Ouch! Damn...
If you are not able to pull any codes/diagnose any further, I would take the car to a reputable transmission shop and go from there. Remember, if the clutch piston inside the torque converter is not releasing, either the piston/valve is physically stuck or, possible, the solenoid is stuck open. Almost impossible to say at this point.

At the very least you should at least plan on changing the ATF- never know, this could solve your issue especially if "gunk" has built up. This is DIY might help: CHANGING G37 ATF DIY

 

call a trans shop or racing trans company to get part

 

So I'm experiencing this*exact* same issue. ! Everything the same. Never stalled in park I must add though. But the same symptoms when coming to a full stop where it wants to keep driving. I feel like I need to press in a clutch like in a manual car! I have gone ahead and googled enough in the last few weeks to give me many headaches and I have ordered in an upgraded 500whp TQ converter from Level10. My car is tuned I should also add. Basic bolt ons as well.

Over the last few months the car has steadily wanted to lurch forward harder and harder when I'm putting it in drive and setting off for a drive I feel like this was my sign that it was on its way out.

The problem is intermittent. Certainly not every light at all. Maybe only every 15th light for me. And sometimes never at all for a short drive. But there's times where I'll get all the way home and it'll do it going into reverse to park the car. Almost a perfect drive. Sigh. Lol

Anyway a trans shop looked at the car the last two days and says the car is fine. There's no issues no codes related etc and they couldn't reproduce the problem. Although the issue occurred on the way TO AND FROM the shop for me!!!

Long story short I took my car home and I phoned the dealership. I want peace of mind going where they have the tools to do it all and the service manuals to point them in the right direction.

Not a cheap job, I'm sure but with a little luck it's just the Lockup Inside the TQ converter itself that is the issue , and not the actual solenoid itself.

Have never changed the atf I will also add. Have asked at the dealer and have been told it doesn't need it for a while yet. I'm at 120,000kms (70k miles?)

Fingers crossed the dealer throws this new upgraded TQ converter in and new fluids and she is as good as new again ! Appx 2 weeks will know more and update *

I hope everyone else has luck finding the issues with their G.

Jp


*Edit* The dealer replaced my oem torque converter with the bulletproof 500hp one from Level10 and the car drives beautifully. They also did fresh fluids with the change so I'm not ruling out fluid level or dirty fluid, that may have contributed to my issue but regardless the new TQ converter set me right on my way. 10/10 again !


Edit #2 !

​​​​​​Less than 2500km after the upgraded level 10 torque converter install at the dealership I'm experiencing really bad knocking when I'm coming to a stop or when stopped in drive and reverse. The same style issue as before ! But not locking up like before , just this sack of hammers sound banging around under the car. So I brought it to the dealership. Hoping that there was some defective install as it was still under a year from install and the dealership usually will cover costs if it's a labour issue. Or if it's an OEM part they'll replace that. In my case. I paid for them to diagnose the car, they pointed to the Torque Converter. ( Which they had just installed 8/10 months prior. prior.
​​​​​​Seemed very unlikely to me but whatever. They removed the TQ converter , I sent it back to the folks at Level10 Transmission and they took it apart and diagnosed it with a damaged damper. Which would explain the sounds. Etc.

SO.

Level 10 shipped me a new/rebuilt TQ converter at my shipping expense both ways. And the dealership slapped it in when it finished it's week and a half long turnaround. Since then it's been smooth sailing but I drive it a bit more gingerly now than before.
$1800Cdn + TQ Cnv. Cost the first time
+
$2300 + Shipping the Parts across 2 countries. Second Time.
=
This thing needs any more than an oil change from now on and I'm burning it.

 

Did you ever find the problem to this? My 2013 Infiniti G37 Journey Sedan just started to do this also. When I put my car into "Reverse" it completely shuts off also when I put it into "Drive" the car shuts off completely. I have put the car into "Drive" & gave the car gas & it runs but when coming to a stop light or stop sign while stopped the car starts to jerk/bog & shuts off completely the car won't start up anymore I have had someone give me a jump & the car starts but i still had the car towed to my house. I took out the battery & took it to autozone where they checked my battery & they said it was 95% charged & giving perfect voltage out also. Today when my dad & I tried to turn the car on it was completely dead i had to give it a jump again to turn on the car. I cleaned out my Mass Airflow Sensors & thought maybe i got some dirt into them. So i went to switch out the Mass Airflow Sensors & that didnt fix the problem at all. Any information thanks

 

hey. it's your transmission/torque converter. can't say which one for sure. my 13 sedan started doing the same thing after a hard pull from a stop. i had changed the trans oil a few months before that. @ 95k miles. i did drive it around a couple of weeks because it was intermittent. it finally started stalling all the time so i swapped it with a used trans/torque conv. myself. problem solved. could be just the torque converter. thing is, when they fail, it produces metal shavings that contaminates your actual transmission. i think that's what happened to my trans. it had metal shavings everywhere inside, although it was shifting fine until the very end. i never got a check engine light BTW.

 

I think I'm having this issue right now. A cracked hose ran out all my transmission fluid. And I never noticed it until after driving it for an additional 15 miles. You mentioned it was shifting fine until the very end, do you mean the transmission eventually failed due to all the metal shavings produced by a failed torque converter? I debated on just swapping whole transmission out for the VR30

 

yes. no real reason to get vr30, unless you're 100% boosting down the line.... a low mile OE trans will do just fine.

 

​​​​​​I got a few codes with the same problem, it was U1000 CAN, P1815 Manufacture Mode Switch Circuit, P0725 Engine speed sensor, P1721 Vehicle speed sensor.
​​​​​

 

Hey what transmission did you swap your old one with? I have a 2014 Q50 and im about to put a 2011 g37 transmission in it. They are the same exact transmission but they are different years, you think itll work?

 

Hey did you ever fix the problem?

 

So it did end up being my transmission after I did the tranny flush at the Infiniti dealership the car lasted about a month doing good & then it started stalling out my cars Automatic & after I went to get it checked out at a transmission shop they told me it was contaminated from the shavings & due to harsh driving so I ended up doing a rebuild which I should've gone back to the dealership in the first place but I didn't think of it till the Transmission shop AAMCO had already done the job I ended up driving it for 6k miles & gave out again I drove it harsh again I messed up on not giving the car time or some miles to settle in. Im actually going this week to get it redone again off the warrenty they gave me. So in my opinion if anybody is having this problem its most likely the transmission or torque converter as you said. Also anybody reading this I DONT reccomend a transmission flush I repeat DO NOT recommend a transmission flush unless its been getting done throughout the life of the car in a timely manner because I did mine at 100k & soon as I did it completely ruined my transmission & these cars are bullet proof ! I only did my transmission flush due to the reccomendation from the service advisor at Infiniti I just wanted to take care of my car as much as possible but still my fault for following through & not knowing if it had been done by the previous owner. So check your service records if you can people ! Hope this helps anyone having these problems or concerns also rebuild was 3k & new transmission in my area for my 2013 Infiniti G37 sedan is 7k from Infiniti dealership its still a rebuild but done through Infiniti just in case anyone is wondering or thinking about the difference in pricing. Any questions feel free to ask me