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@BULL My front wheel bearings had no vertical play either and didn't make any noise I could hear over the tires. But when I changed them, the old bearings had a gritty feel when turning and one had a scrape noise. Car got more stable with new ones. 75,000 miles roughly
I agree on stability. Same gritty feeling when I took them off but nothing of the average signs of a failing bearing which was what threw me off for so long.
I hope I'm not celebrating prematurely after one day but optimistic about the feel, have not felt such a difference from my last brake jobs as this one.
Stop tech shims vs OEM Nissan Stop tech sanded flat Stop tech brand new heat spots from the rotor Checking for flatness of the spacer Done
I wanted to show for those doing brakes. If you ever develop noise on your brakes, I seriously suggest the OEM Nissan/Infiniti dual shim setup (only grease the outside not the part that meets the pad).
I also wanted to share the condition of brand new pads, right off the bat I noticed low spots on the flat parts of the new pads ( will lead to premature failures). 2 minutes of flat sanding they were great again.
For those doing brakes on 1 piece calipers, make sure you are cleaning every bit of greasy brake dust in the sliding canals of the caliper, many times grime will collect and pad wont sit properly.
Safe to say I went above and beyond what I could to eliminate issues.
I wanted to show for those doing brakes. If you ever develop noise on your brakes, I seriously suggest the OEM Nissan/Infiniti dual shim setup (only grease the outside not the part that meets the pad).
The tech that installed my Stoptech rotors/brakes didn't like the shims Centric provided, so he reused the ones from the OEM brakes, which he said were alot better. No noise so far.
I definitely didn’t notice any loss with the paper filters. Maybe a little better lower end? The trick with cleaning and reoiling the K&N filters is to allow them to dry for a full day in the sun after cleaning, then also allow them plenty of time to absorb the oil after reoiling. I laid them on a clean paper towel in the sun and made sure that I didn’t see any “pink leakage” on the towel before reinstalling.
I think I will be a day behind you on that one. Tuesday for the first snow for me. Are you in Cowtown?
Yeah in Calgary. Doing the wifes, father in law and nephews tomorrow on the last day before the cold shows up. Going this late in the year before winters/snow is pretty good I'd say.
HA - I thought you meant Vacaville, California (literally cow town in Spanish).
It dropped to 60F during the week last week here... homeless folks dying of exposure and the locals break out their goosedown coats.
For me, it was just a nice day where I didn't break a sweat just getting the mail LOL.
Ah to a Canadian it will be Calgary. We had a few hours of freezing rain and then has been snowing since about 3PM. 2"-3" so far and probably another 2"-4" by morning. Glad I have my winters on.
Knocked out the sunroof drain reroute project this weekend, more or less went on without a hitch. Huge thanks to the forum here, wouldn’t have been able to diagnose the leaky footwell issue or build the confidence to take on the project myself (and esp to ILM-NC-G37S and SkysG37 for helping me work up the courage).
I’ll admit, having the car water-tight again has renewed my interest in keeping the car longer (and likely adding some more mods by year’s end). Have test driven some B8.5 S4s and F30s over the last few months, almost certain to move on from the G. But then I realized the fact that with these Euro sport sedans of a certain age, I’m likely buying someone else’s problems too. And finding a low-miles, single-owner, stick-shift version of these cars is becoming very tough. Bought my G new as kind of a milestone achievement (first official promotion, back when I was a field engineer for an energy company). And since then, the car and I have been thru thick and thin together, and it’s been very good to me overall. So plenty of sentimental value and piece of mind baked into this car, was easy to forget when I was getting water all over my footwells. But now that should no longer be a distraction
A additional notes from my experience:
-you might surprise yourself that you’re still pretty nimble. Have been feeling my age these last few years, but had no problem throwing myself deep underneath the dash. Maybe the car was throwing me some good energy to help out
-need a 1/2” x 3/8” x 1/2” Tee to splice into the A/C condensation drain tube. Some instructions call for two 3/8” tees, but the A/C tube was 1/2” dia in my car
-Ive never once did any work on the interior of my car, and this took me about 2-hours overall, taking my time and rewatching several videos at each step of the project. I could do if all over again in 30 min now that I have the feel for removing interior trim components. It was also a beautiful day so had some beer breaks
-Rubber gloves when handling the A pillars, that tan cloth can easily stain / tough to get those out
-Green clip that attaches to A pillar, twisting this 90 degrees with needle nose pliers to detach the A pillar cover seemed way easier than prying the entire clip from the A pillar
-If you’ve had your Windshield replaced, you might need to cut at some excess adhesive that has glued the A pillar in place (only had this issue on one side, maybe the new windshield install got a little sloppy)
-No need to remove the Glove box , just need to remove the plastic under tray; to do so, three easy pops on the front, then slide out the hooks at the back. Once you have the tubing snaked down on the passenger side, I suggest putting the tray back on at that point so you know where that tube will land when everything is put back together
-Reassembly is pretty straight forward, everything pretty much snaps back into place
Last edited by STownSaint; Oct 30, 2023 at 11:22 AM.
Knocked out the sunroof drain reroute project this weekend, more or less went on without a hitch. Huge thanks to the forum here, wouldn’t have been able to diagnose the leaky footwell issue or build the confidence to take on the project myself (and esp to ILM-NC-G37S and SkysG37 for helping me work up the courage).
I’ll admit, having the car water-tight again has renewed my interest in keeping the car longer (and likely adding some more mods by year’s end). Have test driven some B8.5 S4s and F30s over the last few months, almost certain to move on from the G. But then I realized the fact that with these Euro sport sedans of a certain age, I’m likely buying someone else’s problems too. And finding a low-miles, single-owner, stick-shift version of these cars is becoming very tough. Bought my G new as kind of a milestone achievement (first official promotion, back when I was a field engineer for an energy company). And since then, the car and I have been thru thick and thin together, and it’s been very good to me overall. So plenty of sentimental value and peace of mind baked into this car, was easy to forget when I was getting water all over my footwells. But now that should no longer be a distraction
Great writeup, you inspired me to do the sunroof drain as well. I have been debating on switching to a Euro car as well, mainly because of the silly power potential with a few mods. That being said after having some first-hand experience with some German engineering I have steered away from going that route. My friend who purchased his G and inspired me to purchase one as well decided to switch over to a 2010 BMW 535i. He got a nice lower-mile one with 70k. In stock form the car was pretty fun and felt quick. (my G would pull away every time in a race) After the standard N54 power mods and 2 months of chasing misfires, boost leaks, vacuum leaks, and oil leaks, we finally had it running very well and very fast. After one day of that, a turbo seal blew.... Big OOF... Completely smoke-screened the road lol. Not an easy job or cheap. not to mention, this car is not fun to work on compared to the G lol. I'll take my G after that whole ordeal. Plus, vqs seem to be handling boost very well these days and beating cars that they shouldn't (while boosted)
Lost my job on Thursday and my 10 years of Diff Bushing luck ran out on Saturday. When it rains it pours right?
In addition to the diff bushings, I'm also planning on replacing the original rear sway bar bushings since that needs to be removed as well. Since I just performed a rear diff drain and fill with Amsoil Severe Gear, I'm hoping that the fluid doesn't need to be drained again.
Any of you have experience with the Z1 Diff Bushings and Removal tool?