harnesses that came with that thing. The amp has two connections, if one is wrong...
Depending on where/ what company you bought the thing from, you might want to "google" your issue specifically using the brand name as others may have had similar issues. If I recall, some of these units required you to go into the settings and adjust the CANBUS protocols for proper functionality. Again, we can only offer generic advice as each of these things are different.
However, if you are not getting proper customer service/ tech support, I would return the car to OEM, ship the thing back, and file a dispute with your credit card company. This is what I had to do against AVINUSA with the crap they sent me for my BMW. Still fighting that issue but that is a separate topic.
I would be willing to wager a few beers that if you go back to OEM all problems will be solved. This is not the answer you may want to hear but, to me, a fully functioning car is paramount.
Originally Posted by 13_SkylineSedan
Here are a couple dumb questions which I can't remember the answer to: Is there an "off" mode for the LCD screen while paging through the various display options? And #2, what happens when you adjust the illumination brightness (ignition needs to be On and I think there are separate settings for day and night)? I kinda don't think it's ever meant to go completely black so I'm just throwing out some ideas.
Simple answers: the center LCD is always ON, even at the lowest brightness setting the screen display will function. Even if the LED's were blown, you would still be able to read the display. Alternatively, if the AV COM lines are down- which is what I suspect in OP's case- the LCD as a whole would be out.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 05-04-2024 at 10:33 AM.
thanks for both replying back! This how it currently looks in the back on the unit and yes those
2 yellow connectors are connected. I have 2 cable that I don’t remember what it did (that might be the 2 problems lol) that the manufacturer for the unit didn’t provide connectors for as they said doesn’t need to be connected.
My God! Is that a cluster buck of spaghetti wires....
One BIG ISSUE I see: NEVER work on electronic devices with the battery connected. I know it is easier to troubleshoot, but leaving the battery connected while fiddling with wires is a disaster waiting to happen. Based on that, you will definitely need to check ALL of your fuses.
OK, so it appears that the UMAC amp is connected properly. If those issues still persist then the issue points to that thing and/ or the missing (not needed (?)) harness(es). I can almost guarantee that, somewhere in that mess of wires, the two (2) AV COM (LCD/AMP) circuits are not connected properly.
At this point, I would entirely remove this thing and put all of the OEM pieces back in. Reconnect the battery and see if the car returns to normal. If it does, then you can proceed with the re-install. If it does NOT then you have a separate issue lurking.
I wish I could be of better help but this requires more of a "hands on" diagnosis.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 05-06-2024 at 12:09 PM.
Thanks for the advice! When you say “I can almost guarantee that, somewhere in that mess of wires, the two (2) AV COM (LCD/AMP) circuits are not connected properly”. What wires or connections would that be. And I also did install that screen with my battery still connected because I previously had a 300 and I had installed the same screen in and didn’t have any issues with it and the car didn’t freak out so I thought there was going to be a rainbow at the end of this install as well. I was definitely thinking about reverting back to OEM just to see what the issue was but just didn’t make my way around to do so but most likely going to attempt to do it this evening and if not sooner then later because I hate having any issues with my vehicles. Also what fuses need to be checked pertaining the cluster because I seen a forum a while back and I did look at the meter fuse that had the 10 amp and luckily that was totally fine even put a new one just to play it safe.
Thanks again!
To clarify, this car uses several different LAN's to operate the various bells, whistles, features, and "run" the car. CANBUS, AV COM, K-Line, and serial links all communicate with each other to some degree.
In this case, based on what I can determine, the two (2) AV COM lines (AMP->LCD & LCD->AMP) appear to be be connected. I am assuming that the two (2) (separate) AV COM lines (AMP->METER & METER->AMP) are also connected which is why the cluster illuminates and the gauges work- for the most part. In order for that AMP/LCD network to function, it requires information from the other networks. If something in that Chinese harness is not connected properly, then the AMP can not get the info it needs to turn ON the LCD and display the information.
Again, at this point you have two (2) options as I see it:
1) run the gauge cluster self-test and see if the LCD responds accordingly or,
2) Revert back to OEM and see if everything returns to normal.
If you are active on that facebook nonsense you may want to search there for some input.
I do not think you have a fuse issue as everything appears to power up. My concern here is that a power surge, or spike, could have "fried" a module or something. Again, we won't know until you go back to OEM.
05-02-2024, 09:43 PM
