I washed the car yesterday and finally got around to replacing the dead pedal.





Also couldn't help myself but to take a picture of how she sits in the garage. Big day tomorrow pending installation of Whiteline differential bushing and alignment.

 

Two questions:

1. Did/does your dead pedal have a "squish" to it?
2. What is the stuff on the floor in the garage? And is hte purpose to not slip? And something more comfortable to lie down on?

 

Looks like this: https://racedeck.com/racedeck-garage...color=graphite

 

1. No it does not, are you missing the styrofoam behind the dead pedal?
2. Swisstrax tiles - easy way to make the garage clean and tidy with many of benefits over epoxy flooring.

 

Replacing my old beat up dead pedal... man, that's been on my list for like 5 years, and I keep putting it off.

 

I'm almost as bad as you are, mine sat on the shelf for since December 2020. I will say the bottom clips were tough to break free from the carpet because the salt caused some oxidation on the metal clips.

67840-1NF3A Footrest Assembly
74985-1NF0A Plate-Carpet - Front (x6)

 

I had this thread bookmarked in my notes: https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...tallation.html

So for however long the dead pedal replacement project has been in the back of my head, it's been a $32 item all that time.

Except now that I look around for it, the damn plastic thing is north of $100. WTF?

 

In 2020 I paid $71.88 so get yours before it becomes unattainable or unavailable!

 

Does the dead pedal use clips or something? I was wondering how it is removed.

 

Peel back the carpet and remove these:
https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/pa...985-1nf0a.html

 

Re: the diff bushing... dropping the diff is relatively easy. Remove exhaust section that covers it, unplug sensors, unbolt everything and it comes down easily. Fluid won't come out unless you turn it upside down (through the vent tube) or you pull a stub axle.

The damn bushing... although I don't have a lift, I've got all the right tools for this and still ended up using the drill-the-rubber-cut-the-sleeve method, then lots of hammering with a cold chisel until the sleeve peeled away from the subframe and I could get it loose enough to move. It had rusted in there pretty badly. Went through with wire wheel on a drill then a sandpaper wheel to clean it up, and used plentiful silicone grease when putting the new (in my case, Whiteline) one in. My daughter came to check on me under the car and apparently learned some Air Force mechanical lingo in the process before I realized she was there.

IMHO, this was worse than the demon bolts on the header/cat flange. Those I went into the operation knowing I was breaking them off, and just had to get enough torque on them. However, end product = worth it.

 

Unwilling to part with $120 for a new dead pedal, I found one on eBay for $30 shipped.

Rolling the dice with ebay, LOL.

 

Thanks for the tips. I have called around to a lot of local shops but few understand what needs to be done. Did you use the Z1 diff bushing removal tool? Not effective? Also, is an alignment needed after?

 

I did my sunroof drain and installed some new Osram headlight bulbs my girlfriend got me for my birthday. Holy crap these headlight bulbs are insanely bright. I would 100% recommend them.

 

So bright that people are flashing you thinking you have high-beams on?

It does clearly say "off-road only".