Awesome, and it's no rush Chris. This ain't happening anytime soon either,I got something else cooking for tomorrow, but maybe in couple weeks... And speaking of Adam, I tried to msg him today on fb, but seems like his account was deleted or something... I really got confused with that... Anyway if you know anything, text it to me.

 

I found it, their price is $412 now though. I haven't spoken to Adam lately but Krystian usually responds. I'm sure they would price match at $412 shipped. I also found a coupon for JSC for $10 off and free shipping so $402 but still not as cheap as I had hoped.

 

What is your removal strategy? It sounds like the stock shift **** gets a large amount of loctite and is a bitch to take off.

I'm going to order a **** from Lathe Werks soon, I figure have a buddy hold the shift lever with a section of hose and vice-grips.

Do you want to try and get your stock **** off intact? Or are you going to just jump to ripping it off and killing it?

 

I bought a really strong strap wrench from LOWES last week, just for the occasion. Tried it out, and it will very nicely wrap around the **** while a buddy of mine secures the shaft under the boot with a 24" channel-lock wrench. The intent is to not damage the OEM ****, because I might want to use it during winter.

Wish me luck.

 

Good luck.

I'm saving the 24" channel-locks for the shift ****. Because IDGAF if I kill the stock ****. I'm going to go all in

 

Nice to hear of the top-notch service, too bad there was an issue but should be back on track in a couple days.


Be sure to post a before & after, could be quite a contrast

 

Anyone want to chime in with an opinion to that? What size wheel spacers for a RWD Sedan, lowered on Swifts, with staggered OEM duckfeet back on the car wearing snow tires?

I'm torn between front/rear combinations: 15/15, 20/15 and 20/20

 

On my winter set (OEM anniversary) I have 20/20 running 225/245.

 

For the last month or so I've been researching wheels and asking questions, as I wanted to go 19" with a 275/35 in the rear. Mostly because it looks aggressive, and also because of the increase in grip.

The selection in style, offset, finish etc is dizzying. I'm terrible at visualizing stuff like wheel fitment, finish, construction, etc., let alone factoring in offset and not wanting to go through the process of DIY'ing springs with my stock dampers to tuck the wheels in...... I ultimately decided to do something different.....

I'm going to keep my duck feet and replace my Potenza S-04s with PSS in the next month or so. The tires still have some meat left, enough to get me to "winter"

So PSS, Eibach swaybars, and....Koni yellows and Swift springs....

Not many people are running Konis on a sedan, and I'm sure the consensus is I should go coilover, but having past experiences with Koni and looking at my goals, its the best choice for me.

I've always felt a little softness in the stock S suspension. A little bit of float, especially at low speeds. You feel it when you shift, that little movement of the car. That's not to say the G37S RWD doesn't have a great suspension, because I think it does, it could just use a little more. Let's hope this buttons my G down like our old E90 sport. Or maybe more.

KONI struts/shocks for my Eibach springs! - G35Driver

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...s-today-3.html

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...et-koni-2.html

I'll probably end up tossing on some spacers to stay flush

 

I recommend going with 20/20

 

Good luck! The shop that loosened mine up did that exactly with a rag.

If it gets really hot out, try to turn the **** around. It will help when you actually need to take it off later. Mine came off in 1 min.

 

Sounds like a sensible plan, look forward to your impressions.

 

So I've been having a squeaking noise coming from the right rear of my car ever since I had my exhaust installed. So I decided to crawl under the car to try to see if maybe a bolt was loose. My thought was that it was the slip fit on the mid pip and tail pipe. I checked it and it was pretty tight, I actually couldn't get it any tighter, so I started checking the rest of the rear section of the exhaust... I remember that my mechanics helper had installed the hanger at the very end of the tail pipe on backwards. So I wanted to make sure that the nuts were tightened. I ended up breaking a stud for that hanger. It took absolutely no effort at all when it broke, so I assume that it was broken when my mechanic put it back on the second time.

Anyone know how difficult it is to replace a stud specifically the one pictured.

 

My fast intentions exhaust should get here midweek and I hope to do the install within a few days. Hopefully I'm happy with how loud its going to be but coming from a mustang 5.0 with a roush exhaust something tells me it won't be quite up to snuff. LOL. Either way, I'll be a doing a review so stay tuned.

 

Tough act to follow. As nice as the VQ is, it ain't that. Never will be.