Sedan Chat Thread
Hey all, our owners guide says 80ft.lbs. as the torque spec for our lugs. Does anybody else think that is kinda "weak sauce". I'm more inclined to think that 100ft.lbs. would be the norm. What are you guys running for your wheels?
Is my torque wrench calibrated?

Do I really know what I'm doing?
Last edited by Rochester; Aug 27, 2014 at 11:09 AM.
^ I have always done 80ft.lbs and haven't had any issues either; except for the few times I have let some tire shop guys use an impact gun and they overtorqued the lugs to 100ft.lbs or more - that didn't do anything but make it difficult to remove the lugs.
I do 80-85 ft-lbs depending on how I choose to reason my way through my thought process that day. A star pattern will help ensure the wheel is sitting flat on the hub (or rotor hat), do it first by hand and then by a torque wrench.
Rochester, you're doing it just fine. If you're worried about your torque wrench being out of calibration, then you can:
a) get it calibrated (probably expensive and will be as much as the torque wrench itself unless its a snap-on, mac, etc.)
b) use it as is and be happy that at all lug nuts were torqued to the same value. Even torque distribution on all lugs is rather important.
Rochester, you're doing it just fine. If you're worried about your torque wrench being out of calibration, then you can:
a) get it calibrated (probably expensive and will be as much as the torque wrench itself unless its a snap-on, mac, etc.)
b) use it as is and be happy that at all lug nuts were torqued to the same value. Even torque distribution on all lugs is rather important.
I've been putting the lugs on @ 85 just because. I'm glad to have a little assurance that it is just me that seems to think that the torque spec is a little one the low side.
Rochester: do you remember what the hub centric ring sizes you bought were? I'm going to replace my plastic crap with aluminum as well.
Rochester: do you remember what the hub centric ring sizes you bought were? I'm going to replace my plastic crap with aluminum as well.
I've been putting the lugs on @ 85 just because. I'm glad to have a little assurance that it is just me that seems to think that the torque spec is a little one the low side.
Rochester: do you remember what the hub centric ring sizes you bought were? I'm going to replace my plastic crap with aluminum as well.
Rochester: do you remember what the hub centric ring sizes you bought were? I'm going to replace my plastic crap with aluminum as well.
Yikes! That was $18 when I bought them.
$7.69 shipped is a heck of a deal.
I too use 85ft lbs. if you move it up to 100 you may have a difficult time trying to get them off if you get a flat and aren't home and have to use the bar out of the trunk. Usually I hand start them in a star pattern then tighten them down with a breaker bar, also in a star pattern, lower the car to the ground and then torque them down a couple of times, again in a star pattern.
85 ft lbs for me too, when I had spacers I torqued them only to 80 ft. lbs since the instructions specifically called for that, and also the spacer nuts are pretty soft so I was a bit paranoid about screwing them up going any tighter.
off topic question:
I read a while back that ECUTEK has cam timing, while UPREV does not. However, I found that UPREV can adjust cam timing now.
So, are basically both programs able to provide the same hp/tq gains?
I read a while back that ECUTEK has cam timing, while UPREV does not. However, I found that UPREV can adjust cam timing now.
So, are basically both programs able to provide the same hp/tq gains?
This has been a long beaten topic. Here's the gist. ECUTEK has more parameters that it can change in the ECU. Uprev has more functionality for a DD be being able to select preprogrammed maps. From what I have seen ECUTECK is great for a track car but Uprev is better for a DD. As for HP/TQ...... The tuner is the one that determines how much the engine can produce. From what I understand, both platforms optimize mods nicely. At the end of the day your intake and exhaust mods will only net so much after a tune, doesn't matter which you use. I beat this choice around for months before going with Uprev.
This has been a long beaten topic. Here's the gist. ECUTEK has more parameters that it can change in the ECU. Uprev has more functionality for a DD be being able to select preprogrammed maps. From what I have seen ECUTECK is great for a track car but Uprev is better for a DD. As for HP/TQ...... The tuner is the one that determines how much the engine can produce. From what I understand, both platforms optimize mods nicely. At the end of the day your intake and exhaust mods will only net so much after a tune, doesn't matter which you use. I beat this choice around for months before going with Uprev.
I see you have a lot of great mods..... I have a feeling you will be VERY happy with your results. Uprev or bust, bro.








