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cool man. How much was this and where would you reccomend purchase??
I haven't had it a long time but I've heard good things. Odyssey did an episode on Jay Leno's Garage (YT), they seem to know their stuff and be a leader for this type of battery. My initial impressions are great, and I bought their battery tender too.
Honestly, the demon bolts were the easiest of the three to get off! One of them broke off, and the other came right out. Granted, I've been soaking the bolts in PB Blaster consistently for the past 5 days or so. The bolt that you have to access somewhat through the wheel well (the one that's threaded to the stud on the cats) gave me the most trouble. Not a lot of room to work in there at all, but I finally got them out! Only took me about 30 minutes to get both cats off and the y-pipe.
My driver's side cat was rattling, so I took the opportunity to upgrade to some Z1 HFC's and a megan racing y pipe. I was going to go with a motordyne XYZ y pipe, but I got a killer deal on the megan pipe ($89 on Ebay) so I snagged it. I know it won't really give the best tone, but I'm still stock from the y-pipe back, so if I do choose to upgrade down the road, a better catback may solve any issues.
For those of you that are running z1 cats, did you get rasp upon install? I know they'll probably need a bit to break in, but is the rasp just due to the fact that they are a 100 cell vs. tighter cell of the OEM cats, combined with the different diameters between the Y-pipe and the midpipe/mufflers now?
Also, any recommendations for a decent midpipe that can be purchased on it's own for the sedan? I'm eying the Tanabe medallion axle back as I don't really want a ton more volume, just more sound, or a top speed Y-back if they're ever back in stock. I'm making the choice not to spend the extra money on a fast intentions or motordyne catback just for budget's sake. My little one takes more priority, so any upgrades to the G do get done on a strict budget.
Also, any suggestions on where you all have sold off your OEM cats? I know scrap prices on converters is pretty good, so any suggestions to reputable sites you've used? I'd put them for sale on here, but with the driver's side cat rattling, I don't really want someone to think they're buying a good cat to solve the same issue on their car.
I'm so proud of people who listen. If you wouldnt have done that you'd have been there longer.
Great job!
I'm definitely the type to research the heck out of a job before I attempt it lol. The fact that they're called "demon bolts" in the first place told me all I needed to know haha! This was much easier than my "weekend project" which was replacing the timing chain and guides on my wife's car. Points to me because it didn't grenade itself when I started it back up lol!
I'm definitely the type to research the heck out of a job before I attempt it lol. The fact that they're called "demon bolts" in the first place told me all I needed to know haha! This was much easier than my "weekend project" which was replacing the timing chain and guides on my wife's car. Points to me because it didn't grenade itself when I started it back up lol!
Rule one of dealing with Nissan/Infiniti is expect it to be tight or to break off.
Primed and ready for paint.
115 invested so far, probably gonna top out at 170ish after paint and 2k clear. I paint myself so that cut costs dramatically
I don't know too much about FEAL outside a few members rocking them. Generally considered good stuff?
While there arent many reviews here on the forum, I heard many great things about them from others, including@Mattlorentzoe . Since I'm AWD, my options are limited. I was told these dont have any rattles or clunks like BC for example, and with the swifts upgrade it maintains a nice ride quality.
Honestly, the demon bolts were the easiest of the three to get off! One of them broke off, and the other came right out. Granted, I've been soaking the bolts in PB Blaster consistently for the past 5 days or so. The bolt that you have to access somewhat through the wheel well (the one that's threaded to the stud on the cats) gave me the most trouble. Not a lot of room to work in there at all, but I finally got them out! Only took me about 30 minutes to get both cats off and the y-pipe.
My driver's side cat was rattling, so I took the opportunity to upgrade to some Z1 HFC's and a megan racing y pipe. I was going to go with a motordyne XYZ y pipe, but I got a killer deal on the megan pipe ($89 on Ebay) so I snagged it. I know it won't really give the best tone, but I'm still stock from the y-pipe back, so if I do choose to upgrade down the road, a better catback may solve any issues.
For those of you that are running z1 cats, did you get rasp upon install? I know they'll probably need a bit to break in, but is the rasp just due to the fact that they are a 100 cell vs. tighter cell of the OEM cats, combined with the different diameters between the Y-pipe and the midpipe/mufflers now?
Also, any recommendations for a decent midpipe that can be purchased on it's own for the sedan? I'm eying the Tanabe medallion axle back as I don't really want a ton more volume, just more sound, or a top speed Y-back if they're ever back in stock. I'm making the choice not to spend the extra money on a fast intentions or motordyne catback just for budget's sake. My little one takes more priority, so any upgrades to the G do get done on a strict budget.
Also, any suggestions on where you all have sold off your OEM cats? I know scrap prices on converters is pretty good, so any suggestions to reputable sites you've used? I'd put them for sale on here, but with the driver's side cat rattling, I don't really want someone to think they're buying a good cat to solve the same issue on their car.
Thanks guys!
Congrats on conquering the demon bolts!
I had the same issue with the Berk HFC's... too much unwanted rasp... even when I only had them paired with my Tanabe axle back. After trying many different exhaust set-ups I ended up removing the Berk HFC's and reinstalling the the OEM cats. Now I'm just running a Tanabe Y-Pipe and Tanabe axle back and am pretty happy with it. Could use a little more volume, but there is virtually no rasp or drone. If you don't want to induce anymore rasp or drone then I would suggest keeping the OEM mid-pipe and resonators and just adding a Tanabe Y-pipe along with the Tanabe Axle back.
