When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
About a year and a half ago I purchased a pair of gear replacements fro Guy. Only.my.right side was broken at the time. Fast forward to today. I had a top open failure this morning due to the left side flap failing. Luckily I had the other gear left and put it in. I decided to take a.little different approach and only.pull the gear and leave the brackets and electrical alone.
Drill out 4 rivets. Torx 30 to take out the 2 mounting screws Use a small Allen wrench to push out the 4 black pins. They have to come all the way out. Then use a small.flat blade screw driver to open the case. Old gear with stripped out center gear. Black pins from previous step on the left. New metal gear installed. This is why I believe the metal gears are better. The back force feeding into from the flap causes the nylon to strip out. Reverse assembly and put 4 new 3/16 rivets in. It's best to pull the drive spring from the motor and turn the spring to align into the gear box. I used consult to close the flap and dona relearn. Took less than 45 minutes.
Thanks for this testimony! That confirm i was in the right track for selling them by pair...instead of one side only. You where lucky the failure occured few month later on the other side.
Great thread, used your method this weekend to get my right side flapper back up and running. I actually didn’t need to perform a relearn; put channel locks on the motor side of the drive spring and rotated it to get back to a closed position. Tops worked perfectly on 10+ cycles since.
Thanks for the update. One word of warning about the channel locks on the drive spring. I did that on my first go round and the end basically started coming apart. I found a replacement but it cost me.
I did discover that a number 1 square drive fits the inside of the worm gear.
New to the forum. I've had a G35X and 3 Q50 Premiums as company cars going back about 12 years and I recently purchased a creampuff 2014 Q60 convertible. From searching other forums it looks like MyG37 is the right place for this 1st gen Q60 (?). When I was checking out the car prior to buying, the left flipper acted up. I assumed there was a failed plastic gear and decided to buy anyway because the rest of the car is showroom condition, and I'm very experienced in car repairs. I also knew to expect that Infiniti parts would be outrageous and was planning a DIY approach. You fine folks have already done the work.
I bought a pair of the fiber reinforced 3D printed gears on Ebay and installed the left gear on the left side. The right side is fine for now. I started this repair with the top full open and the trunk lid open. When re-assembling the flipper unit - prior to installing it back in the car - I used a #1 square driver to rotate the worm gear such that the flipper arm was in the top open position, to match the way it came out and the right side, and then I installed it. The top worked fine for two cycles, but we last left it top open and when we next tried to close the top the left flipper got stuck in mid-rotation. I can play around with turning the car off and lock/unlock sequences and eventually I get the top to close. Obviously, I did something wrong. At one point I had the top closed and I did a reset by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes. No improvement.
A few posts in this thread refer to using "consult" and "learning". This sounds like what I need, I suspect the flipper is out of sequence. Can one of you please point me in the right direction?
If the flipper is getting stuck in mid-stroke the transmissions wasn't realized correctly. It shouldn't stop until it hits the micro-switch at either end. Since the switch hasn't triggered the top computer sees an event that your dash calls "trunk open". It seems that almost any failure is called trunk open.
You're going to have to figure out where the transmission is binding. Probably taking the entire mechanism out and. running it on a bench top power supply. Simply reverse plus and minus to switch directions. My suspicion is binding of the output shaft on the sheet metal guide hole. I've experienced that problem myself.
If the flipper is getting stuck in mid-stroke the transmissions wasn't realized correctly. It shouldn't stop until it hits the micro-switch at either end. Since the switch hasn't triggered the top computer sees an event that your dash calls "trunk open". It seems that almost any failure is called trunk open.
You're going to have to figure out where the transmission is binding. Probably taking the entire mechanism out and. running it on a bench top power supply. Simply reverse plus and minus to switch directions. My suspicion is binding of the output shaft on the sheet metal guide hole. I've experienced that problem myself.
Could you please clarify what you mean by binding of output shaft on the metal guide hole? I assume by output shaft you're referring to the flexible drive cable from the motor to the worm gear. Is that correct? What is meant by the sheet metal guide hole??
Thanks for this testimony! That confirm i was in the right track for selling them by pair...instead of one side only. You where lucky the failure occured few month later on the other side.
Guy,
I recently purchased a pair of the 3D printed fiber reinforced gears on Ebay. My left side on my 2014 Q60 had failed. Installed the new gear on the left side this past weekend and it worked great for three cycles. On the fourth open attempt the left flipper again stalled at mid-rotation. I have dis-assembled the unit again and found that at the point of hang-up, there are 3 or 4 teeth on the new gear that appear scalloped on one side of each tooth. I didn't inspect these prior to assembly so not sure if this left side was received defective or was damaged after 3 cycles. I have since inspected the Right side gear which I haven't used yet and it looks fine all around. I suspect this plastic solution is not a solution. Are you still selling the metallic gears and, if so, could you PM me?
When the transmission is installed it is kept in place by two metal brackets. One has a large hole that the plastic housing fits in. The other has a smaller hole that the flipper axle fits into. This metal part has to be nearly perfectly aligned of the flipper can bind.
The other part that can cause binding is the movement of the new gear inside the housing. In my opinion it's a wonky design that should never haveade it into a high end car. I am currently working on a design to replace the motor and transmission with a belt drive. It would probably cost less that putting in new metal gears.