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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 08:34 AM
  #3781  
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warped ideas
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From: Pembroke Pines, Florida
Hey all, our owners guide says 80ft.lbs. as the torque spec for our lugs. Does anybody else think that is kinda "weak sauce". I'm more inclined to think that 100ft.lbs. would be the norm. What are you guys running for your wheels?
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 08:52 AM
  #3782  
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
Hey all, our owners guide says 80ft.lbs. as the torque spec for our lugs. Does anybody else think that is kinda "weak sauce". I'm more inclined to think that 100ft.lbs. would be the norm. What are you guys running for your wheels?
I set the bar at 85 foot-pounds. Nuts are mounted in a star-pattern sequence, first by hand, then with the bar, and then again harder into the bar until it clicks. Then I set the car back down on the ground and tug into the nuts one last time for another few clicks. Always in a star-pattern. Sometimes I check the nuts after a few days... truth is I usually forget to. But I've never in my life had a loose lug nut, so knock on wood there.

Is my torque wrench calibrated?

Do I really know what I'm doing?

Last edited by Rochester; Aug 27, 2014 at 11:09 AM.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 09:22 AM
  #3783  
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^ I have always done 80ft.lbs and haven't had any issues either; except for the few times I have let some tire shop guys use an impact gun and they overtorqued the lugs to 100ft.lbs or more - that didn't do anything but make it difficult to remove the lugs.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 10:54 AM
  #3784  
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I do 80-85 ft-lbs depending on how I choose to reason my way through my thought process that day. A star pattern will help ensure the wheel is sitting flat on the hub (or rotor hat), do it first by hand and then by a torque wrench.

Rochester, you're doing it just fine. If you're worried about your torque wrench being out of calibration, then you can:
a) get it calibrated (probably expensive and will be as much as the torque wrench itself unless its a snap-on, mac, etc.)
b) use it as is and be happy that at all lug nuts were torqued to the same value. Even torque distribution on all lugs is rather important.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 05:36 PM
  #3785  
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warped ideas
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From: Pembroke Pines, Florida
I've been putting the lugs on @ 85 just because. I'm glad to have a little assurance that it is just me that seems to think that the torque spec is a little one the low side.

Rochester: do you remember what the hub centric ring sizes you bought were? I'm going to replace my plastic crap with aluminum as well.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 05:45 PM
  #3786  
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
I've been putting the lugs on @ 85 just because. I'm glad to have a little assurance that it is just me that seems to think that the torque spec is a little one the low side.

Rochester: do you remember what the hub centric ring sizes you bought were? I'm going to replace my plastic crap with aluminum as well.
Amazon.com: 4 pieces - Hubcentric Rings - 73.1mm OD to 66.1mm ID - Aluminum Hubrings: Automotive Amazon.com: 4 pieces - Hubcentric Rings - 73.1mm OD to 66.1mm ID - Aluminum Hubrings: Automotive


Yikes! That was $18 when I bought them. $7.69 shipped is a heck of a deal.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 06:00 PM
  #3787  
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warped ideas
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From: Pembroke Pines, Florida
You're the man. Thanks a million, brother. Bought and paid for.

Last edited by warped ideas; Aug 27, 2014 at 07:16 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 07:22 PM
  #3788  
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
Hey all, our owners guide says 80ft.lbs. as the torque spec for our lugs. Does anybody else think that is kinda "weak sauce". I'm more inclined to think that 100ft.lbs. would be the norm. What are you guys running for your wheels?
I too use 85ft lbs. if you move it up to 100 you may have a difficult time trying to get them off if you get a flat and aren't home and have to use the bar out of the trunk. Usually I hand start them in a star pattern then tighten them down with a breaker bar, also in a star pattern, lower the car to the ground and then torque them down a couple of times, again in a star pattern.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 07:25 PM
  #3789  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Is my torque wrench calibrated?
It comes pre calibrated, but it'll start to loose it's calibration over time if you use it as a breaker bar. From what I've been told you never use it to break a bolt or nut and you always reset it to 0 when you put are finished.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 07:30 PM
  #3790  
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85 ft lbs for me too, when I had spacers I torqued them only to 80 ft. lbs since the instructions specifically called for that, and also the spacer nuts are pretty soft so I was a bit paranoid about screwing them up going any tighter.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 08:22 PM
  #3791  
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
You're the man. Thanks a million, brother. Bought and paid for.
Happy to help.

So now I have to decide whether to bank this good deed for a future event, or cash it in now for a bit of mean-spirited fun somewhere else.

Karma, man. Mwua-ha-ha-ha.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 09:42 PM
  #3792  
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off topic question:

I read a while back that ECUTEK has cam timing, while UPREV does not. However, I found that UPREV can adjust cam timing now.

So, are basically both programs able to provide the same hp/tq gains?
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 10:33 PM
  #3793  
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warped ideas
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From: Pembroke Pines, Florida
Originally Posted by alfredo24pr
off topic question:

I read a while back that ECUTEK has cam timing, while UPREV does not. However, I found that UPREV can adjust cam timing now.

So, are basically both programs able to provide the same hp/tq gains?
This has been a long beaten topic. Here's the gist. ECUTEK has more parameters that it can change in the ECU. Uprev has more functionality for a DD be being able to select preprogrammed maps. From what I have seen ECUTECK is great for a track car but Uprev is better for a DD. As for HP/TQ...... The tuner is the one that determines how much the engine can produce. From what I understand, both platforms optimize mods nicely. At the end of the day your intake and exhaust mods will only net so much after a tune, doesn't matter which you use. I beat this choice around for months before going with Uprev.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 11:22 PM
  #3794  
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
This has been a long beaten topic. Here's the gist. ECUTEK has more parameters that it can change in the ECU. Uprev has more functionality for a DD be being able to select preprogrammed maps. From what I have seen ECUTECK is great for a track car but Uprev is better for a DD. As for HP/TQ...... The tuner is the one that determines how much the engine can produce. From what I understand, both platforms optimize mods nicely. At the end of the day your intake and exhaust mods will only net so much after a tune, doesn't matter which you use. I beat this choice around for months before going with Uprev.
Im still scheduled to tune with Uprev, but this confirms my initial thought that it all depends on the tuner. Hope I don't feel robbed after getting tuned.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 11:45 PM
  #3795  
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From: Pembroke Pines, Florida
Originally Posted by alfredo24pr
Im still scheduled to tune with Uprev, but this confirms my initial thought that it all depends on the tuner. Hope I don't feel robbed after getting tuned.
I see you have a lot of great mods..... I have a feeling you will be VERY happy with your results. Uprev or bust, bro.
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