It lives!

Thanks for these explanations and insights, Ryan. I didn't know (or missed or forgot) that the dial has 10 full rotations available, which would mean my setup is at 90%. And while that's higher than your 75% recommendation, your comment here that all is good as long as you're not catching or grinding while shifting, that gives me peace of mind. Thanks for that.

Hope you enjoyed back-reading this thread. And I wish you continued success with RJM. It's 100% deserved.

 

Rochester, you're very welcome and thanks for the props. I truly appreciate the kind words on my humble products. The thread you've created here is truly in a league of it's own, you're a real class act and I can't tell you enough how much I appreciate you taking the time to create and maintain this amazing thread


Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

 

Well... you could expand your product line. That would be awesome.

Given what you have here, seems to me the next best logical component would be a RJM Short-throw Shifter that's better than what's currently available from TWM, Stillen, B&M or Ralco.

IDK what you could do that's better per se, but if you applied the same engineering skills that you used for the pedal assembly, you'd have a winner. Maybe a locking center thread in the shaft for height customization? IDK, just thinking out loud... although height adjustment would sure be unique to the market. I suppose another way to do that would be to configure the STS really short, with an assortment of extension fittings to choose height from. That's got possibilities, too, selling the extensions individually or as a kit of 3, for example. On top of which, you already have a database of built-in customers to farm.

Get that going before Summer 2016, match it up with a polyurethane tranny mount like the one Z1 is selling, and I'm there. Heck, since you're just on the other side(-ish) of the border, I'd even let you use my car as the test mule. Although there's certainly no lacking of Z's and G's in the Toronto area.

You can't tell me this hasn't crossed your mind, Ryan. And now I've put you on the spot, LOL.

 

Since this thread is chalk full of good information pertaining to the RJM, thought I'd add some tips for anyone is experiencing a popping noise when coming off the clutch a few inches.

Ryan suggested the following for the issue, "The rubber pop you’re hearing on slow release is the clutch rod coming thru the rubber boot on the base of the master cylinder. If the rod angle is off it’ll catch little as the thick part of the rod tries to pass the lip of the rubber boot. Shine a light under there and look right at the base of the master cylinder and you’ll see what I mean. Getting the clutch rod angle straighter will help this along with applying a touch of white grease to the base of the rod to help it slide past the lip instead of popping.".

 

Rochester, neither suggestion is currently part of my top secret product development but those are some good ideas. I’ll give you a hint to my new development though, I purchased a nice metal lathe and Aluminum welding equipment just before Christmas to start prototyping a new part. Just like the pedal assemblies I’ll be the only player in the market once completed

However I’ll give you credit, with my new shop toys it does give me the in house machining capability to start development on both of your ideas as well if there’s an interest

Thanks,
Ryan@RJM

 

Ryan, sign me up for beta testing said mystery awesomeness!

 

OK, OK... I'll stop guessing. Although I think being the first person to offer a height-adjustable STS would be pretty awesome. I'm planning on getting a STS this summer, but along with the shorter throw, I'd actually like it at OEM height. Not really digging it seeing all these short-throw setups where the shift **** is buried deep into the boot. But a threaded two-piece shaft with a locking nut seems very feasible to my not-an-engineer mind.

Whatever you come up with, I'm sure it will be a gotta-have-it product.

You know, you remind me a little of Aaron Kimball, who runs NWP Engineering and sells high quality, highly engineered items to a relatively narrow niche market, primarily for the VQ35DE. The modding world needs more guys like you and him.

 

In my experience, that's due to the rod over-extending. If you release the spring and let the pedal sit neutral, you'll get a good idea of where the rod is supposed to be at neutral as well. I adjusted it so that the clutch pedal, when released, would be at that exact spot. Over-extending the rod will actually wear down that rubber seal over long periods if you don't grease it up regularly, which shouldn't need to be done if you don't over-extend it.

 

Sorry but I have to disagree on a few points here.
The rod in the master cylinder can’t be over extended. The piston on the inside of the master cylinder is driven upwards by a stiff spring inside the housing which in turn pushes the rod up. When the large end of the clutch rod contacts the retaining washer in the end of the master cylinder housing that is as far as the rod can come out and is where it SHOULD stop at every time. If the rod doesn’t fully come up to this critical stopping point on every stroke the internal piston inside won’t clear the vent port that allows fluid to equalize pressure between the reservoir and the high pressure side of the system. Without this the master cylinder can behave badly and cause somevery strange pedal feel problems.


So for this reason the clutch rod should ALWAYS come 100% upand is not a source of noise or excess wear on the rubber boot as the factory pedal assembly always withdrew the rod to this stopping point as well.


What you can do however is make sure to remove the linkage slack from the pedal assembly by unhooking the spring and allowing the pedal slack to drop down while setting up the upper switch stopping position on the Rev 2 versions. Rev 3 uses a different adjustment method for the upper switch which involves pressing the pedal down lightly to remove the slack and then tightening the switch lock bolt..


In my experience an audible clicking or metallic pop is almost always to due with setup of the clutch rod angle or the AFP adjuster lock bolt has been left loose. A rubber sounding pop is typically from the rubber boot where it meets the larger diameter nose of the clutch rod.


Hope that helps eliminate any confusion.

 

I see what you mean, but it does "over-extend" if your rod angle is too significant, in the way that the rubber seal can't contain the rod. Yes it shouldn't stress the seal if the angle is dead straight. One should also yank on the rod to make sure it's 100% out before setting in the upper switch.

 

Just installed my v3, holy crap what a difference! My best mod thus far. As every other happy rjm customer, I highly recommend this. Install wasn't too bad, I'm 6'4" and didn't take the seat out but I did contort my body into positions I didn't think I was capable of. Also, all of this info makes a ton more sense once you're in there and see everything for yourself.
Here's a short video of the adjustment of the MC rod, hope it helps anyone who is confused about some of these posts.

 

Just pulled the trigger. Can't wait!

My wife got a spa day on our cruise last week and asked why I didn't get one too.

My response.... "I'll buy something nice for the G. That'll relax me more."

 

Haha good luck explaining that

I was swaying back and forth but what convinced me was the fact that it helps reduce the wear on your csc which I already replaced but to be perfectly honest, it's well worth it even if it didn't affect the csc, it's like a different, much smoother car, did a decent amount of driving today and it just gets better the more you acclimate to a whole new clutch. I'll try some different settings once I get used to the factory 75%
If anyone who's going to be installing it diy and have questions, don't hesitate, it's really a lot easier to grasp everything once you see it and get under there
A big to RJM, service, communication, and above all, product too notch

 

Just installed mine last night, this thing is awesome. When I got this car I figured I just sucked at shifting more than I thought, but this pedal (and thread) has me glad to know that's not the case

We got a snow storm last night though so I was just spinning tires most of the time when I wanted to go try and see if it needed adjusting, so I've just left it as it came from Ryan, but everything seems fine.

Install was pretty easy with the seat out so I could just lie down and put my feet up on the bench. I had more of an issue getting the clutch position sensor plugs out and fiddling around with that door trim stuff than I did actually swapping the pedals themselves .

Thanks Ryan!!

 

I'm going to have to get one of these now.