Hi guys, I'm starting a new thread because the older threads that relate to this get dated pretty quick because of the software market, and most of them talk about using Torque, which is Android only.

So for you iOS users who use an OBD2 dongle (PLX Kiwi, ELM, iCar, etc) to transmit to their iPhone, what apps out there monitor what parameters? Specifically, I'd like the option to monitor AFR, and I know it comes through the OBD2 because Cipher can read it, but what apps allow that without having to buy a dedicated cable/sender? I'm not interested in clearing codes, and gas mileage readouts, which seems to be the selling point most of these apps try to push.

The popular ones that get recommended are:
- Engine Link
- Dash Command
- OBD Fusion

Does anybody have any experience with the latest versions of any of these? Any different recommendations? I'm hoping to integrate it into an iPhone 6 Plus and an 08 G37S Coupe. Thanks in advance!

 

Alright, since no one is responding, I'll turn this into a comparo. Hopefully this helps somebody. I've purchased the iCar wifi OBD2 reader:



That, and an iPhone 6 Plus is my hardware. I keep the phone updated with the latest iOS updates. And I'm monitoring the OBD2 of a 2008 G37S 6MT coupe. 45K miles and all stock sensors, if that makes a difference.

So far, I've downloaded the Engine Link app and used it for about 5 days. Initial impressions are good! It connects to the car pretty quickly, and I don't seem to have any connection issues once it's paired. As far as the gauges I'm monitoring:

- Engine coolant temp (f)
- Engine oil temp (f)
- Stock O2 sensor lambda bank 1 (v)
- Stock O2 sensor lambda bank 2 (v)
- Ignition timing (deg BTDC)
- MAF (g/s)
- Intake air temp (f)
- Short term fuel trim bank 1 (%)
- Short term fuel trim bank 2 (%)
- Long term fuel trim bank 1 (%)
- Long term fuel trim bank 2 (%)

Problems so far:
- There is a delay in the readings. It doesn't really matter, as you're only really ballparking these parameters. But you can blip the throttle, and then watch the AFR needle twitch and move after the engine is already settling down. So it's not that great for exact monitoring, but for temp gauges, it's fine. Which brings me to the next problem...
- Engine oil temp seems to be intermittent. Sometimes the dial is dead, reading zero, or whatever the least temp is; other times, it reads something (presumably an actual reading), but you don't know if it's still connected, so you don't know if that's a real temp reading, or was that just a snap shot reading from 10 minutes ago. So it's patchiness and unreliability on that dial makes that engine oil temp monitoring useless.

The good stuff:
- You get A LOT of "gauges" for $5.99. But they all have that delay.
- It's awesome that you can monitor timing, MAF readings, and AFR (even though it's only in lambda voltage).
- WAY cheaper than dedicated gauges, and if I see something consistently wacky, I can just pull out the laptop and actually monitor via UpRev.
- It's pretty cool that you can customize the gauges. I set up the gauges as two big dials side by side, and set the phone sideways, on it's back, on the ashtray spot just in front of the shifter. It looks great sitting there.

Overall, it's not bad at all. The engine oil dial is annoying though. If I keep using this app, I would just consider engine oil temp a parameter that can't be monitored. I'd say that the AFR monitoring alone, is worth the $5.99.

Screenshots:

 

Here's the update if anyone is interested. For iPhone users, get Dash Command. I can monitor all of the same parameters as Engine link, but there doesn't seem to be as much of a delay in the readings. It also feels like more stable app. I mostly use it to monitor intake air temp and temperature readings, but it monitors things like speed, gear, EGT, timing, AFR, etc. The AFR is pretty good, and there isn't much of a lag on it, so it's useable. I can upload screenshots, but I haven't done any custom configuring of any of the 'dashboard' screens, so my screenshots will look exactly like the ones in the app store.

Any questions, let me know! Otherwise, we can let this thread sink until someone searches for:

Dash Command
Engine Link
OBD2
iPhone 6

Incidentally, Dash Command is the software that PLX recommends to use with their Kiwi OBD2 reader, if that pulls any weight.

 

Your battery is really low I'm actually interested in how you make out with this Radio. I spent a lot of money on Innovate Gauges and a custom A pillar pod and I am not that happy with the final product. My boost gauge reads all over the place... never gets to 8 psi and is normally reading vacuum. And no I do not have a boost leak... as that would have translated into low dyno numbers. I suppose this setup would require a vacuum sensor as it is likely set up for stock NA cars. On a side note I picked up my car with the new South Bend clutch. Did you know that they use an Excedy friction plate? I had heard another member mention this but didn't really think that was possible. Clutch feels good. Way more pedal effort required... but very solid feel. Now my AFR gauge doesn't work properly I think they might have bumper wiring or sensor when the dropped the tranny.

 

It sounds like the boost line to your boost gauge is kinked. It should T off of the little nipple at the front of the intake manifold, facing forward. One side of the T should go to the intake manifold; another side of it should go to the bypass valve; and the third side should go to the boost gauge. It's probably a white plastic line that is really easy to kink. If it's kinked, it will read all over the place like you described, or if it's folded over on itself, it will always read vacuum. Trace it back to where it goes through the firewall to make sure it didn't get pinched or kinked when they were removing/installing the transmission. If it's an electronic boost gauge, you'll have a short plastic line off the T to the box with the boost sensor in it. You'll basically want to trace any wires or hoses that are around the transmission bellhousing area. Look carefully around the firewall.

The AFR gauge reads off the O2 sensors above the cats. If they're not reading correctly, then they may have been damaged in the clutch install. But if it's damage to the O2 sensor, your car will throw a check engine light in the next couple days if it hasn't already, so keep an eye out for that. If it doesn't ever come on, then maybe the O2 sensors are alright, but it's a problem with the gauge, or the box that reads off the wideband. Check where it was mounted to make sure it wasn't crushed or anything. The other thing about Innovate wideband gauges is that they need to be re-calibrated every now and then. Maybe that's all you need to do.

Yes, this is a decent system, and it only costs a total of $45 or so. And it's only temporary, for when you want to check or monitor something, if the car is running weird at the time. For real datalogging and monitoring, you can plug in your UpRev cable, and monitor more reliably. But this is good if something happens on the road - you can check it right away instead of having to drive the misbehaving car all the way home to plug up your laptop.

 

Radio... thanks for all of these well thought out suggestions. The boost gauge is digital so the tee goes to a sensor and then it is just wires to the gauge. Innovate stipulates that the sensor must be in a vibration free are and mounted vertically. They provided a very short vacuum line so it really limited options as to where to mount it so it is pretty close to the blower unit and maybe it doesn't like that. I may have to extend the line and see where else I could mount the sensor. Rainy day today so it might be a good garage day . My AFR used to be perfect, and to be honest that is the only gauge that I feel we need. Looking at the boost is entertaining but it is what it is and we can't change it. Different story on a Turbo. My mid readings use to be 14... like you when cruising. Hard throttle would make it go rich, and backing off quickly would make it go momentarily lean. Everything was fine till I had the new clutch put in. Makes me mad... I don't have a lift and I don't like crawling under the car to see what they messed up. Sorry... this is off topic. Do you have tips on clutch break in? I called Concept Z and they said 1000 miles of driving like a granny. No high rpm, (shift at 3K), no hard acceleration, no downshifting that will pull high RPM. I laughed... this sounds pretty extreme to me. On the South Bend website it says
"CAUTION!!
Due to the nature of the feramic material slipping may
occur upon installation. Seating the clutch may be
required. Drive aggressively but do not over-slip until
clutch has completely seated."

 

That sucks. It sounds like the clutch install did something with your gauges. If everything was good before the install, but not afterwards, then it seems pretty conclusive that the install did it. I'd take it back to he shop that did the install.

As for the clutch break-in, I sort of see it as similar to bedding in new brakes. Everyone has a different procedure. In that case, I go with what the manufacturer says. I think for mine, I drove lightly, daily-driver style, for about one tank of gas. Then the next tank, I started going full throttle more for little spurts, just to see if it holds. And it held, so everything has been fine since. Then I went on the cross country drive, and that was obviously a lot of highway miles, so that was easy on the clutch. I'd say that for you should just drive it like normal - no track days, no holding yourself on a hill by slipping the clutch, that kind of thing. Excessive heat in the break-in stage builds up a hot spot or deposits, and you'll get a bit of judder. But even if that happens, like a brake rotor, it will eventually wear itself flat with normal use.

 

Thanks for your suggestions on clutch break in. Very much in line with my thinking. Went for a "Sunday afternoon drive" yesterday even though it was Saturday. The car feels totally different and it is hard to drive it easy. Feels way more connected to the engine... more solid and responsive. I had a lag in the low rpm before... its not there anymore. I reprogrammed / calibrated my AFR and it made no difference. I don't hear exhaust gasses escaping so I am pretty sure the sensor is in place... that pretty much leaves a wiring issue as the culprit.