I just flashed an off the shelf tune and my AF goes all the way to 16 in a couple spots and runs in the 15’s from about 3000 RPM up. When the goal is at 12.2, I’m showing high 14’s in my data log. Idle and lower RPM’s on the 3rd gear pull look good, but worse and worse as the RPM’s rise. I bought a level 1 tune on my 2012 G37S Convertible. I have a good CAI and exhaust. Those numbers scare me. Is it close to kaboom? The right bank is always just a little higher than the left as well throughout the pull. Where should I go from here? It’s an EcuTek flash tune. No license on the tune for me. : (…
Thanks for any input.

 

You will have to be muy careful senor, the VQ will run great when lean, but running lean will quickly re$ult in expen$ive problem$.

On to your question;

Every VQ is a little bit different and responds a bit differently to mods. As such, there are no off the shelf tunes other than base tunes sent by a retailer. e.g., when I purchased the self tune option from UpRev, they sent a conservative (can you say rich) ROM to get me started without harming the motor. Then I dialed it in for the best street performance while maintaining safe AF targets. They do the same thing with E-Tunes.

Sounds a bit like you have a ROM that was set up for a different VQ. Do you have the ECUTek app? I believe it allows the user to adjust the fuel trims which may help. You could also look into NDS III which allows some adjustment by changing the AFR for the different MAF voltages, but it is not straight forward and could lead to other problems.

Not sure what else to tell you at this point other than to be super careful as you don’t know how the ROM was set regarding response to the knock sensors. If it is ignoring them, then you could get into big trouble real quick. Plus summer is upon us and higher outside temps mean higher intake temps which means higher likelihood for detonaton. My son crumpled a rod on his Z by playing loose with a tune.

 

Based solely on following this forum, and my limited experience with getting my own car remote tuned a couple years ago, I would agree with beefychicken. An "off-the-shelf" tune defeats the purpose of a tune, which is to customize things for your engine. Doesn't mean the OTS tune is crap, it just means it's generic and might not play well with your car.

My advice... cut your losses, buy an ecutek license, and work with a tuner. If you can find one locally, with a dyno, all the better.

 

All good advice
I'd be double checking for intake/exhaust leaks, low fuel press, dirty injectors etc
You could also try swapping O2 and maf sensors left to right, see if the lean bank moves with the sensor.
Can't tune out a mechanical issue

 

Good advice. The banks are just a bit different, but stays equally off throughout the pull. The intake on the left has an extra breather hose, and I was just assuming that connection, being different from the Rt. side, could make them slightly different. I'll check the CAI again and also double check the exhaust. The Rt. sport cat makes a slight zinging sound at WOT. I Think it's the cat, but could be some funky vibration too. They are brand new spun cats, and I'm guessing the metal inside the cat just vibrates against it's self. That left side/Driver's side was a bit difficult to get at the bolts. I'm going to go get some wobble extensions today or tomorrow, for installing my BMW M Roadster sub-frame and control arm bushings. I'll need to remove the intake to get to those bolts anyway, so I'll give it a check. I think I may need a stage 2 flash, but the intake does narrow at the MAF's, but those sport cats might require a more aggressive tune. I'm waiting for the tuner to get back before I commit to anything else right now. I used the same place that tuned my 300ZX Twin Turbo that is fully built, and that tune is very good. No going to name names. haha. Anyone know of a good G tuner near Tucson?