Asked for the pedal assembly for xmas... Apparently there's a new version, and I got one! Sweeeeet!

 

Rev3? According to Ryan's website, it's "faster and easier to install". That's cool. I wonder what it is about it that's different.

 

Looks like it's mostly assembled & set out of the box, and has easier adjustability. Cool stuff.

 

I like that new feature: "direct viewing window to tell at a glance where the AFT is setup for 0, 25, 50, 75, 100". That idea is a whole lot easier to wrap your head around.

What's this claim? "Reduces or eliminates the CSC failures." How in the heck do you suppose he can make that claim?

So... I wrote to Ryan and asked. Let's see what he responds with.

 

^ The strokes are much easier on the slave cylinder since the pedal gets lighter ?

 

I don't think so... The force required to push on the diaphragm spring to release the clutch is the same. RJM is changing the lever ratio to make it easier to push the clutch pedal, but this results in less CSC movement. (but still enough for proper engagement and disengagement)

Maybe less CSC movement = more CSC life?

 

^ Thats probably it, i have the older version installed on my car and very curious if this worth the upgrade haha

 

Ryan wrote back on this question. Here it is:

Additionally, there's this discussion thread on the370z.com:

Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post - RJM Clutch Pedal System for 370Z - Fully Customizable Clutch Feel & Stroke

Seeing as how my CSC blew out at only 18k miles, I've no small measure of anxiety that it could happen again. So this analysis on the relationship between the CSC and the clutch pedal is somewhat comforting.

 

lame.. i just got mine a few months ago...

 

so i installed my V2.1 RJM pedal assembly yesterday, and took it out for a test today. no adjustments made after the drive.

i would have appreciated the pre-assembly that seems to be apart of V3.0, but oh well. if i had waited, RJM has upped the Canadian price by $45 - probably to account for our weak dollar at the moment. the other adjustment improvements seem like a great evolution too. the 10-turn AFP (0-100%) is a bit tricky to get straight.

the good news: quality fabrication by RJM, complete install instructions, and certainly a noticeable improvement in 1st gear engagement and 1-2 shift smoothness. hill starts are a bit smoother as well. i am keen (for real) to let my wife have a go at it since she was no fan of the factory clutch. i'd like to get another opinion from someone used to driving manual hondas for 15 years.

the bad news: the gashes on my hands will heal, but my rib cage and back will never be the same. the install took me ~3 excruciating hours. i did not remove the driver's seat, so that's on me. the reviews on here and my previous clutch spring fix prepared me for the worst, but contorting my 6' ~200lbs frame under the dash and over the sill plate must have looked comical. i have no idea how bigger dudes can manage this.

i found the 'easy' install bits the most frustrating, like removing the lower sensor cable clip, and zip-tying it onto the new bracket. or farting around with the allen key on the AFP lockout. numerous things like this hung me up and led to the 3hr install time. i bet the V3.0 will help knock off some time since i wanted to triple check every assembly of the bracket and pedal to make sure i only did this once. if there was an experienced shop in my area i would gladly pay the 1-1.5hr suggested shop install labour if i had to do it all over.

i clearly did not drink enough beer during the install - also my bad. this very likely would have helped. at least my nerves, if not help lubricate my joints. all the beer was saved for after i was done, and a shot of tequila to numb the bruised rib cage.


i am set at 70% like the guide recommended as a starting point. the pedal is sitting ~1/4" proud of the brake pedal, similar to the factory setup. several threads are showing on the clutch fork. the lower sensor does not quite depress fully (per instructions), but the upper sensor does almost fully depress. i notice that when i release the clutch pedal i am able to pull it up a very small amount if i pull on it. this fully depresses the upper sensor.

now, two questions for the RJM pros:
1. if i am reading the comments correctly, at 70% i have lowered the friction point and widened the engagement window as compared to factory. going to, say, 50% will do what for me? and it seems 0% is basically factory, where 100% offers the greatest working range.

i'd rather not monkey around with adjustments unless there seems to be a clear winner for a setup. each adjustment requires access to the allen bolt, and adjusting the sensors. and, of course, further trauma to the aforementioned rib cage. perhaps i would venture back under the dash - but i'll wait a while.

2. do i need to be concerned if my clutch pedal can be pulled forward slightly after releasing it? the upper sensor is depressed, but pulling up on the pedal fully depresses it. the instructions said this was important, not sure why. the pedal is otherwise tight and everything feels good.

 

What do you need to make sure is the clutch is fully engaging. Best way to do this is to assume the position then sight at where the push rod meets the clevis. You're looking at the pin that goes through the clevis fork. There should be a very small amount of visible play at the pin when manipulating the pedal. That is, the pushrod is fully extended but the pedal still has a small amount of movement beyond this. So long as this play is present, your pedal when completely off the floor should be allowing full clutch engagement.

It is possible to adjust the top switch (cruise control switch iirc) where it's not allowing full clutch engagement. This is bad and will cause premature wear.

 

Just received my v3. These were the 3 things in the box: assembly, pedal and a baggie of hardware. Looks like everything else is on and ready to go.
I'm excited to get it installed when I have a chance. I'll have to go back and re-read all the pages in this thread first. I want to make sure I feel comfortable with it all before I go f*** something up.

 

Looks like I found my new upgrade. Rochester, your write ups and reviews should be published some where, hell of a job And I too love these rather small mods that make the joy of driving, well more joyous. Already replaced the clutch spring and it helped but this seems to be a game changer. And having already replaced my csc once out of my own pocket, this seems like a no brainer. I had help with the csc but the master clutch cylinder I replaced myself without any problems so now hopefully after reading all these posts, I can do this myself, just need that all important tool, beer! 🍻

 

Damn. Just when my Rev2 was installed today...I had to read this. Ugh. Looks much easier to adjust. Trying to adjust the Rev2 for me for the first time was like reading Greek. Actually I think I'm still kind of clueless about adjusting it. Will have to study more in the morning.

 

Question - do I have to adjust the clutch rod if I made significant adjustments to the AFP? Somewhere in the ballpark of 30-40%? I didn't adjust the rod and it seems fine, and I didn't see it in the instructions either, but wanted to double check.