G37 Sedan

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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 11:52 AM
  #7651  
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Originally Posted by xpcgamer
Well just cleaned my Throttle bodies. I didn't rotate the flaps. I don't think its needed. I hit it with CRC and what ever was there flaked off. I cleaned inside the plenum a bit also. Engine is SMOOTH as butter .

And to think I actually made an appointment for Friday to have the dealer do this for 150+ tax.
Good for you. You can paypal me a commission of that savings for the peer pressure assistance.

I love the feeling of clean tbodies on a car which they were previously neglected. Acceleration feels much smoother.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 12:40 PM
  #7652  
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Originally Posted by Rochester

It's not that bad, Mike. Knowing you having met you twice, and you knowing me the same, let me just say if I can do it, then... well. LOL
LOL well said but I think it applies better to the fact that you actually pulled the trigger on those coilovers, I wouldn't install them myself, not experienced enough with coilovers at all, so I'd leave the adjustments to someone else
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 04:03 PM
  #7653  
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I apologize in advance but I'm gonna ask a questions here. I have asked 3 questions in their perspective threads and have gotten no response at all.
What is a decent amount of camber for the rear tires? I am running OEM Vert wheels with 275/35 out back. I am about 2.7 and 2.6. I do not think I can be at 0 due to the wheels having a small amount of poke when at stock height. I was thinking of maybe 2 degree's maybe?
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 04:14 PM
  #7654  
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From: GA
Originally Posted by xpcgamer
I apologize in advance but I'm gonna ask a questions here. I have asked 3 questions in their perspective threads and have gotten no response at all.
What is a decent amount of camber for the rear tires? I am running OEM Vert wheels with 275/35 out back. I am about 2.7 and 2.6. I do not think I can be at 0 due to the wheels having a small amount of poke when at stock height. I was thinking of maybe 2 degree's maybe?
My FSM lists a min to max range of -1.75 to -0.25 degrees. I would say the most accepted value on the boards for dropped Gs is -2.00. I won't go farther out of range than that value. You'll find a multitude of members that don't worry about it, though.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 04:22 PM
  #7655  
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Originally Posted by nelledge
You'll find a multitude of members that don't worry about it, though.


Sedan Chat Thread-axqu9bh.jpg
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 04:23 PM
  #7656  
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Originally Posted by nelledge
My FSM lists a min to max range of -1.75 to -0.25 degrees. I would say the most accepted value on the boards for dropped Gs is -2.00. I won't go farther out of range than that value. You'll find a multitude of members that don't worry about it, though.
^^^
This is good advice.

My rears are intentionally configured at -2.2* and -2.3*, because that was my comfort zone between fitment and functionality.

For a few weeks there before the camber kit, I had one rear wheel at -2.7*. It looked positively ridiculous (to me). You'd be amazed how you can tell the difference in looks just a few tenths of a degree one way or the other. The more you eyeball this consideration, the more discerning your judgement will become.

Last edited by Rochester; Sep 13, 2015 at 04:36 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 04:39 PM
  #7657  
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From: GA
Originally Posted by MaQG37


You just opened the wrong can. Post a photo of your fitment, sir.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 04:53 PM
  #7658  
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Originally Posted by nelledge
You just opened the wrong can. Post a photo of your fitment, sir.
You're not going to get all the bishes, unless you're hella-flush.

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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 05:16 PM
  #7659  
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^^^^^^^^^

My god that is HILARIOUS!!!! LMFAOROTF!!! Thank you. I was at a tedious step in my front lip painting and repair. Just what I needed to wrap it up.

Sean
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 06:27 PM
  #7660  
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This one always makes me smile, too.

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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 09:13 PM
  #7661  
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I lost the bolt that originally goes here because of a lack of a magnetic 10mm socket. I replaced it with something similar, but not exact. It didn't tighten 100% so I tried to remove it. It's stuck at this length and will not come out. When I attach a socket to it, it just keeps spinning in place without actually coming out. Any suggestions?
Sedan Chat Thread-f0bgjvy.jpg

I'm trying to buy another replacement and don't see it here in this diagram. Am I missing something? This is the 10'+ sport end.
Sedan Chat Thread-y3eyifo.gif

2013 Infiniti G37 Parts - OEM Online Parts

All this trouble for just removing the grille! I've removed the front bumper 3x already and those times were a breeze. I hate how tight that space is on this car.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 09:34 PM
  #7662  
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Originally Posted by MaQG37
I lost the bolt that originally goes here because of a lack of a magnetic 10mm socket. I replaced it with something similar, but not exact. It didn't tighten 100% so I tried to remove it. It's stuck at this length and will not come out. When I attach a socket to it, it just keeps spinning in place without actually coming out. Any suggestions?


I'm trying to buy another replacement and don't see it here in this diagram. Am I missing something? This is the 10'+ sport end.


2013 Infiniti G37 Parts - OEM Online Parts

All this trouble for just removing the grille I've removed the front bumper 3x already and those times were a breeze. I hate how tight that space is on this car.
I had the same issue with that bolt not coming out, at this point you'll have to get a new bumper stiffener bracket that this bolt goes into, the thread probably got messed up along with that piece of stiffener breaking , hence why the bolt won't come out, I do not know the part number for that bolt, but what I did was after I removed it, I took it to the dealership and bought a few extra, and I bought new bumper stiffeners off of eBay because I got a pair for 55 I think meanwhile, one normally goes for about 40-45 on infiniti parts sites.

Note that the stiffeners for 07-08 sedans are the same, just different color(black not white like originally on 10+ sedans) so that being said they will work too, and can be found cheaper on eBay
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 09:59 PM
  #7663  
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One way to remove that bolt is use a crescent wrench loosely clamped to the threaded part of the bolt to have force against the bolt head, then simultaneously use a box end or open end wrench to turn the bolt head while you're applying force against the bolt head w/ the adjustable wrench. Should get it out that way.

Then try the next size larger bolt thread for a new bolt, probably work a couple times until you have to replace the whole plastic thread block.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 07:07 PM
  #7664  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
+shipping, maybe? Either way, great price on a quality product.
$31.86 for shipping, so not horrid. And no tax. So $581.86 total. I can deal.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 08:57 PM
  #7665  
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How much do the "long tube" Takeda intakes affect noise while driving? As in, is the incremental noise very noticeable?

Considering this as a sound/appearance mod. Thanks
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