evil-G-nius

iTrader: (1)

So the Optima does fit! I have one in my garage that will need to be charged eventually...its dead as **** right now. But if my stock battery ever takes a crap i'll charge that puppy up and toss it in. nice.

ajmr2, the color match looks good. Not sure why the factory didn't go that route

bikezilla

iTrader: (2)

Wow, $300 for a battery and Jumpers.
I had no idea the Optima is so expensive.
What's the diff btwn the Yellow, Red and a standard batt?

bikezilla

iTrader: (2)

Today after work, I trimmed the rear fender tabs and raised up the four corners to take out the bit of settling that's occurred since I installed my coilovers. Plus a smidge.

And added +5 clicks to each damper.

And ordered interior ambient footwell lighting.

kennyz424

iTrader: (147)

Standard battery is just rhay standard... but some last more than others.

The yellow top is a deep cycle battery as well as a starting battery.

The reason its good for audio and accessories is that the battery is made to be drained and then refilled numerous times. It holds the charge for a very long time and has no issues when starting.

The yellow top is perfect if you play your set up with the car OFF for long periods of time.

Redtop is a starting battery, its made to be stored for long times without having any issues. Its made to have a high CCA in all temps. The redtop also has a large storage capacity and will work for audio setups also.

It was like $275 at auto zone plus an $18 refund for giving them my old battery. I actually feel a huge difference with my grounding kit hooked up to this battery though for sure. Lag was always the same with it hooked up to my old battery until the yellow top. Now I feel I stillen grounding kit finally makes sense and took away any lag with the 7at transmission.

louith

iTrader: (2)

Had to jump start the G yesterday.. battery too low to start lol.. havent driven in a while..

bikezilla

iTrader: (2)

I truly dig the double bumper and splitter on the Nissan.

louith

iTrader: (2)

lol.. yeah man.. modding the xterra to fit the g37 bumper.. hahahah

louith

iTrader: (2)

shipped out my radiator cover for hydrodipping.

JUMBO PALACE

iTrader: (1)

Sprayed some WD40 in the door hinge. I've been dealing with this really weird creak coming from the front driver side for a long time. I've been thinking it's the suspension but I saw a post somewhere on here that made me suspicious of the door. Still leaning towards a ball joint or bushing of some kind though. I might try to get a video so some of the wrench experts can help me out.

JUMBO PALACE

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to be that guy and not search but is adding spacers complicated in any way or are their trade offs in handling/safety etc? The wheels I wanted were only available with a 38mm offset and it's pretty conservative for a coupe.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Spacers are fine for daily drivers, if you plan on tracking there may be restrictions though. Bolt on spacers (from a quality brand) are good for wider applications 20mm or more, and for less spacing the extended stud sets would be the way to go.

Changing out the studs is much more labor, so keep than in mind when you budget for these.

Always insist on hubcentric spacers, this will lessen the chance of high speed vibrations.

If you go w/ bolt on spacers be sure to only use 6pt sockets, torque to 80 ft lbs and check torque after a hundred miles & every oil change.

And for any spacer be sure to wire brush the mounting surfaced prior to install.

saywat?

iTrader: (3)

get a can of lithium grease spray that stuff is great

saywat?

iTrader: (3)

if ur rotor center is painted i probably wouldnt take a wire brush to it. i didnt fk that

bikezilla

iTrader: (2)

This is my first journey into space-ers.

If low and flush is a goal, Be sure to check out Kenny's thread on fender liner challenges.

Here's what I did.

Grab a long strip of tape with a quarter wrapped at the end.
hang it off your fender directly over the hub center
measure from the face of the tire to the face edge of the tape. Directly under the fender.

Drop ~2-3mm off that value.

Do it 10 more times for each wheel. (okay I was a bit obsessive there)

That is more or less the thickness you will need for your spacer.
If you go over 5mm, IMO I would go with bolt-on hub-centric spacers.
You should be using hub centric spacers regardless.

If you are not using bolt on spacers, make sure you have sufficient engagement on the lug threads, you don't want to leave your wheel someplace.

NOW the fun part:
If you have a lowered Coupe and you are looking to get flush, there is a nasty bolt flange in the most perfectly inconvenient place in your rear fender.

It WILL make the most unpleasant sound when you hit a dip, bump or have your mother-in-law in the passenger seat.

Another thing is the rear fender liner does not sit flush to the fender wall either. in fact it hangs directly over where your newly spaced tire will spend half it's time,

Fortunately, trimming both obstructions with a dremmel is quick and easy.
Or you can wait till your tires rip the liners off. They do quite a neat job.
Be warned if they go flapping in the wind they may abrade your fender a bit.

The bolt flange ain't going nowhere without cutting. And once you do, the lower bumper tip will not be secured, so some 3M tape can be used to make sure it stays aligned.

It won't fall off or anything but it may stick out if you don't secure it. See Kenny's thread about that.

bikezilla

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I took a wire wheel and a cordless drill to the hat face just to make sure.