Awesome!

 

Changed the oil today. Only 2500 miles on the current fill, but 7 months since the last time I changed the oil and the jack had cobwebs on it, so I decided to change anyway.

Decided to check the struts and end links, both looked good. Rubber on endlinks wasn't cracked and they moved freely. Saw the PN on the factory sport strut, so I decided to take a pic and see if I could use it and research replacements:

Nissan stamped on top, along with Tokico including a PN 1A12165 (Left). The right side is 1A12166 (Right)

I tried researching on the web and all I can find are used struts through Ebay motors.

Checked Amayama. Nothing under that PN.

When I check the Infiniti parts catalog online, it shows an entirely different PN for the left sport strut: https://parts.infinitiusa.com/p/INFI...01JK50KNW.html

It also states that the part "Fits G25, G35, G37, G37X, Q40" (essentially everything that shares our FM platform)

Is it possible that in order to keep the replacement parts catalog small, all of the replacement parts for the Sport model sedan are identical to those used by the Journey? There have been other conversations here regarding the sways (Sport Rear Sway had the purple dot, replacements I assume do not) and rack on both using the same replacement PN, now it appears that the dampers are the same as well, yet we know they are different. Since the Journey parts will work fine, seems possible and that the sport model parts we are replacing with aftermarket will one day be sought after for their uniqueness?

 

I like to use Z1 Motorsports to look up part numbers as I find other websites to be wrong or confusing. But knowing Nissan they probably did discontinue the sport shocks and just use 1 shock for all the different models now. They stopped making the IPL shocks too and i was forced to get some Konis.

 

The KYB Excel-gs are a one size fits all as well for the sedan. Coupe uses a different PN (same PN for all versions of the coupe). The Koni Sport Adjustable Yellows may be the only option if you want to retain the sport handling/stiffness.

 

I used the KYBs before in the rear but they couldn't handle the IPL springs but for so long. Was able to score some rear IPL shocks that were in a warehouse somewhere. Was going to use some front 2015+ 370Z Nismo shocks, as I heard they weren't as stiff as previous years, but they cost too much. I have the Konis at full stiff to be able to handle the IPL springs. Whatever you do stay away from Infiniti/Nissan advantage shocks.

 

This weekend I replaced all the OEM M6 bolts holding down my engine undertray. This time I went with 30mm stainless steel, serrated flange hex-heads, and black nylon washers. Ended up with a bag full of nasty old rusty bolts. Been wanting to do this for a while. It pairs well with the black TBW aluminum undertray.

And it's my $20 contribution to the "What did you do today" thread.

 

Sought after? IDK about that. It's a good damper, but I'm sure there are better. I'm also still using the OEM Tokico sport dampers at 57K miles and 14 years. It's been a long time since I've driven another G37, Sport dampers or otherwise, but I'm fairly confident they're different. Nissan would do the exact same with with their "sport tuned" suspension on the Maxima SE. All they did was use a different damper.


I understand coming to grips with the fact that you're just not driving the car much anymore. Dude, I'm living that, LOL. But I don't get the way early oil change for the fun of it.

 

That's nice, I remember reading when you mix stainless steel bolts with a steel / aluminum threads it will actually cause more issue down the road. Better alternative would be zinc dichromate hardware.

 

As our cars are closer to classic car status now than new, sought after in the sense that there were unique performance parts used that were short lived and somewhat misunderstood. For example, the springs, dampers and rear sway bar are different on the S sedan. The G35S was similar and often debated as well, but the replacement devices were cataloged differently for that model. Not sure that there are better dampers for our car as that’s what I’m trying to figure out as it seems that there is some degree of homogeny to many of the replacements (Koni Yellows being the exception).

Recall that I use Nissan Ester Oil, which is just a 5W30 conventional base oil with an excellent additive package. The base oil tends to shear around the 3k mile mark, so changing at 7 months or 2500 miles isn’t that early. I use synthetic in my other two cars and still change their oil at 4k. Those two are higher mileage, so peace of mind I guess as changes are easy and relatively inexpensive.

 

The mixing of metals is somewhat of an issue with the plumbing in your house as well. I’ve had to change the outdoor hose bibs because dissimilar metals were used by the prior owner.

 

I've been using synthetic oil for so long that I've forgotten there was anything else. nvrmnd

As for the SS bolts... I guess I'll see what's what over the next few years. But it's got to be better than what they replaced.

 

I've been been using the NEO for years as well. Guessing that it may be discontinued at some point, so I am ready to migrate over to Eneos Full Synthetic (https://www.eneos.us/product/eneos-5w-30/) as they created the NEO additive package for Nissan.

Valvetrain is whisper quiet, mileage and Blackstone Oil Analysis are excellent, and it gives me the oppty to crawl under the car and change the oil once or maybe twice a year :-)

https://motoiq.com/revenge-of-the-ne...with-diamonds/

I'm still not clear on which bolts you replaced. Undercarriage? The aluminum bracing just behind the undershroud? Agree that you have many years before you need to worry about dissimilar metals. Took my hose bibs a decade to become problematic. If you still have your car 10 years from now, we will be a couple of retired guys exchanging messages in a classic car forum.

 

There are 16 OEM bolts for the large undertray, and 6 others for the little wings on the left and right (whatever those are). There are also 3 plastic push tabs in the middle.

I replaced the OEM tray 4 years ago with an aluminum tray from TBW, purchased in gloss black. At the time, I bought a new bag of OEM bolts to go with the tray, but those got all rusty and grungy just like the originals. That's why I went with SS this time. Like I said, I suppose time will tell if SS bolts are good, better or worse. In the moment it seems the right choice.

This is a very old pic from way back when I discovered I had to remove the entire freaking tray in order to change the oil:



...replaced with these a few days ago.

 

@Rochester I see now. I have the Z1 undershroud, and it came with a bag of bolts that are likely SS as well. For the remainder of the bolts/clips in the area, they sell a kit: https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...undledTogether

The undershroud makes oil changes much easier and its much easier to retrieve things that fall down into the engine bay.

I have a bag of the clips only and replace them whenever I work on the car as I can almost find ones that are missing or have 1-2 of the little legs broken off. I replaced a handful around the cowl recently when I changed the battery. The ones in the front fender wells are notorious for falling out.

 

Hi @RobC7 - I was following your threads here for a while: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...-on-sedan.html and https://www.myg37.com/forums/intake-...mo-h-pipe.html

as I was considering the same mods to complement my Tanabe axleback. As noted in one of the threads, CA now visually inspects the y-pipe to ensure its the same design as OEM (no idea how this would effect emissions). So I am rethinking improvements and found this y-pipe from Muffler Express that is 2" on both sides back to the 2.5" collector (OEM y-pipe is less than 1 3/4 on each side), so it will match my OEM mid-pipe with Vibrant 1790 resonators: https://mufflerexpress.com/products/...pipe-flex-pipe

Tannabe also has a y-pipe that I have been thinking about, it's larger so rasp could occur: https://www.revel-usa.com/product-to...ring-s-y-pipe/

Where I get a little confused is the diameter of the inlet to the Tannabe axleback as it's advertised as 50mm (under 2") to 60mm(2.36"): https://www.revel-usa.com/product-to...ing-s-exhaust/

Could you add some insight on what size adapter you used here and it looks like you welded a piece between the end of the OEM Nismo midpipe and Tananbe inlets:



I took a bunch of measurements here and posted some pics: https://www.myg37.com/forums/intake-...-question.html

The bottleneck in the sedan's exhaust is definitely the 1 3/4 y-pipe segment, then again in the section of pipe after the mid-pipe where it goes from 2 1/4" to way under 2 inches.