Clutch Slave Cylinder / CSC - background info
Hey guys,
This post goes out to anyone new to Gs who may be interested in this info and to all the veterans who are tired of repeated questions by people who don't use the search function
I've been researching the G37 as my next car and have been looking up "common problems" ... and happened on the CSC issue. I found info here and there about it but not one place, so thought a post referencing it all could be helpful.
As I understand it:
- If you can't get the car into gear (clutch pedal in, but nothing doing) it is probably the CSC, and not an issue with the clutch itself:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...w-mileage.html
- However, sometimes a bad CSC will also cause clutch slippage and smell, I think because it's not fully disengaging - so it's causing the clutch to "ride":
https://www.myg37.com/forums/2945232-post34.html
- It's a good idea to keep the fluid changed regularly (see post #8 for video DIY) because of contamination that occurs:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-regulary.html
- Additionally, your clutch fluid level dropping is a sign of leakage, probably by the CSC inside the trans and leaking fluid (I read that somewhere but sorry I can't find the post to reference)
- There was at least one instance of an owner being told by the dealer that the CSC didn't need to be replaced, but instead a different component close to the CSC (which still required dropping the trans). The CSC still should be replaced, as specified in the FSM (Factory Service Manual) whenever the tranny is dropped:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3341364-post106.html
- A good point by BB about the fact that you can still shift gears without a working CSC if necessary:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3430782-post147.html
Now for how it's handled by warranty. The CSC is covered on factory bumper / bumper warranty (4yr/60k), not as part of the powertrain (go figure) (6yr/70k), but is covered by the Infiniti Elite Extended Warranty if you have it (terribly confusing I know):
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3590182-post13.html
If you have to pay out of pocket, I saw dealer prices around $2k+, I believe that was for replacing the clutch & flywheel while you're in there along with the CSC.
Recommended options were to replace with an aftermarket (upgraded) clutch and flywheel (didn't search enough to find a consensus on which one) and to replace the OEM CSC with a Z Speed performance unit (and I'd say use a non-dealer mechanic while you're at it):
ZSpeed Performance Replacment HD Clutch CSC Heavy Duty Slave Cylinder Kit
Lastly, another thread on the subject of who has / has not had to replace the CSC:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/251027-who-has-not-had-to-replace-their-csc-on-6mt.html
That's it for now. I hope that's helpful, and forum veterans feel free to correct me where I'm wrong.
This post goes out to anyone new to Gs who may be interested in this info and to all the veterans who are tired of repeated questions by people who don't use the search function
I've been researching the G37 as my next car and have been looking up "common problems" ... and happened on the CSC issue. I found info here and there about it but not one place, so thought a post referencing it all could be helpful.
As I understand it:
- If you can't get the car into gear (clutch pedal in, but nothing doing) it is probably the CSC, and not an issue with the clutch itself:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...w-mileage.html
- However, sometimes a bad CSC will also cause clutch slippage and smell, I think because it's not fully disengaging - so it's causing the clutch to "ride":
https://www.myg37.com/forums/2945232-post34.html
- It's a good idea to keep the fluid changed regularly (see post #8 for video DIY) because of contamination that occurs:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-regulary.html
- Additionally, your clutch fluid level dropping is a sign of leakage, probably by the CSC inside the trans and leaking fluid (I read that somewhere but sorry I can't find the post to reference)
- There was at least one instance of an owner being told by the dealer that the CSC didn't need to be replaced, but instead a different component close to the CSC (which still required dropping the trans). The CSC still should be replaced, as specified in the FSM (Factory Service Manual) whenever the tranny is dropped:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3341364-post106.html
- A good point by BB about the fact that you can still shift gears without a working CSC if necessary:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3430782-post147.html
Now for how it's handled by warranty. The CSC is covered on factory bumper / bumper warranty (4yr/60k), not as part of the powertrain (go figure) (6yr/70k), but is covered by the Infiniti Elite Extended Warranty if you have it (terribly confusing I know):
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3590182-post13.html
If you have to pay out of pocket, I saw dealer prices around $2k+, I believe that was for replacing the clutch & flywheel while you're in there along with the CSC.
Recommended options were to replace with an aftermarket (upgraded) clutch and flywheel (didn't search enough to find a consensus on which one) and to replace the OEM CSC with a Z Speed performance unit (and I'd say use a non-dealer mechanic while you're at it):
ZSpeed Performance Replacment HD Clutch CSC Heavy Duty Slave Cylinder Kit
Lastly, another thread on the subject of who has / has not had to replace the CSC:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/251027-who-has-not-had-to-replace-their-csc-on-6mt.html
That's it for now. I hope that's helpful, and forum veterans feel free to correct me where I'm wrong.
Replace Clutch Fluid - Modified Ranger Method - Corvette Forum
The syringe method. Thought I would share might give it a try tomorrow (since my jack and tools are not at my apartment) afternoon unless somebody tells me its a horrible idea and stops me.
actually after doing a quick search


Black Betty also talks about the "turkey baster" method... same thing but the post above uses a medical syringe. https://www.myg37.com/forums/general...ing-fluid.html
still would like to share and add.
^^^ I like that idea you posted from the vette forum. I know when I get a G the clutch fluid is one of the first things I'd do - that seem like a better way than pumping the pedal and bleeding from the bottom. I'd like to hear how it turns out, whichever you try!
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Finally getting some time to do this...
Jsolo, I saw your reply in :
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-regulary.html
and was wondering what fluid you used to change your clutch fluid? I have been reading all over people using Motul (i'm assuming anything but 5)
I know Infiniti uses DOT 3 so pretty much any brake fluid works correct?
anybody have recommendations?
Jsolo, I saw your reply in :https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-regulary.html
and was wondering what fluid you used to change your clutch fluid? I have been reading all over people using Motul (i'm assuming anything but 5)
I know Infiniti uses DOT 3 so pretty much any brake fluid works correct?
anybody have recommendations?
no , there is no warning. you shift and your foot just stays on the floor and your done for the day. The stock SC is a piece of sh* and should be replaced asap. I know of 5 guys in my area that failed and had to shell out for the upgrade just like me.
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 593
From: People's Republic of IL
Finally getting some time to do this...
Jsolo, I saw your reply in :
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-regulary.html
and was wondering what fluid you used to change your clutch fluid? I have been reading all over people using Motul (i'm assuming anything but 5)
I know Infiniti uses DOT 3 so pretty much any brake fluid works correct?
anybody have recommendations?
Jsolo, I saw your reply in :https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-regulary.html
and was wondering what fluid you used to change your clutch fluid? I have been reading all over people using Motul (i'm assuming anything but 5)
I know Infiniti uses DOT 3 so pretty much any brake fluid works correct?
anybody have recommendations?
Excellent post, OP. Subbed for further research.
My CSC failed on my yesterday, and is in the shop as I type. Very scary situation, and very disconcerting for a 3-year old 6MT with less than 20K miles.
Turns out I have 9 months left on my 4/40 warranty. (Phew!)
My CSC failed on my yesterday, and is in the shop as I type. Very scary situation, and very disconcerting for a 3-year old 6MT with less than 20K miles.
Turns out I have 9 months left on my 4/40 warranty. (Phew!)
Mine began acting horribly at 8,000 miles and then it finally gave out at 12,000 miles. The CSC itself is very poorly designed and it was defective from day 1.
I haven't actually done mine yet. Will be doing it this spring. I'll likely go with whatever DOT4 I can find on store shelves. I don't track the car nor do I drive it hard. The comments were made after crawling under the car to see just how accessible that bleeder screw was.
Anyone have any advice on what to do here to get this fixed?

I also sheared my bleeder on my stock CSC. You'll have to use a drill out/extractor to remove what is left. Presoaking with some penetrating fluid would be wise.
I didn't bother doing this, I figured I'd get my dealer to fix it during the next oil change. The CSC failed before my next oil change.
I didn't bother doing this, I figured I'd get my dealer to fix it during the next oil change. The CSC failed before my next oil change.








