bleed the clutch fluid and see where that gets you. Just like brake fluid, it gets hydrated and then becomes compressible.

 

I don't think it's normal for the clutch to engage 1 inch from the bottom of the floor. I bled the master - no change; it's takes 25-30lbs of force to push the shifter into gear when running. but it needed bleeding. I already ordered a master cylinder, and I'm going to adjust the current one all the way out to see if I get any more life out of the old master cylinder.

 

Sounds like mine did when the CSC was on it's last legs.

On another note, anyone have the combo of Hotchkis sways and 370Z springs (nismo or otherwise) on their sedan?

 

I have Eibach sways with the 370z nismo springs

 

Can you measure the bar end thickness? (where the end link goes through)?

 

Looking for some advice, please.

Last year, around September, my TPMS was going off, telling me one of my tires was low. It was my passenger side front tire, down to about 24 psi. I pumped it back up to 32 psi, and waited. Sure enough, it happened again a week later, and then a week later still. Eventually it got to where I was checking that tire's pressure every time I took the car out. It wasn't always low, but eventually it would be. Since I drive so rarely, I decided to let it be and figure out where the leak was over the winter.

Fast forward two months, my summer wheels and tires are in the house for Winter. This morning I checked the pressure on the bad tire, and it was spot on at 32 psi... which wasn't at all what I was expecting. Then I pumped it up to 45 psi, and used a soapy solution to try and find the leak, either in the tread, the bead or the valve. Didn't find anything. Again, not what I expected.

Could there be a puncture or compromised bead around the edge which only manifests when there's 1/4 of the car's weight bearing down?

 

I had the same issue on my Mazda 3.
It was a bad valve stem/core. When parked it would be find for weeks. Then go for a short drive and it would be down 2 psi overnight, sometimes.

I also did the soap/bubble test, but maybe the leak is so slow you can't see a tiny bubble, or my old eyes missed it
Replaced valve stem, and all good

 

Usually leaks like this end up being the surface of the wheel where the tire bead sits on. This surface is usually caked in tire lube and crap.
Sadly it will take the dismounting of the tire, scraping the wheel then installing the tire back on.

 

Rochester, there is also a sealant that you can apply to the bead to keep it from leaking once the tire is dismounted. It is a bit messy, but effective. I used it on the 1st set of winter rims/tires on my G that I previously used on my Evo and had seen a number of winters.

 

OK. Thanks, BULL. I'll plan on this before Springtime.

GTK. I'll make note of that and ask the shop when I take the wheel & tire in.

 

For sheets and giggles have them do the TPMS sensor packing - it's about $11 and involves a new valve stem nut and seal. Can be done without dismounting the tire or letting the air out. I've had several leaks in that area - and most cars use the same seal/packing.

 

So last time I changed the oil in my car was almost 2 years ago, 2/20/20.... But I've only driven 3,000 miles since then. Change it, or leave it? I imagine its probably fine.... Didn't realize how little I drive my car since WFH lol.

 

You're probably using synthetic, right? And you're probably fine.

However, the rule of thumb that I've always used is 6000 miles (synthetic) or every 12 months, whichever comes first. Certainly in the last few years, that 12 month gap comes way before the miles.

 

I'm sure you're fine for a while still, but at that point I'd probably switch it.

 

Yeah, next warm day I'll change it. Wonder if I should start to switch over to high mileage oil as well, 150k miles now. Crazy how little I drive it now, used to put almost 15-20k a year!