Long time lurker and looking for some advice. So got back from the dealer and they confirmed my suspicion that my water pump has gone bad at 50k miles. Occasionally leaks fluid from the weep hole and was told pressure testing confirmed it. So I am about to tackle this project this weekend or next and was looking for any tips/tricks/advice from those that have done this before. I have read through most of the posts on the subject and have been tinkering with cars for years but this will be one of my bigger projects. Getting to and replacing just looks to be time consuming and the only concern is getting it back together and finding out I jumped my timing. Any pointers are welcomed or heads up on small things I may overlook - cheers.

 

Thats a very early failure on for the water pump, but it is what its I guess.

Check the condition of your gallery gasket while you're in there. your year is supposed to be safe from failure and have redesigned version but better to check..get he metal one or the aftermarket one if you want to upgrade maybe

Check on your tensioners and the timing chain and the sprockets (Probably still fine at your mileage)

Get a Harmonic balancer socket (weighted socket)and a very high torque impact wrench to remove the crank bolt if you have trouble getting it off....this has been a major delay point for lots of people in the process

take your time getting the timing cover off and don't bend it

Review all the DIY threads on the oil gallery gasket...its basically the same teardown and theres tons of pictures form other at this point.

post up your success and good luck!

 

If you haven't already, obtain a copy of the FSM for your car. Section CO (COOLING) has a detailed step-by-step on replacing the water pump (see below). You will not be removing the timing chains from the sprockets so do nit worry about jumping your timing. All you will have to do is remove one tensioner and SLIGHTLY rotate the crankshaft COUNTER CLOCKWISE to get some slack on the water pump side of the engine. The slack will be just enough to allow you to lift the chain off the water pump sprocket. When rotating, just keep a eye on the crankshaft sprocket as this is the only place where the chain can go off track- unlikely as you will not be turning the crank more than a few degrees.



There are A LOT of small bolts that you will have to remove. Get a large piece of cardboard and make a diagram of where each and every bolt goes. Punch holes in the cardboard. Remove a bolt, place it in the diagram. Upon reassembly this will come in priceless. Also, when installing the new pump, be very careful of sharp edges on the engine block. The last thing you want is to pinch or nick the new o-rings.

As Hashim mentioned, you should be immune from the dreaded oil galley gasket failure that affects earlier engines. While you are in the engine just give a good look and make sure the galley plate is secure- the screws/bolts holding the plate have a reputation for being under torqued (again earlier engines). At 50k miles your timing assembly should be in good condition.

Best advice, take your time. Familiarize yourself with the procedure. It is not hard to do but it is very time consuming having to remove everything. I haven't done this job on this car, but on a Honda- the premise is just the same.

Good luck.
Here Is a link for the CO Section of the FSM: COOLING SYSTEM FSM.pdf

 

Water pump replacement for a DE but the procedure and layout are very similar.

 

Theres one huge difference between the DE and HR/VHR engines with respect to the waterpump... the DE engines have an access port that can simply be unbolted making the job very simple and not requiring all the disassembly of the HR/VHR engines requires...unfortunately you can't use that procedure for the HR/VHR engines you have to remove the Harmonic balancer and the the entire timing chain cover etc.

 

I did not even realize the cover was not removed. Jeez, that seems like a big design mistake.

 

Yeah I find it infuriating that they did away with it..its the difference between a couple of hour of work vs a couple of days (realistically) for what should be a serviceable item..I mean I would even understand it better if it want on the old engine but to have it and then remove it...so annoying

 

So I started tackling this project this weekend and got everything torn down, replaced the water pump and unfortunately when wiggling it in there the chain moved. I dont know from where but there was definitely some movement. I then rotated everything around to make sure all the factory timing marks line up only to find the chain slipped on the driver side cam. Loosened the chain back up and took the slack out of the top of the chain which made the top part of the motor fall into correct timing.

Problem is when going around to make sure everything lines up I come to find I can't get the orange link on the chain to line up with the notch on the crank. If i do it creates slack on the water pump side and makes the tensioner side to tight to install. Is this just a finesse the link onto it with slight adjustments or is there something I am over looking. Chain is tight all around and looks to be ok except for this crankshaft mark - any advice is appreciated.

 

Sir I wish I could kiss you (no homo lmao) you just saved me 1500 from going to get a tow to a shop
thanks to the forums I’m gonna be able to do the job myself I was ready to get rid of the car but you saved it and for that I am grateful