Interesting idea. I currently leverage a Cusco rear lower power brace (recommended by my suspension guy and CZP): https://conceptzperformance.com/cusc...-r_p_18873.php

I wonder if the diff brace can work in conjunction with this brace?

 

You have a side view? See the GK brace below.

If you do install a diff brace, make sure you change your diff fluid out before doing the brace

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...ml#post4314690

 

I wanted to get an understanding of the cost for when it does fail as I'm not keen on surprises. Per the pic below, the diff bushing is showing its age, but has not leaked yet.

 

The Bell diff brace brace doesn't appear to block the drain or fill plugs: https://www.bellraceworks.com/produc...ck-diff-covers

I will call CZP tomorrow to see if they are aware of anyone running both braces in the same application. The Diff Brace being mounted directly to the subframe would seem to introduce more NVH, but others here are saying it doesn't.

 

Zero NVH from the brace, the subframe is full of rubber bushings still

 

Google site search is failing me - anyone tried to add a keyed opener to the trunk?

 

You mind me asking why?

The oem system uses the trunk button + proximity signal sent to the BCM from the Antenna once the fob comes into reception.

 

None of which work when the battery is dead.

 

Got you. I've thought about retrofitting a Z trunk opening cable to mines and fish it under the bumper for these emergencies.

An actual keyed cylinder would be an over-engineered idea for the results you want.

 

I feel like there are keyed cables that were used by rat rod builders to put the key and opener on the frame rails… used with shaved doors.

 

Got you. This would be a more unique type of approach since it would require the sacrifice of one of your door locks.

You could see if you get lucky at a Yard and find a fob with a physical key and take the door cylinder with it.

Outside of this I'm unsure of the process of re-keying a brand new door lock cylinder.

 

Found this: https://www.johnnylawmotors.com/cata...nect-universal

 

Wouldn't it be easier to just splice a cable onto the (already present) emergency release cable in the deck lid, snake it through to a hidden location, and then terminate it with a pull ring? It is not as if this setup would get daily usage. Or, just pop the trunk through the rear seat? I know it s not the easiest to do in the sedan as it is on the Coupe, but still doable in a emergency.

I am not 100% certain I understand the need...

 

ILM: use case is car locked, battery dead, blank cover over drivers side door handle key hole.

the idea would be to run a cable from the existing emergency pull bell-crank out the bottom of the trunk somewhere to a keyed cable pull. So the car would still need a key to unlock, but I could pop the trunk to get the car open.

If nothing else, there’s leftover but connected 4 gauge back there from a previous owners Amps.

edit: hopefully this is mooted by the battery tender and/or 1x weekly driving but I’m tired of paying $60 for the keyhole cover every time my battery dies, since I can never get them off unbroken.

 

Understood. Extreme of worst-case scenarios, but I can appreciate the logic.

If it were me I would just splice a cable onto the existing emergency release handle and run that through to a hidden location. Whichever method or kit you choose, you will still have to utilize the emergency release in the deck lid.