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Clutch Slave Cylinder / CSC - background info

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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 02:12 PM
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Exclamation Clutch Slave Cylinder / CSC - background info

Hey guys,
This post goes out to anyone new to Gs who may be interested in this info and to all the veterans who are tired of repeated questions by people who don't use the search function
I've been researching the G37 as my next car and have been looking up "common problems" ... and happened on the CSC issue. I found info here and there about it but not one place, so thought a post referencing it all could be helpful.
As I understand it:
- If you can't get the car into gear (clutch pedal in, but nothing doing) it is probably the CSC, and not an issue with the clutch itself:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...w-mileage.html

- However, sometimes a bad CSC will also cause clutch slippage and smell, I think because it's not fully disengaging - so it's causing the clutch to "ride":

https://www.myg37.com/forums/2945232-post34.html

- It's a good idea to keep the fluid changed regularly (see post #8 for video DIY) because of contamination that occurs:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-regulary.html

- Additionally, your clutch fluid level dropping is a sign of leakage, probably by the CSC inside the trans and leaking fluid (I read that somewhere but sorry I can't find the post to reference)

- There was at least one instance of an owner being told by the dealer that the CSC didn't need to be replaced, but instead a different component close to the CSC (which still required dropping the trans). The CSC still should be replaced, as specified in the FSM (Factory Service Manual) whenever the tranny is dropped:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/3341364-post106.html

- A good point by BB about the fact that you can still shift gears without a working CSC if necessary:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/3430782-post147.html

Now for how it's handled by warranty. The CSC is covered on factory bumper / bumper warranty (4yr/60k), not as part of the powertrain (go figure) (6yr/70k), but is covered by the Infiniti Elite Extended Warranty if you have it (terribly confusing I know):

https://www.myg37.com/forums/3590182-post13.html

If you have to pay out of pocket, I saw dealer prices around $2k+, I believe that was for replacing the clutch & flywheel while you're in there along with the CSC.

Recommended options were to replace with an aftermarket (upgraded) clutch and flywheel (didn't search enough to find a consensus on which one) and to replace the OEM CSC with a Z Speed performance unit (and I'd say use a non-dealer mechanic while you're at it):

ZSpeed Performance Replacment HD Clutch CSC Heavy Duty Slave Cylinder Kit

Lastly, another thread on the subject of who has / has not had to replace the CSC:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/251027-who-has-not-had-to-replace-their-csc-on-6mt.html

That's it for now. I hope that's helpful, and forum veterans feel free to correct me where I'm wrong.
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 03:15 PM
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Great post!
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lfe1313
Great post!
Thanks, I thought I'd try and break the newbie trend and actually contribute ...
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FriedLumpia
Thanks, I thought I'd try and break the newbie trend and actually contribute ...
Thanks! not to jack your thread or anything but after reading this i started looking around to see how other forums discuss changing out there clutch fluid and came across this:

Replace Clutch Fluid - Modified Ranger Method - Corvette Forum

The syringe method. Thought I would share might give it a try tomorrow (since my jack and tools are not at my apartment) afternoon unless somebody tells me its a horrible idea and stops me.

actually after doing a quick search Black Betty also talks about the "turkey baster" method... same thing but the post above uses a medical syringe.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/general...ing-fluid.html

still would like to share and add.
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 02:24 PM
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^^^ I like that idea you posted from the vette forum. I know when I get a G the clutch fluid is one of the first things I'd do - that seem like a better way than pumping the pedal and bleeding from the bottom. I'd like to hear how it turns out, whichever you try!
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 02:34 PM
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I had 2 stock fail on me, had to go with the Zspeed, costs about 1k each time you have to change it.
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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Great summary!
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by christian655321
I had 2 stock fail on me, had to go with the Zspeed, costs about 1k each time you have to change it.
Wow, two went bad? Was there any kind of warning?
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jsolo
Great summary!
Finally getting some time to do this... Jsolo, I saw your reply in :

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-regulary.html

and was wondering what fluid you used to change your clutch fluid? I have been reading all over people using Motul (i'm assuming anything but 5)

I know Infiniti uses DOT 3 so pretty much any brake fluid works correct?

anybody have recommendations?
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by FriedLumpia
Wow, two went bad? Was there any kind of warning?
no , there is no warning. you shift and your foot just stays on the floor and your done for the day. The stock SC is a piece of sh* and should be replaced asap. I know of 5 guys in my area that failed and had to shell out for the upgrade just like me.
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by obg376mt
Finally getting some time to do this... Jsolo, I saw your reply in :

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-regulary.html

and was wondering what fluid you used to change your clutch fluid? I have been reading all over people using Motul (i'm assuming anything but 5)

I know Infiniti uses DOT 3 so pretty much any brake fluid works correct?

anybody have recommendations?
I haven't actually done mine yet. Will be doing it this spring. I'll likely go with whatever DOT4 I can find on store shelves. I don't track the car nor do I drive it hard. The comments were made after crawling under the car to see just how accessible that bleeder screw was.
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Old May 22, 2014 | 07:24 AM
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Excellent post, OP. Subbed for further research.

My CSC failed on my yesterday, and is in the shop as I type. Very scary situation, and very disconcerting for a 3-year old 6MT with less than 20K miles.

Turns out I have 9 months left on my 4/40 warranty. (Phew!)
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Old May 22, 2014 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Excellent post, OP. Subbed for further research.

My CSC failed on my yesterday, and is in the shop as I type. Very scary situation, and very disconcerting for a 3-year old 6MT with less than 20K miles.

Turns out I have 9 months left on my 4/40 warranty. (Phew!)
Mine began acting horribly at 8,000 miles and then it finally gave out at 12,000 miles. The CSC itself is very poorly designed and it was defective from day 1.
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jsolo
I haven't actually done mine yet. Will be doing it this spring. I'll likely go with whatever DOT4 I can find on store shelves. I don't track the car nor do I drive it hard. The comments were made after crawling under the car to see just how accessible that bleeder screw was.
So I had the same idea... I crawled under the car to see how accessible the bleeder screw was and I found this nightmare (pictures below). It seems like someone over-tightened the bleeder screw and sheered it off! I've had the car for about 6 months now and figured it was time to change the fluid. Guess I'll have to try the turkey baster method for now...

Anyone have any advice on what to do here to get this fixed?

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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 07:46 PM
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I also sheared my bleeder on my stock CSC. You'll have to use a drill out/extractor to remove what is left. Presoaking with some penetrating fluid would be wise.

I didn't bother doing this, I figured I'd get my dealer to fix it during the next oil change. The CSC failed before my next oil change.
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