I have seen some of the other companies that provide extenders in which they had to drill a hole in the rear to allow the extender came through the rear seatbelt slots.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...coilovers.html

 

I need to adjust my rears stiffer because I'm at only 2/3 of a turn from full soft on the rears and they need more, 2 turns from soft on the front. But...I'm thinking I will wait until I get the Swift's installed. Lego, did you have install camber kits? I can't remember. The fronts feel great but they really do stiffen up a fair amount when it gets cold. I tend to like it better the way the car handles when it's cold.



John, on our Koni yellows, they adjust from the side with an allen wrench on the rears. Basically you have a collar that has holes in it (for the allen wrench) and they have a slot that has about 120° of travel with which to move the allen wrench in the collar once it's stuck in the hole. It's quite a bit of a hassle getting a full turn. Having the extenders would be great but on these Koni's, I don't know how the extenders would connect though.

 

Well gents, in the next two weeks (when I might be able to find a day when it's not b@lls cold out), I'm going to take one for the team and test out some new pads on my rotors.

I had Racing Brake ET500 pads which had gradual initial bite with increasingly (exponential curve) ferocious stopping power with additional pressure on the pedal.

Product description: [The ET Series compounds provide excellent modulation, consistent friction and torque output, and can be run from ambient temperature, even during cold winter mornings.

ET300: Performance Street - Delivers braking performance beyond stock pads, yet with minimal dust and no squeaking

ET500: Aggressive Street - Provides additional stopping power over ET300; low dust and little to no squeaking.

ET800: Advanced Street - For very adventurous street driving. Not for use on the track, as high temperatures will greatly accelerate pad wear. For track racing, use our XT-Series brake pads.]

The reason for the swap is that my rotors have some pad build up on them giving some really slight but very annoying brake judder at first application of the brakes.

So I'm going to resurface them and put on some more aggressive pads, specifically the XT910 from RB. I'll probably have my fluid swapped out as well because it's 2.5 years old. I'll report back with a full review and comparisons over the completely stock setup vs. RB Rotors + ET500 vs. RB Rotors + XT910.

Product description: [The XT Series compounds were developed to handle the toughest track braking conditions. All of our XT Series pads deliver consistent brake torque, have excellent modulation and are highly resistant to wear. The pads are also friendly to rotors, and produce brake dust that is easy to clean.

XT970: Track dedicated/No compromise - for the dedicated track car.

XT960: Track duty with adequate street capability- Good for HPDE and the Open Track Driver who drives to the track.

XT910: Street pad with light track ability - Good for a new HPDE Driver and spirited driving.]

I realize I'm going to be in for slightly more noise and some dust. For Reference, the ET500's produce very little dust.

 

FYI--I'm at 2 sweeps from full soft in the rear and 3 turns in the front. I might back the fronts off 1/2 turn. Pot holes hit hard.

No camber kit. My rears were just barely out of spec. I don't remember off hand, but I think max spec is like 1.5* and I was 1.8* or something like that. As long as I get 10-12K out of my rear tires I'll be happy.

 

They say the dumbest questions are those you don't ask, so here I go...

Browsing Amazon: EBC Redstuff brake pad, front, part number DP31807C. Normal price $131, marked down to $25. Surely this isn't ONE single pad, right? Both fronts (kit) seem go to for $90-$125, so his normal $131 seems legit as a kit, just wanting to make sure I'm not buying a single pad for $25. Shipping weight is 3.8 POUNDS, item is 3.8 OUNCES. Amazon itself is the seller, so no luck emailing them for confirmation. My low mileage 2013 doesn't need brakes, but if I could have a set for cheap waiting on a shelf in the garage....

 

Right, right. I forgot... this sounds like a familiar conversation.

Suck, man. IDK what you do, except not buy Koni's with adjustable damping. Either that, or you never make adjustments, or only do it once... maybe twice, and be done with it.

 

usually pads are sold as sets, IE front (complete) and rear(complete).

 

Yes, but their use of the singular tense is confusing. Brake "Pad" not "pads"

Also, shows weight as 3.8oz. How heavy are they?

 

Sad part is with the RSRs, not sure about other coilovers, you have to take the whole shock out to adjust the dampening, which is why I'm strongly considering the adapter. Turn it full soft for road trips and float down the road like an old Caddy, and turn it up a little bit when zipping around town.

 

Finally something good to say about my exhaust setup. That sound. Vid below.

 

So that's the FI sedan cats? Unresonated? Any rasp on your setup?

 

You can't get non adjustable Koni's for this application.

I think he's been trying to figure out how to adjust them for a while......

Just drop the shock. Its 3 nuts, 2 of which are like 10mm with 15 ft-lbs of torque. I wonder if this is an issue on the 370Z, or if it's just on the G since ultimately they were not designed for our car. If you mounted the window facing backwards your screwed.....

 

Yup, g37Sedan with FI unresonated cats. There is rasp on hard acceleration initially.

 

Anyone have any experience with stainless lines? Trying to decide whether to go stainless or just find some different color lines for this combo can. I need to get some of the parts on the car and make some room.

 

I removed the big relay box that was on the front driver's side. There was only one relay in it.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...-overkill.html