Aktif8 here is a quote from that FS thread you are Referring to.

Kinetix HFC

Category:*Engine - Exhaust
Price:*$300
Private or Vendor Listing:*Private Listing
Part fits:*2010+ G37 Coupe, 2010+ G37 Sedan, 2008-2009 G37 Coupe, 2008-2009 G37 Sedan
Location (State/Prov
Kinetix HFC

Category:*Engine - Exhaust
Price:*$300
Private or Vendor Listing:*Private Listing
Part fits:*2010+ G37 Coupe, 2010+ G37 Sedan, 2008-2009 G37 Coupe, 2008-2009 G37 Sedan
Location (State/Prov):*Can-BC
Item Condition:*Used

Kinetix*HFC for sale!!!! Almost brand new! Asking $300

Installed on July 20th, 2012 and approximately used for 500km's (3XX miles). Don't like the sound/rasp that it produces with my Fujitsubo Catback, planning to go with a different HFC. My friend also has the same*Kinetix*HFC on his sedan and sounds amazing with his Kakimoto exhaust system with absolutely no rasp. It really depends on what exhaust system you use with this HFC. I was unlucky.

So a little reading comprehension does go a long way as does leaving out other facts. No rasp on his friends sedan and he goes on to say that they sound amazing. Enough said

 

No manufacturing company is without a problem product here or there. Lets just call it "different strokes for different folks."

 

This is so true. I've experienced it in my industry many times.

 

+1 On that..... I'll be unbiased in my review of the kinetix HFC's with my exhaust setup. Hopefully it'll sound as nice as some of the sound clips I've been listening to.

 

The "proper" spacing for a FTSB is to install it loosely, then insert two stacked credit cards between it and your engine cover before tightening it. I did it, not sure the reasoning, but I haven't seen any rubbing on my engine cover.

 

I noticed that my Cusco bar has been rubbing even more after I had my coilovers installed. I knew I should have removed that "sound deadening" padding last year but since I didn't do any research on it I took peoples word for it that it was there to protect the hood/paint from the heat of the engine. Looks like I'll be removing sometime today when I get a chance and I am going to have to get the Cusco bar polished up again.

 

Sounds good, thank you. I had read that but also heard of some rubbing issues despite having done it that way.

I'll have to play around with it a bit, would,like to avoid any scratches if possible.

 

Bota37 man Santa was good to you this Christmas...Awesome!

I think that's the one I was looking at too at Harbor Freight Tools. Speaking of which I picked up this set of lug nut sockets that you should get to protect your wheels when removing them.

7 Piece SAE / Metric 1/2" Lug Nut Impact Sockets

 

I should do a sound clip. Been putting it off since I was hoping Santa would be dropping off a GoPro Don't forget to spray down the bolts the night before so you don't have a hard time removing them. Unless of course you have an impact wrench?

 

Even if he does, spraying the bolts with some rust penetrant can help.

 

Here's the one I got from Harbor Freight, it's great if you're dropped, just takes a little lift on the side w/ your OEM jack to have enough room to slide under the motor cradle. It's 2 ton and usually can find a coupon in auto mags for $79. It's got a 2 piston lift at the handle so it's pretty stout. Not as pretty as Botas but very functional
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-h...ump-68050.html

 

Luckily I only had to break 2 bolts off. Everything else just needed a shot of PB blaster and a good rip on a torque bar.

PB blaster or some other penetrant is definitely necessary. I'd recommend it even if you think the bolts will back out easily.

 

Those sockets will have to be on my to get list. They look bad@ss.

I had to test fit it this morning. It has plenty of clearance but I'm gonna have to YouTube to figure out placement of the jack. I've always used the OEM jack which is a total deterent for anyone who does their own work on there car. Lol. I'm just happy to have finally picked one up.

 

I do have an impact wrench with the assorted list of extensions and impact socket
(14mm). Also have the Panther **** (PB) ready. I've been looking (studying the set-up really) and think I won't need to remove the Intakes at all. There is just enough space to get a breaker bar into it going through the fender walls if I remove the wheels first. Then again, I may just go with the top down method. I don't want to snap off the stud on either side of the exhaust manifold.

Anybody know what size wrench to use on the OEM O2 sensors?

 

Exhaust sound clip / video would be great, Bro. I've been trying to figure out how to post videos / pics onto the forum.