I have a 2012 g37s coupe 6mt rwd and I want to lower it to remove wheel gap and maintain ride quality. I don’t have a high budget as a high schooler, but won’t sacrifice reliability or quality as I’d rather just not lower the car. I am currently looking at getting a set of KYB struts and shocks or Tokico blues along with some lowering springs either from Swift, H&R, or eibach. I’m wondering what else I’ll need in terms of supporting mods for adjusting alignment and preventing tire wear (ie camber arms, toe arms, etc).

 

Adjustable Upper Control Arms (I use Mevotech, which are repackaged SPCs)
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...trol-arms.html

adjustable rear camber arms with toe bolts
I use SPC, but I bought these before I realized Moog and Mevotech rebox and sell the same for less: https://www.z1motorsports.com/contro...rm-p-3980.html

Find someone that can do a performance alignment and use the Coupe's alignment specs with the more aggressive camber. Make sure they are OCD about Toe as it needs to be as close to 0 as possible to minimize tire wear.

 

okay. So for sure get the FUCA, rear camber arms and toe bolts. I’m deciding between h&r, swift, or eibach springs. Are the H&Rs going to ride a lot worse than the others? I’m going to hold out for a bit on new shocks/struts as the factory sport shocks/struts only have 30k miles. Probably get koni yellows when needed.

 

30K is nothing for the Sport Shocks/Struts (Tokico, very high quality). I'm at 79K and mine still feel new, zero leaks.

You may want to consider coilovers instead of springs? Sell me your OEM stuts/shocks once I determine they will fit on the sedan (Couple's may be shorter) as replacements no longer exist.

 

I wanted coilovers originally but based on what I’ve heard about price and quality id have to get it bc br or comparable and that’s 1200 minimum. And I would still need FUCA, rear camber arms, and toe as I would still be a lot lower. So overall just a lot more expensive. Honestly I would probably look to upgrade to the koni yellows sooner than later, I’ll try to remember to let you know about my shocks/struts when the time comes. Also, I’ve seen on some forums that people run lowering springs without supporting mods for alignment other than for bolts and they are still able to stay in spec. Is it an option and worth it to run without for say less than 5k miles before upgrading supporting parts or should I just save and get everything at once?

 

I read those posts as well. Believed them until I trashed a set of $250 tires because of toe/camber issues. Switched from "good enough" to correct and couldn't be happier. Even my gas mileage improved.

 

Ah so worth the wait in the long run. Thanks

 

lowering the correct way and bringing everything back into factory specs literally transforms your car.

 

sounds great. How is the nose dive while breaking after getting everything dialed in? I’ve heard it helps a lot and that sounds like it would be huge.

 

Not sure I understand the question. Bracing is another element once you complete the lowering exercise. Front and Rear Power Braces, Front Strut tower brace.

Driving a lowered car is a lifestyle choice and isn't for everyone. It does make you way more alert regarding what's happening beneath you while driving. Seams in the road and potholes take on a whole new meaning.

 

Not sure if OP ever conquered his lowering goals but you can get coilovers like maxspeeding rods, godspeed an or tein to get it lowered and handling better. While those aren’t the best option money can buy, it’ll give the car the stance you want and they aren’t a horrible brand just not where the BC’s stand performance/quality wise. I’ve never had experience with maxspeeding rods and yes they’ve increased in quality but if you were to get any of the 3 brands I mentioned I’d go with teins. They seem to me to have better quality than the other 2 and people like them from what I hear and read. When I get to that point I want to try the tein advance z then get front and rear sway bars to stiffen everything up. Do what you want OP (not knocking BC or other brands) but you don’t always have to get the hype

 

Tein has a US based HQ in LA and will answer the phone if you call (number is on their website). They’d get my vote as well.

 

I considered cheaper coil overs but had my mind changed by what I’ve read and heard, but could still consider them. Would cheaper coils handle better than tein s tech springs with the sport shocks/struts with low mileage? If I were to go with cheaper coils I’d likely look at teins or possibly maxpeedingrods as I’ve heard decent things about them on the z chassis. I still am going to need to spend around $700 on fixing alignment after dropping the car, so would it be worth spending extra on coilovers? Also for budget coils do you recommend true or divorced setups? I was leaning toward swapping to true to avoid having to shave the subframe, although toe arms are more expensive than toe bolts. I’m a high schooler so trying to budget as much as possible while doing everything right and keeping everything reliable.

 

Swift springs are just a little stiffer than the factory springs and the Tokico dampers on the sport model are best in class. Find a good price online, then have Nick at Concept Z price match: https://conceptzperformance.com/help...YU-8iTyGUGImDn

You can wait a few months between lowering then adding adjustable UCAs and Rear Camber arms and toe bolts (I waiting for over a year). Check Moog and Mevotech for both as they repackage SPC products and cost a little less.