Yeah, I think you need to do something like this to stop it from spinning

 

Any particular reason you painted the reflector that usually bubbles in front of the main projector?

 

Lol honestly I have no idea. I told them to black it out and add halos

 

Have you had to replace yours?

Really in a pickle now, not sure how far to take this. Do I go with only an OEM replacement and call it a day or do I do a HD or CMAK kit? Could have the fluid damaged my clutch? If so, should I just get the 2017+ OEM 370z upgraded exedy kit? I'd hate to replace the clutch if it only has 45k miles but I'd also hate to put the car together to find out the clutch is not working how it should.

Lot's of decisions to make in the coming days.

 

^^^
Yes. Mine blew out as I pulled into a shopping center, years ago when the car was still new-ish, and had 18K miles on it. Fortunately, the $1400 repair bill was waived while still under factory warranty, otherwise I absolutely would have gone aftermarket. Still worry about it from time to time, but supposedly the RJM pedal addresses this problem, and I went with the RJM pedal that same summer.

 

The headlights look great! Exact look my car has - who did you have paint them? When I sent my lights to ONEighty, they left that spot unpainted because historically it has always been magnified & bubbled in the sun.

 

It was ONEighty. Hopefully mine doesn't do that

 

Thanks man!

 

Fingers crossed they used heat resistant paint. If parking outdoors in sunlight, keep an eye on the areas below the lens of the projector. I just did my lights and I kept the reflector chrome, but stupid me didnt think to do anything about the turn signal light where I also added a dummy projector with a lens. Few small bubbles already, so I'm opening the lights again, swapping the lens for curved glass instead and repainting with header paint.

 

If it helps any, I was in a similar spot a couple of years ago and ended up with a new 370z MC, CMAK, and SBC stg 2 clutch. At the time I only needed a new CSC, but it was recommended that I also changed the MC (something about fluid contamination and seals). They had to drop the transmission for the CMAK, and since the clutch was a bit worn I just had them do everything.

I could barely afford it but I'd say it was definitely worth it. The thing revs so quickly now and the clutch grabs harder. I have no concerns about CSC or MC failing. The shifting is more predictable and smoother even with the stiffer clutch. You'll also save yourself on future labor with the MC and SC being more accessible. If you combine this setup with RJM, a weighted shift ****, and STS kit, ohh boy, you'll be in heaven.

Also, absolutely no clutch issues the past two years and I drive like I stole it.

 

Everyone in the FB groups swears by that CMAK kit.

 

You can also put a flat combo wrench on the shaft flats, or get a special socket for same (autozone etc have them as a kit). The drop combo is a SUPER HANDY tool - I actually should probably get a 17mm/19mm combo version. I've got 10/11 and 12/14.

 

Checking off 90k mile services.

Brake Fluid, Differential Oil, Air Filters & Drive Belt complete. Feeling a sense of accomplishment

Just a few more items to go and she'll be ready just as the odometer rolls up to 90k

 

Hello gang, new to this but have Infiniti for years, now I have 2010 g37x custom paint job 3 month ago, and a few other mods also did every maintenance you can think of today 💰🤦🏽‍♂️

 

Since you've removed the infiniti badges and trim the IPL looks out of place to me. Paint came out amazing and the visors + roof spoiler compliment it.