Admittedly our switchbacks are close to a 6000K color, so they won't match OEM HID's perfectly, but either way it's a big improvement over the factory amber. Really modernizes the front end IMO.

One of my favorite lighting upgrades

Nick C.

 

I couldn't agree more - I love how it looks now (minus the Amber city LED I have yet to replace.

I used 50W 6ohm resistors all the way around. After doing some reading, I noticed some folks did 50w 3ohm resistors all the way around. Nick, what's your recommendation?

 

We recommend the 6ohm 50 watt resistors. It's fairly universal, but their size and heat sink does a great job dissipating heat

As long as you don't try to use 1 big resistor instead of two 6ohm 50 watts you'll be ok. Some companies will try to sell you on using 1 big one, but this centralizes the heat to one resistor rather than spreading it out.

That's going to increase the chances of melting something or worse

Use SMD style LEDs to match the switchbacks also

Here's a G37 member's comparison photos (Big thanks to this member)



Nick C.

 

What bulbs are those? I have LED fog light bulbs from you and mine don't look like that
That's the look I wanted to match my 8k HIDS from you. I have a 09 Sedan

 

These are SMD 194 sized bulbs, and again, they will be a 6K color

Still an improvement over the ugly factory bulbs, but they aren't a perfect match with 8000K

If you need more information about them, give us a call: (314) 205-3033

I don't want to hijack the chat thread

Nick C.

 

Thats what I am using for each LED (1 for each switchback, two up front, and 1 for each rear turn signal LED, two in back = total of four 6ohm 50watt resistors).

Seems like everything is normal - I left the turn signals on for 2 minutes and the resistors warmed up quite a bit. I protected the trunk liner with some aluminum ducting tape that will help whick away the heat from directly touching the trunk liner itself. Fronts were a piece of cake and out of the way completely.

 

Pulled into KOHLS today, to do some shopping before vacation. Clutch pedal was feeling weird. Drove around the parking lot to get a feel for what was going on, and the pedal started fading fast. Then it just dropped right to the floor.

Seriously. Clutch pedal just dumped, limp like my d1ck watching sumo wrestling.

Coasted into a parking spot. Called the Infiniti dealership, and they sent out a flat-bed. I suspect the clutch cylinder blew, but IDK really. All I know is I got real, real lucky that I was in a parking lot, and not on the highway.

Or somewhere in the Pennsylvania woods on a weekend.

 

Same damn thing happened to me in my Acura. Was exiting the parking garage at work and the clutch just dumped. Acura replaced a clutch cylinder and gave me a brand new clutch - which was above and beyond what they needed to provide.

 

Also I'm putting this out there for everyone. My buddy's performance shop has a full set of Akebono calipers for sale. They are being rebuilt and will be powder coated any color of your choice. I don't have a price for them yet but that can easily be acquired.

So, If you're looking for a new set of calipers, here is your ticket. Plus, you'll be able to get them coated any color of your choice. PM me If you're interested and I'll put you in touch with the shop.

 

Isn't this a somewhat common problem on these cars?

Cue dueling banjos

 

Man... that sucks... glad you were able to pull into a parking spot safely. Are you going to have it taken to Circle Infiniti and request loaner car #10?

 

Clutch failure is endemic on the G/Z cars? What?

Good old #10.

They didn't have any loaners for an unscheduled service. But they did give me a ride home. Service is pretty good there, but it's also obvious that out of the 9 brands they sell, the upscale ones get preference (Infiniti, Lexus, Maserati).

 

I dunno about endemic, but I've seen enough posted about it to say the clutch slave cylinder isn't an uncommon issue. Good summary post:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...ound-info.html

 

My clutch stuck to the floor about a year ago. After attempting to fix myself by draining, replacing fluid, then bleeding (used a generic DOT4 fluid) it lost pressure again within a half hour.

The dealership fixed it under warranty. They told me that the fluid had boiled and that this was a known issue due to routing of the clutch fluid line near the exhaust or some such.

The fix, and it has fixed it, was for the dealer to use a special Nissan Racing DOT4 fluid that would resist the heat -- ie not boil and aerate.

No problems with the clutch since.

However, I did start noticing a grind going into 5th gear a while back.

I brought the car to the dealer again last Tuesday. They called me on Wednesday and said "you need a new transmission".

So, I got a new trans, a new slave cylinder, and a new throwout bearing installed at no cost.

The new trans shifts like butter compared to the last one.

Anybody who is under warranty and is getting any sort of grinding while shifting should report that immediately IMO and get it resolved before the warranty expires.

The service adviser told me that when they drained the MT fluid from my old trans, that it had a lot of metal shavings in it. I think the 5th gear syncro was starting to disintegrate.

Heads' up MT drivers!

 

Welcome to the forum. And you're scaring me, man.

I have 9 months left on my 4/40 warranty, but 32 months left on my bank note.