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There is a tuner in Bradenton.... so happy to hear this. I live there ! Thanks
Glad to help. I hear he's one of the better, trusty ones around. I've been screwed in the past up in Tampa when I had WRX by a company that was called Tampa bay tuned so I'm cautious about which of these "tuner shops" are actually reliable. I've only heard good things about Harry (I think that's his name) at Ztuner. My friend who told me about him owns an online magazine for Nissan called Downshift Magazine and has been in the z/tuner scene for a long time so I trust what he tells me.
I actually finished this a few months ago but wanted to share. It was pretty straight forward but I had to use the special "rusted rotor removal" technique found on YouTube. Worked like a charm.
Cutting the dust shield (red arrow) was a pain in the rear, only due to me buying very cheap, $3 tin snips from Harbor Freight. For anyone planning on doing the brake upgrade, get yourself some proper snips.
Also, the brake hardware kit I got from RockAuto for the rear has the same size pins as the front (blue arrow) and are too long. According to them, it is what they sell and the correct part. It works fine, so I'm good. Next time I do a pad change though, I may just get the kit from discountinfinitiparts and be done with it. Nitpicking? Yep... Oh yeah, one more thing. I also spayed the black hats with 5 coats of Duplicolor clear coat engine enamel, just to see how shiny and rust free I can keep them.
So the same as using the hand shifter without having to move your hands much lol. Im aware they're not fast by todays standards, Ive driven a few XS and S models. I still like them The ones in my dads Q50 felt a bit faster than the ones in my friends G, and since I have a Q50 transmission with q50 TCM, maybe it'l have the slightly faster shift times as well, we shall see.
Well I hope your experience is better than all the ones ive had/seen in the 7at's. Even the wifes new RS the shifting is lagged, but at least they got smart and placed the paddles on the steering column so that when your turning they are still readily available.
Originally Posted by QuinnDEskimo
DFS who did your tune in Tampa? I have a friend who has known the owner of Ztuner in Bradenton for almost 20 years and I will probably go there. I've only read/heard horror stories about Doug at ZFever so I'm a bit skeptical. I talked to both on the phone and the owner of Ztuner I felt much more comfortable with. Basically he didn't sound like a salesman trying to pitch me to come in and explained why Ecutek is a much better tuner vs what Doug said at ZFever saying that both softwares were exactly the same except Ecutek cost more.
So Harry is a phenomenal tuner for our platforms and as stated has decades worth of experience. Most of the Tampa guys drive down to him for tuning. He offers both Uprev and Ecutek.
STAY FARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR AWAY from Zfever and Doug! Guy is a joke and rip off. The persona who used to tune there was an independent tuner that they would call in. His name is Martin and he is now over at a different shop called Maximum Velocity Racing in St. Pete. Martin knows his stuff through and through but only offers Uprev. Just a little back ground about this shop and tuner, they work solely with race car driver Jeff Lepper who drives a 370Z in the SCCA, so again they know their stuff too. Cant go wrong with either and if you need additional info or questions, shoot me a PM
I replaced my rear rotors and brake pads and the next day my driver side rotor had these marks on it. I can feel the groves if I run my finger over them.
Here's how my passenger side rotor looks: Pretty smooth.
A few days late and my first post on this thread! I've owned 4 manual cars and this is my first short throw shifter. I'm in love, TWM Short Throw paired with a 350 gram Razo shift ****. I had planned to reuse the stock shift **** but destroyed it during removal.
STS is an awesome mod, isn't it? Personally, it's not so much the shorter throw that makes me happy, it's the solid engagement into each gear, and the total absence of any slop. It just makes shifting so much more precise and rewarding.
STS is an awesome mod, isn't it? Personally, it's not so much the shorter throw that makes me happy, it's the solid engagement into each gear, and the total absence of any slop. It just makes shifting so much more precise and rewarding.
Agreed, that mechanical clicky feel is addictive. I find myself finding excuses to drive the car...that'll wear off soon right?
I find myself finding excuses to drive the car...that'll wear off soon right?
Nope.
The RJM pedal becomes normal, as something you don't really think about. But the STS is something you'll appreciate for as long as you have the car. Every single time you row through the gears. Approaching two years with mine, and that's still how I feel about it.
I replaced my rear rotors and brake pads and the next day my driver side rotor had these marks on it. I can feel the groves if I run my finger over them.
Here's how my passenger side rotor looks: Pretty smooth.
Is this normal?
That definitely doesn't look like normal wear to me. My first thought would be that you might possibly have some foreign substance imbedded in the pad on that side. However, the grooves do not seem to be quite concentric, which doesn't really makes sense. But it couldn't hurt to remove the pad on that side and hit it with a bit of medium grit sandpaper (~180 grit) just in case there is some sort of contaminant on the surface that you can break through. Do the pads drag at all on that side when the brakes aren't applied? How's the inside of that rotor wearing?
A few days late and my first post on this thread! I've owned 4 manual cars and this is my first short throw shifter. I'm in love, TWM Short Throw paired with a 350 gram Razo shift ****. I had planned to reuse the stock shift **** but destroyed it during removal.
Installation was a success! After quite a few measurements & adjustments, I’m pretty happy with the look, but I am in dire need of an alignment and I’m sure I’ll need new tires before March. I am currently running 245/35/20 tires, but a local tire shop was kind enough to test fit a 255/35/20 for me. Being that my offset is so aggressive, I don’t think I’ll be able to go much wider than that. The 255 actually provided far more coverage than I expected, so I’ll be purchasing a set pretty soon. Until then (once the snow & ice melts) I’ll be getter her aligned so she will no longer feel as if she’s fish tailing over every imperfection in the street.
Last edited by Scarab Armor; Jan 21, 2018 at 11:42 AM.
Hey Calg37USMG How did you get such good numbers on the dyno? Do you have test pipes? I have been tempted to do stuff to my car, but in CA, a lot of it is difficult unless you pay some sketchy guy 100 to say he attached your car to a smog station.
I know, I should read, but I am lazy. I would imagine that WA would be almost as stringent on Smog tests as CA.
The ones in my dads Q50 felt a bit faster than the ones in my friends G, and since I have a Q50 transmission with q50 TCM, maybe it'l have the slightly faster shift times as well, we shall see.
That definitely doesn't look like normal wear to me. My first thought would be that you might possibly have some foreign substance imbedded in the pad on that side. However, the grooves do not seem to be quite concentric, which doesn't really makes sense. But it couldn't hurt to remove the pad on that side and hit it with a bit of medium grit sandpaper (~180 grit) just in case there is some sort of contaminant on the surface that you can break through. Do the pads drag at all on that side when the brakes aren't applied? How's the inside of that rotor wearing?
