fuel door, issuse
fuel door, issuse
I own a G37x 2013, and the fuel door is no longer function properly. When I lock the car the fuel door lock (plastic) comes out and the tank is locked, but when I unlock the car the fuel tank door springs out to far. So every time I unlock my car the fuel door opens (springs out to far) and won't close again. Unless I hold the fuel door in while locking the car.
What is problem? Is it the 'black clip on the fuel door? And how do I fix it? It's no longer in warranty
Thank You
What is problem? Is it the 'black clip on the fuel door? And how do I fix it? It's no longer in warranty
Thank You
I own a G37x 2013, and the fuel door is no longer function properly. When I lock the car the fuel door lock (plastic) comes out and the tank is locked, but when I unlock the car the fuel tank door springs out to far. So every time I unlock my car the fuel door opens (springs out to far) and won't close again. Unless I hold the fuel door in while locking the car.
What is problem? Is it the 'black clip on the fuel door? And how do I fix it? It's no longer in warranty
Thank You
What is problem? Is it the 'black clip on the fuel door? And how do I fix it? It's no longer in warranty
Thank You
Your fuel door isn't aligned properly and is under tension causing it to naturally open. When did this start? Did you do something to "spring" the door or was it like this when you bought it?
Start by aligning the door as they seem to be on weak hinges. May need to loosen mounting bolts or physically bend it bad to correct fitment. After it sits properly, if the issue still exists, look for anything creating tension and preventing the door from closing. Is it obviously hitting anything like the filler cap?
-Eric
Thanks for the video - really illustrates the issue.
Your fuel door isn't aligned properly and is under tension causing it to naturally open. When did this start? Did you do something to "spring" the door or was it like this when you bought it?
Start by aligning the door as they seem to be on weak hinges. May need to loosen mounting bolts or physically bend it bad to correct fitment. After it sits properly, if the issue still exists, look for anything creating tension and preventing the door from closing. Is it obviously hitting anything like the filler cap?
-Eric
Your fuel door isn't aligned properly and is under tension causing it to naturally open. When did this start? Did you do something to "spring" the door or was it like this when you bought it?
Start by aligning the door as they seem to be on weak hinges. May need to loosen mounting bolts or physically bend it bad to correct fitment. After it sits properly, if the issue still exists, look for anything creating tension and preventing the door from closing. Is it obviously hitting anything like the filler cap?
-Eric
Thank you Eric, you were right about the tension, the fuel door wasn't aligned properly causing it to be under tension. I was able to fix it by loosening the screw and adjusting the fuel door to the right area! I have an another question for you, the seal between my passenger door and back passenger door has started to peel off. (Shown in the images last 2 pictures) Can I use gorilla glue in order to place the rubber in again or something other form of glue would you recommend?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/l8MRX8cltVrt4q1F3
I believe that "flexible trim" piece has metal embedded in it which is meant to keep it in place. I don't think there is normally any adhesive involved, though I could be wrong. (The pic below is of a similar product but with more metal than our trim pieces have.)
I would first try just squeezing it tightly and then sliding it back in place. If that doesn't hold, just a couple spots of silicon adhesive would do, but go lightly.
Your two issues together make me wonder if your rear door and 1/4 panel were rebuilt at some point?
I would first try just squeezing it tightly and then sliding it back in place. If that doesn't hold, just a couple spots of silicon adhesive would do, but go lightly.
Your two issues together make me wonder if your rear door and 1/4 panel were rebuilt at some point?
I believe that "flexible trim" piece has metal embedded in it which is meant to keep it in place. I don't think there is normally any adhesive involved, though I could be wrong. (The pic below is of a similar product but with more metal than our trim pieces have.)
I would first try just squeezing it tightly and then sliding it back in place. If that doesn't hold, just a couple spots of silicon adhesive would do, but go lightly.
Your two issues together make me wonder if your rear door and 1/4 panel were rebuilt at some point?
I would first try just squeezing it tightly and then sliding it back in place. If that doesn't hold, just a couple spots of silicon adhesive would do, but go lightly.
Your two issues together make me wonder if your rear door and 1/4 panel were rebuilt at some point?
I have another question, my TPMS blinks for 1 min when the car is turning which means the TMPS isn't working. I had an infinite dealership take a look at it and they said it was just blown fuses. I have been searching the web and myg37 forms on how to locate which fuse it is and replacing. Any recommendation?
If you want to do some digging, your factory service manuals are all posted here:
Index of /FSM/G37/Sedan/2013
thanks to the NICO club. PG.pdf (power & ground) is all your wiring and WT.pdf (Wheel & Tire) has a description of the TPMS. And below the window that opens you can choose:
"Trouble loading the file? Click here to download a copy" and grab the pdf file.
I don't see a fuse that would cause your issue. More likely related to the senders - if they're even present. The blinking may flash a code but I don't know. The manuals should help you troubleshoot it.
Index of /FSM/G37/Sedan/2013
thanks to the NICO club. PG.pdf (power & ground) is all your wiring and WT.pdf (Wheel & Tire) has a description of the TPMS. And below the window that opens you can choose:
"Trouble loading the file? Click here to download a copy" and grab the pdf file.
I don't see a fuse that would cause your issue. More likely related to the senders - if they're even present. The blinking may flash a code but I don't know. The manuals should help you troubleshoot it.
Trending Topics
I believe that "flexible trim" piece has metal embedded in it which is meant to keep it in place. I don't think there is normally any adhesive involved, though I could be wrong. (The pic below is of a similar product but with more metal than our trim pieces have.)
I would first try just squeezing it tightly and then sliding it back in place. If that doesn't hold, just a couple spots of silicon adhesive would do, but go lightly.
Your two issues together make me wonder if your rear door and 1/4 panel were rebuilt at some point?
I would first try just squeezing it tightly and then sliding it back in place. If that doesn't hold, just a couple spots of silicon adhesive would do, but go lightly.
Your two issues together make me wonder if your rear door and 1/4 panel were rebuilt at some point?
-Eric
Thank you Eric, you were right about the tension, the fuel door wasn't aligned properly causing it to be under tension. I was able to fix it by loosening the screw and adjusting the fuel door to the right area! I have an another question for you, the seal between my passenger door and back passenger door has started to peel off. (Shown in the images last 2 pictures) Can I use gorilla glue in order to place the rubber in again or something other form of glue would you recommend?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/l8MRX8cltVrt4q1F3
https://photos.app.goo.gl/l8MRX8cltVrt4q1F3
-Eric
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SamL11B
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
5
Jan 15, 2017 11:08 AM




