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Replaced gear in 2011 G37 convertible flap. Need Help
2011 G37 convertible
One flap stopped working. Took it out and replaced the plastic gear with a metal one I bought on Ebay.
After fixing the transmission it works (opens/closes) when I use a drill to turn the spindle. I tested this before reattaching flap to the car
Tested motor by using open/close button to see it turn the spindle (disconnected from flap, but wired to car and free hanging). Motor worked
When I put it back together, flap wont open/close (other flap works fine).
So I am thinking one of 3 things.
1. Gear is tight therefore requiring more motor torque (motor not strong enough or harder to turn gears in transmission) OR
2. Motor is worn and does not have sufficient torque, although it seems to work fine during testing OR
3. Won't work until it goes through the "re learn" process which I do not understand how that works. Would the flap not work at all unless re learned?
Please explain what the re learn process does, is it a calibration adjustment, or would the flap not work until re learned again?
Any suggestions?
QUOTE=chuckie2000;4330238]Hi. Purchased my gears back in 2022 off Ebay. Bought a set for $199. Recently had them installed at MP Auto Repair in Arlington, Tx. Grubbs Infiniti wanted $6100 for the diagnostics, labor, and two new flapper assemblies. MP put my $199 gears in for $774. Now my G is a Smooth operator once more. The G all fixed up with new gears. MP Auto repair.[/QUOTE]
New to the forum. I've had a G35X and 3 Q50 Premiums as company cars going back about 12 years and I recently purchased a creampuff 2014 Q60 convertible. From searching other forums it looks like MyG37 is the right place for this 1st gen Q60 (?). When I was checking out the car prior to buying, the left flipper acted up. I assumed there was a failed plastic gear and decided to buy anyway because the rest of the car is showroom condition, and I'm very experienced in car repairs. I also knew to expect that Infiniti parts would be outrageous and was planning a DIY approach. You fine folks have already done the work.
I bought a pair of the fiber reinforced 3D printed gears on Ebay and installed the left gear on the left side. The right side is fine for now. I started this repair with the top full open and the trunk lid open. When re-assembling the flipper unit - prior to installing it back in the car - I used a #1 square driver to rotate the worm gear such that the flipper arm was in the top open position, to match the way it came out and the right side, and then I installed it. The top worked fine for two cycles, but we last left it top open and when we next tried to close the top the left flipper got stuck in mid-rotation. I can play around with turning the car off and lock/unlock sequences and eventually I get the top to close. Obviously, I did something wrong. At one point I had the top closed and I did a reset by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes. No improvement.
A few posts in this thread refer to using "consult" and "learning". This sounds like what I need, I suspect the flipper is out of sequence. Can one of you please point me in the right direction?
Thanks for any help.
can someone post on the consult tool, purpose, and how to access it?
BTW, Guy’s machined gears are beautiful, fit perfectly! As for reinstalling the flapper arm assemblies, ARRGGHH! Difficulties abound!
I replaced the gears with Guy gears (Thanks a million Guy!). I'm worried that the top will get stuck in the open position ar worse, part way because I changed the programming. Should I just go for it? Thinking of testing it in the dealers service lot in case!!
If your top was working properly, other than the broken gears, it should still work without a relearn or reset(by disconnecting the battery). It should open/close as before.
Thanks Guy! I drove the flippers by hand (by turning to drive cable before installing the motor) as far as I could to the top closed position so I figured as such but I got caught with the top 1/2 way open/closed before and had to tow the car to the dealer to have it "relearned". The tow was hard to find as most didn't want to tow a car with the top like that. Don't want to go through that again!! BTW, if I disconnect the battery I'm going to have to pay for a "relearn"??
Nope! By disconnecting the battery it’s only do a reset, meanwhile, I would personally try to do a full opening/closing cycle. When you replaced the gears, there’s no sensors in the flipper arms , other than micro switches on both sides of the flap, telling the top management system that the flippers are at their final position..it’s electrical but not electronic.
Back to the drawing board! I tried it and the drivers side flipper dangled like it wasn't attached to anything. I'm afraid the flexible shaft from the motor is not connected on one of the ends!
This thread is very helpful. I'll be starting my own replacement one weekend this month. I've already got my replacement metal gears from Guy. My car is a 2012 G37 convertible. One flipper failed a few years ago and I had a local mechanic replace it--not the gear, he replaced the entire arm mechanism. Which means it just put a (new) nylon gear inside there. Still working, but now the other side broke and it prompted me to come here, looking for a better solution. I'm at least going to repair the broken side. Depending on how smoothly it goes I MIGHT proactively replace the other with its metal gear...or might wait and keep the spare gear around for the future.
Besides the helpful discussion & photos here, I've watched a couple videos on YouTube that are also helpful.
- Fixing my 2012 Infiniti G37s Convertible Flippers; replacing those gears. Don't go to the dealer DIY by "Engineer's Notes"
What other tools/prep do I need?
I've noted the #1 square drive bit (for turning the worm gear) and a Torx 30 bit for some of the fasteners. A rivet gun and 3/16 aluminum rivets. The top video recommends a "reversible head" rivet gun that I've found online, but it has really lousy reviews and some reliability issues. A cordless drill, and strong steel bits for drilling out the original rivets. (The top video used WD40 but I think real cutting oil is much better for drilling out steel, yes?) Probably a piece of lumber or PVC to offload the weight of the lifted trunk lid, not relying on the gas springs the whole time. Is an automotive clip remover tool helpful?
Brake cleaner? (To clear out the old gearbox grease)
Lithium grease? (To re-pack it)