When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Was getting an oil change recently and tech mentioned leak but wondering if my PS pump fluid is right where its been since my last turkey baster drain and fill, is this something just best left alone? Or will this get worse and should address now etc?
Very common leak. this is the rack "play" adjuster. It's a flat nut with a threaded bolt and a moon typed spacer that pushes on the rod of the rack. because it relies on clamping force to seal many times it's impossible to seal. I believe Nissan uses a type of grease in glob form for this area that over years and fluid changes it deteriorates and starts leaking.
Other than replacing the rack the only thing you can do is to clean this area extremely well with carburetor cleaner then dry as soon as possible and coat the exterior with a nice glob of strong RTV or even epoxy.
Taking of this part and coating the threads might result in a too tight or too loose of a rack which is why I dont suggest you do it. it will be extremely difficult to see any fluid drop since its not dropping leak but more of a "moisting" one.
Overall clean it up and monitor it over time, once you start noticing levels dropping you can try the trick above.
[QUOTE=BULL;[url=tel:4312044]4312044[/url]]Very common leak. this is the rack "play" adjuster. It's a flat nut with a threaded bolt and a moon typed spacer that pushes on the rod of the rack. because it relies on clamping force to seal many times it's impossible to seal. I believe Nissan uses a type of grease in glob form for this area that over years and fluid changes it deteriorates and starts leaking.
Other than replacing the rack the only thing you can do is to clean this area extremely well with carburetor cleaner then dry as soon as possible and coat the exterior with a nice glob of strong RTV or even epoxy.
Thanks Bull, been reading all over and you are dead on... you are a frigging wealth of info Sir! Have gone over your build thread a few times and learned a lot, again much appreciated... still in Miami? My daughter may transfer to University for her medical degree and if so, ill owe you a brew of your choice(attorney quick talking disclaimer-brew of your choice under 100) 😬
Very common leak. this is the rack "play" adjuster. It's a flat nut with a threaded bolt and a moon typed spacer that pushes on the rod of the rack. because it relies on clamping force to seal many times it's impossible to seal. I believe Nissan uses a type of grease in glob form for this area that over years and fluid changes it deteriorates and starts leaking.
Other than replacing the rack the only thing you can do is to clean this area extremely well with carburetor cleaner then dry as soon as possible and coat the exterior with a nice glob of strong RTV or even epoxy.
Taking of this part and coating the threads might result in a too tight or too loose of a rack which is why I dont suggest you do it. it will be extremely difficult to see any fluid drop since its not dropping leak but more of a "moisting" one.
Overall clean it up and monitor it over time, once you start noticing levels dropping you can try the trick above.
I'm assuming you said carb cleaner because people may have this laying around. Since I don't, do you have other reccomendations for what to clean it with? CRC Throttle Body Cleaner? Meguir's Quick Detailer? Degreaser spray? Anything else?
I'm assuming you said carb cleaner because people may have this laying around. Since I don't, do you have other reccomendations for what to clean it with? CRC Throttle Body Cleaner? Meguir's Quick Detailer? Degreaser spray? Anything else?
You'll need a type of hard core cleaner like TB cleaner/Carb/Brake cleaner. The reason why is that you need as much cleaning power as possible coming from a thin type cleaner, the reason is that it needs to get as deep in the threads as possible and dry as quickly as possible so that you can glob the entire area with silicone/RTV as quick as possible to prevent fluid from contaminating the thread surfaces. By doing so you're prepping the thread surface to accept the silicone/rtv and grab onto it. If done correctly you should end up with a "sealed" cap.
A sealed cap wont leak.
You'll need a type of hard core cleaner like TB cleaner/Carb/Brake cleaner. The reason why is that you need as much cleaning power as possible coming from a thin type cleaner, the reason is that it needs to get as deep in the threads as possible and dry as quickly as possible so that you can glob the entire area with silicone/RTV as quick as possible to prevent fluid from contaminating the thread surfaces. By doing so you're prepping the thread surface to accept the silicone/rtv and grab onto it. If done correctly you should end up with a "sealed" cap.
A sealed cap wont leak.
By utilizing the technique I mentioned you're able to slow this seepage down even more rendering it out of the maintenance list and putting it in the back burner.
This leak can depending on how fast, start saturating your Left boot in oil and start caking that area as well.
The method listed shouldn't take that much time, it can even be done on your next oil change.
4312920[/url]]You'll need a type of hard core cleaner like TB cleaner/Carb/Brake cleaner. The reason why is that you need as much cleaning power as possible coming from a thin type cleaner, the reason is that it needs to get as deep in the threads as possible and dry as quickly as possible so that you can glob the entire area with silicone/RTV as quick as possible to prevent fluid from contaminating the thread surfaces. By doing so you're prepping the thread surface to accept the silicone/rtv and grab onto it. If done correctly you should end up with a "sealed" cap.
A sealed cap wont leak.