Got an alignment today at Shuman's Auto Clinic in Tempe. "Joe" performed the alignment and was super friendly - even inviting me into the bay 3X to explain things, get my input, and keep me informed. $89.95 is what I paid.

Here are my numbers. Bear in mind this is WITH the SPC adjustable rear "front lower link", but I opted not to install the toe bolt kit just yet. Kind of wanted to wait and see how my numbers landed before I did the install - to make sure it's absolutely necessary.

Please advise.

 

Looks ok, although using the toe bolts will allow them to get your camber in spec, right now they have to get toe in spec since that's the worst of the two as far as tire wear. your camber is sacrificed in order to get that toe proper. With the toe bolts you'll be able to get everything in spec easily. You should get decent wear w/ that setup, so I wouldn't be too concerned. I have camber at -1.0 and my treadwear is perfect the entire width of the treadblock, and that's on summer tires.

Just keep an eye on that inner shoulder wear, and if it stays reasonable I'd just leave it as-is, but if you see quicker wear in that area then I'd get the toe bolts installed w/ a fresh alignment.

Also keep a close eye on the front tire wear as well, that higher camber may cause some increased inner shoulder wear too, especially if you are running summers.

 

Thanks Brad, this is helpful.

 

Got my windows tinted 25% on the front, 15% on the back

 

[yesterday] Interior and exterior LEDs and tail-as-turn mod from Diode Dynamics


I went with the natural white color (4000k) on the interior because I'm not into stark white lighting in my house or in my car. It looks a little whiter than I expected, but I'm generally happy because it was REALLY yellow before. (the pictures make it look warmer than I think it looks in person)

I went with 5000k for the reverse lights to match my fogs and headlights, but there wasn't an equivalent for the license plate without going with the way brighter option. I don't want my license plate to be like a beacon for lost ships in the night, so I figured I'd go dimmer and slightly off the shade of white and see what happens. They're only $8, so I'll be installing those this evening since I ran out of light. (ironic)

I've had the fogs for quite some time now, but let me just say the XML2 fog led's were a real boon to low beam brightness in general. Those things are BRIGHT. I know white isn't ideal for actual fog, but I don't drive in actual fog in the dark more than a handful of times per year, so whatevs. Plus, the car looks dramatically better at night with the lights on, which happens pretty frequently.

 

So after thinking it over, I decided to go with a different set of wheels...

TSW Bathurst 19x9 up front and 19x9.5 in the back. Got them installed last Wednesday.

 

Added a new splitter since my abs was ripping apart..and finally washing after a couple of weeks

 

Nice choice there, what wheel/tire specs are you running? Also that black & yellow plate looks just right back there

 

I did the whole diode replacement and have XML2's as well. Happy with it all, just need to install my reverse lights and i think all lights will have been replaced

 

I didn't dyno my car before or after the changes so I can't say from a numbers stand point, but there is definitely a noticeable difference in the mid range just after 3500rpm. After 6000ish rpm, it feels about the same as before. My car is stock except for the VLSD and while accelerating to pass a car from 35mph, both rear tires actually broke traction. My wife is really horrible at noticing changes in general and she could even tell there's a difference when I accelerate to pass people on the freeway if we're going around 45mph to pass someone. I've driven about 400 miles since the modification and the car is even quieter when driving normal. But at WOT, the sound is not necessarily louder than it was before, I would say the tone is nicer.

 

Was attempting to wrap up an SPC rear camber kit install, but the toe bolts are too short. Trying to resolve the issue with the reseller and SPC. Dead in the water for now. Grateful we have a second vehicle.

 

That's not exactly safe. No f'ing way I get under a car supported by just a jack, let alone scissor jacks.

Please tell me you've got proper jack stands under there and I'm just missing them.

 

There is a jack stand underneath the suspension member for a total of three points of support. My hydraulic jack has a leak, so it's benched for the time-being.

 

You should have proper jack stands at the pinch welds. That isn't safe.

 

Thanks for pointing that out. I will get jack stands in place of the scissor jacks before I go back under the car.