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Does it bother anyone else that the steering wheels track control is different from the dash track controls? I guess I should stick to just using one, but it annoys me that on the wheel, up advances the track and on the dash, down advances the track.
What year is your car? My 2008 controls exactly the same from the console controls as it does from the steering wheel controls. Down on both advances the track (moves down the list on the screen) and Up on both reverses back on track (moves up the list on the screen).
I've read that you want half the nut thickness of bolt protruding past the top of the nut. I wouldn't feel safe with the bolt not protruding at all.
Hmmm. I've never heard this approach applied to lug-nut applications even after 8 years of selling wheels and tires.
I'm not saying this approach would be wrong for all applications, as you definitely want more thread contact on race cars, track cars, and other high torque applications. But to follow this rule of thumb using closed cap style lug-nuts like the OEM Infiniti lug-nuts would be impossible... If the stud was long enough to protrude most open end lug-nuts then it would surely bottom out in a closed end lug-nut well before being fully seated/tightened.
Good to know! I'll check it out and see. Thank you for the info. I'll probably go ahead and order studs just to be safe
Feel free to send me a PM if you want any advice on what rear studs to get. If you go too long in the rear then the studs won't fit without completely disassembling the rear axle/hub assembly. I actually had to return the ARP studs (shown in the above picture) that I purchased for the rear, as they were WAY too long (about 66mm not including the round tip if I recall correctly) and I didn't feel like cutting down 10 brand new studs. I ended up using stud sets from Ichiba (both front and rear) since they offer 40mm, 45mm, and 50mm extended studs for our applications.
What year is your car? My 2008 controls exactly the same from the console controls as it does from the steering wheel controls. Down on both advances the track (moves down the list on the screen) and Up on both reverses back on track (moves up the list on the screen).
I have a 2013. It's strange that they would have changed it. Anybody else notice the same?
nothing too agressive, just enough to make the non s bumper look more sporty.
Did you cut and mold that yourself or is this one that's adapted from a different application?