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Well currently looking at something for the wife since I've had nothing but BS with her 2007 Rav4. Worst year to own.
All of those 2.4 developed oil burning issues which I'm currently dealing with.
Blew front shocks at 120k (blown blown)
Developed a transmission front seal leak (trans has to come off)
The trans seal ate away at the LCA which will get replaced soon
Engine started pinging upon loads and a bit low in power
91/93 octane help slightly but comes back (intermittent)
I'm either thinking stretched chain or oil burn is what's causing it. Either way I've noticed many many Camrys, TCs, Rav4s, Solaras with the 2.4 in my city pinging up a storm.
The CX-5 is starting to look appeasing.
Get the bg dynamic engine cleaner & rinse oil. It will fix your oil burning problems. Oil rings on these engines are faulty.
I have some things in mind, I'll give BG a try. I'll also be popping the VC and inspect that chain as well.
Stupid engines cost more than a VHR
Not sure what you have in mind, but good flush is the only thing that works. Bg and dmso are proven things that work on i4 toyota engines with oil consumption.
Also I recommend soaking cylinders before flush. Hi-tech combustion chamber cleaning and piston ring decarbonization my Acura 😄
Not sure what you have in mind, but good flush is the only thing that works. Bg and dmso are proven things that work on i4 toyota engines with oil consumption.
Also I recommend soaking cylinders before flush.
Hi-tech combustion chamber cleaning and piston ring decarbonization my Acura 😄
I will take this recommendation, seen much great advice from you. Tell me more about your decarbonization setup in your J. Are you dripping cleaner into every cylinder to "pre-soak" then you do a vacuum feed with the engine on?
I will take this recommendation, seen much great advice from you. Tell me more about your decarbonization setup in your J. Are you dripping cleaner into every cylinder to "pre-soak" then you do a vacuum feed with the engine on?
Actually chemicals getting sucked from the machine to the engine. This setup comes with timer which connects to a starter. It bumps starter for a sec and all soaking material is send to the cylinders. It really works great for heads, valves and piston rings.
When procedure is completed, air connected to the machine and all chemicals are purged through the piston rings to the oil pan. This way engine starts easier when all is done.
That's one cool machine, I understand why it would do what it does since it would be the best/fastest way.
Burning the gunk is the only other way since vacuuming would be a waste of time in my opinion.
Is it pulling it's own branded formula or can I use BG, Seafoam, MOC products?
That's one cool machine, I understand why it would do what it does since it would be the best/fastest way.
Burning the gunk is the only other way since vacuuming would be a waste of time in my opinion.
Is it pulling it's own branded formula or can I use BG, Seafoam, MOC products?
Usually I use BG ISC, but this not suited for engines with painted oil pan. Since Toyota have painted one it will not work in your case. Paint will be stripped and it will clog oil pickup tube.
In your case i would soak it with Mopar combustion chamber cleaner. It works good for top head cleaning. It should also greatly reduce engine pinging.
Heat up engine, remove spark lugs, fill the combustion chamber with mopar. Put the plugs back, move crankshaft with wrench couple degrees back and forward every half hour or so for couple hours. You want that chemicals to get in to beween compression and oil rings...
leave it to soak over night. Remove spark plugs, suck out liquids from cylinders. Crank engine with spark plugs removed for a minute. Put the plugs back. Start the car.
Next step would be Bg dynamic engine restoration.
Also mmo or seafoam don't work.
Usually I use BG ISC, but this not suited for engines with painted oil pan. Since Toyota have painted one it will not work in your case. Paint will be stripped and it will clog oil pickup tube.
In your case i would soak it with Mopar combustion chamber cleaner. It works good for top head cleaning. It should also greatly reduce engine pinging.
Heat up engine, remove spark lugs, fill the combustion chamber with mopar. Put the plugs back, move crankshaft with wrench couple degrees back and forward every half hour or so for couple hours. You want that chemicals to get in to beween compression and oil rings...
leave it to soak over night. Remove spark plugs, suck out liquids from cylinders. Crank engine with spark plugs removed for a minute. Put the plugs back. Start the car.
Next step would be Bg dynamic engine restoration.
Also mmo or seafoam don't work.
Thank you for a new sense of direction, I'll start sourcing plugs, oil and chemicals and set the time to do so. Thanks again Dzionassi!
They are very rare. Hold onto it and take good care of it.
I've changed the common heater hose that breaks, got some 2‐1/4" true dual exhaust, invidia q300, and some high flow cats.
I got the car for a steal because the PO had a misfire that didn't go away with new coils and plugs
...
Compression was perfect. 3 Coils and plugs were installed on the wrong side by PO. He would have avoided this mistake by just getting 6. 6 New ones in to be sure, runs beautifully
I get to use this site again! car won't go into gear while engine is turning and car is stopped. I am hoping my throwout bearing is fine but it sounds like it's broken based on this criterion. car goes ever so slowly forward when trying to force into gear; as if the clutch is only 95% released - but no dice.
yuck
I get to use this site again! car won't go into gear while engine is turning and car is stopped. I am hoping my throwout bearing is fine but it sounds like it's broken based on this criterion. car goes ever so slowly forward when trying to force into gear; as if the clutch is only 95% released - but no dice.
yuck
Ouch. That’s tough, but a sad reality with these cars.
got under the car with my cell phone and recorded the slave moving. Looks bone dry and I see the spider getting pressed.
got under the pedals and there's slime on the clutch master shaft, but nothing substantial. And my clutch fluid hasn't gone down.
I'm at a loss.