Haha. It's a race. And now you are winning.

That makes sense.

That makes even more sense.

That I'm not following, having not yet read the instructions fully. Although as the install date gets closer, I'm sure to be doing so.

Jsolo, having done these installations on a number of cars yourself, and being familiar with the parts, particularly in the context of you selling that spring for the last 3 to 4 years (that long now?)... are you yourself finally using this clutch pedal assembly in your car?

Three years later for me, and I would still describe that little spring as the best $20 that I ever spent on the car.

 

Forgot to add, after making **** adjustments you should verify the MC pushrod is still perpendicular to the MC (vertical adjustment in the pedal). It will work if offset, but will cause uneven wear on the MC seals.

The two switches are the starter interlock (pedal to the floor) and cruise disable (pedal at the top). In addition to functioning as switches for these tasks, they also act to limit pedal travel. More important is the cruise switch. If adjusted improperly will preload the MC not allowing full engagement. The other switch will not allow full clutch disengagement if incorrectly adjusted.

@Rochester, I made some changes to the MC pushrod adjustment to bring the grab point closer to the floor. Still using the spring though. I've gotten very used to this arrangement. We'll see what it's like when the clutch gets replaced with something heavier, then I may consider this.

Note I'm all too familiar with the above as the last install was about 2 months ago. Reading the instructions is one thing but it makes more sense when you see how it all works together.

 

Jsolo just so I'm clear, nothing should be adjustable (including the red **** which I can freely turn) once the lock bolts are tightened? Perhaps they did not tighten those lock bolts.

Also, is the clutch rod adjustment **** colored like the red AFP ****? If so what color is it?

 

If everything is tightened down then yes, you shouldn't be able to rotate anything.

The MC rod is not painted. It's the rod the comes out of the MC. There is a locknut that locks it into position at the clevis fork.

I guess you can say you got your $150 worth . The main pain in installation is just getting the assembly installed. If I were you, i'd read the instructions several times over starting on the adjustment page (reading the entire document is a good idea too). Verify you have proper gaps at the switches under the conditions specified in the instructions. Confirm the clutch rod is perpendicular to the master, etc.

Was any instruction provided on how to fine tune or they just handed you the keys? I suppose being a customer provided part, no warranty is offered of any kind for labor [or consequential damages].

 

I took a look before I left for work, and I see the hex bolt which looks like it will lock the red ****. I liked that I could adjust it "on the fly" but obviously I don't want anything to break.

When I push the clutch in, the MC rod is definitely not straight in line with the MC - it looks straight when the clutch pedal is up, but as I push the pedal the rod ends up pointing up slightly. I'll have to adjust that so that it points straight in with the clutch pedal fully pressed in, correct?

The cruise switch seems to be lined up okay, although it starts to hit a little off center. I think if I get the whole assembly up just a bit, it will take care of both problems.

I've read the adjustment directions 10 times between last night and this morning, and it's making more sense each time. It really helped to just get under there and look around. Thanks again for all of the tips.

And yes - they just straight up handed me the keys lol. I went back in and asked the tech to show me how to adjust everything and he started rattling off all of the tools I would need. I'm gonna go back and talk to the owner (who convinced me he could install it no problem) and make sure they get everything straight.

 

It should be an allen bolt that locks the adjuster ****.

Not sure if the rod it will be perpendicular throughout the entire pedal stroke. You can try to adjust it when the pedal is halfway through the stroke. Or, if it is perpendicular now, leave it be. There's 2 7/16" bolts that need to be loosened if you're going to adjust the rod angle.

The cruise switch should have a certain gap in it with the spring off, pedal at the top. Goal is not to preload the pedal. Exact on center isn't critical. The plastic button that engages the switch is concave, and switch surface is rounded, so it'll find its position. If adjustment is needed, UNPLUG the switch first before loosening anything. You don't want the wires to get twisted. You will need two wrenches to loosen/tighten the switch locknuts.

With everything adjusted, there should be some play at the top of the pedal (1/2 to 3/4" of movement before resistance is felt). Look for no movement of the clutch rod as you slightly move the pedal.

Given the adjustments, it's very much a personal preference. Which explains why they left the adjuster loose. But as I mentioned anytime you make changes at the adjuster ****, those switches need to be readjusted too.

 

Well it sounds like they didn't do that bad of a job then. The MC rod is perpendicular (you mean pointing straight into the MC, right?) when the clutch pedal is all the way up. The cruise switch is fully pressed in when the clutch pedal is up. And I have about 3/4" of play in the clutch pedal before I feel any pressure. Perhaps all they needed to do was tighten down that allen bolt (don't know why I called it hex lol).

I have an appointment Friday with the owner and he said he's going to personally show me how to make all adjustments, and make sure I'm dialed in.

 

Thanks for the discussion guys! When I originally installed my RJM pedal my MC rod was perpendicular. However I had the Zspeed HD CSC installed along with a new MC and I never checked to see if the new MC rod was perpendicular. I just went out to check, sure enough it was not and I have driven around 3k miles this way.

 

Are you saying it's not perpendicular when the clutch pedal is up, down, or ever? Mine is pointing almost dead straight when the clutch pedal is up, and it gradually starts pointing up as I push the clutch pedal down. The shop owner said this is "normal" and that there is as much as 1.5" of "play" for the MC rod and the MC. I have no clue if this is true or not, nor do I know if the rod should be straight in when the clutch pedal is up, down, or both (or if that's even possible).

 

So I've been tinkering a bit and I see the two switches and how to adjust them up and down, depending on the AFP **** setting. What's disconcerting though now, is I'm hearing a noise in the engine compartment when the clutch pedal is up and the cruise switch is engaged. Doesn't matter if I'm in gear or in neutral, moving or stationary. I don't recall exactly when it started happening.

Do I have too much pressure on the cruise switch? And is there a way to adjust that?

 

I can't relate yet to any of these observations and questions... not for another 10 days. But I'm glad you two are talking about it.

Furlow, next summer we can do this all over again with a short shifter thread. Unless you beat me to that, too.

Next up for me are 4.083 gears in Spring 2016. It's a race... GO!

 

I think that means the MC rod isn't truly straight. Mine was working like yours but opposite - it looked straight when the pedal was up but when the pedal was pushed down the MC rod would slowly slope downards. What I did was loosen the two 7/16 bolts that Jsolo mentioned and pushed the pedal upwards until the MC rod stayed straight through the whole travel of the pedal. I was able to leave the two bolts loose and press the pedal down and watch the MC rod without the pedal moving, once I saw the MC rod straight through the whole range I tightened the bolts down. I'm assuming you would need to pull your pedal downwards a little after loosening the bolts.

It was working for 3k miles without the adjustment since there is the play that your shop said, however how detrimental is that to the life of the MC? I'm not sure, but if it can be adjusted to be perpendicular through the whole travel of the pedal I'm sure that is the most optimal.

 

Thanks, Tony. I'll look into that next.

Rochester I've been looking into the short shifters, but I'm enjoying shifting so much with the new shift ****, I'm not sure it needs it. You know how these things go though, I'll change my mind 100 times.

Side note on the clutch pedal noise - it's not the cruise switch it's the clutch itself. The second I put the clutch in, the noise goes away. It's the worst in neutral, idling, clutch pedal up. I honestly have no idea if it's always been like this or just started. From researching it sounds common and not dangerous, but I still don't like it.

 

The noise is about like this -

 

Sounds like the typical trans noise. We all have it to a varying degree. Noise disappears when you press the clutch in because the input shaft of the trans gets decoupled from the the engine and slows down/stops rotating (making noise).

About the clutch rod perpendicularity, due to the motion of the pedal, I don't think it's possible for it to be this way through the entire motion. The best you can adjust for is probably for it to be perpendicular at the midway point in the pedal stroke. As long as it's not grossly angled you should be ok.

Here's a good video demonstrating freeplay - . Focus on the clutch rod's lack of movement as the pedal itself is moved slightly back and forth.

This freeplay is adjusted in by the cruise switch (top switch).