Subscribed! Waiting for the review.

 

I wont be able to do a dyno before and after. If i did it for everything I'm about to put on my car id be incredibly broke, especially with all the **** i just bought. I'm kind of obsessed with weight though, I even gutted my rear seats at one point, which I noticed a difference just taking out the back seats so I will definitely let you know. In 2 weeks I have a motordyne intake, amuse full titanium exhaust, fast intentions long tube headers, and lightweight crank/alt pullies, AP Racing BBK, and volk G2's going on the car so its all focused on decreasing rotational and both unsprung and sprung weight while increasing power. I will do a full drive before, then put the driveshaft on, and do another drive before I change anything else out and let you guys know. I've heard its one of the single best things you could do, not only for how light, but just strength and power transfer. Currently I just have stillen gen III's and stillen exhaust, suspension mods and i put my stock wheels back on for winter.

 

hey thats great info. Lemme update this driveshaft information in my rotational inertia calculation thread and i'll get back to u guys later

 

I guess you have money to spend? I did the alt pulley and it wasnt worth the money. I talked to Z1 inquiring about the motordyne intake and they recommended not buying it and they were the salesman. they said they did dynos before and after on all the ones they installed and people took them off cuz they lost hp but gained a couple tq. people dont realize that these engines arent that big, they already have dual intakes. and thats enough air coming in. sounds like you just like to spending money, i would port the heads out for 1000. i dynoed before and after almost all my add ons, otherwise when you get on this forum you have no proof.

 

Motordyne does not have a intake .. Please clarify ...

 

Yet.

I'm presuming he was talking about the M370 intake manifold.

 

ECain18 I can certainly understand your not wanting to do a half dozen before/after dynos after each of those mods. Besides the money, who has that much time? But if you do all those at once and then dyno or drive to get impressions of how it feels you'll have no idea which ones are benefiting you the most and how much difference each one makes individually. But I certainly wouldn't install a drive shaft and then go back to install an exhaust, it's so much easier and quicker to do both at once.

 

i dynoed my car in between my upgrades and yea it cost money and time but you learn first hand what works and doesnt. Im able to know if someone full of bs and believe it or not theres a lot. Example I know I gained 8 hp on stillen headers, youll gain more cuz your long tubes but what a lot of people dont realize is that cars needs back pressure in the exhuast otherwise they lose power. if your doing it all at once all i have to say is good luck. with long tubes and an aftermarket catback you will be close.

 

Yes it is the motordyne m370 intake manifold, sorry not intakes. I have heard of people losing top end hp, but having decent gains from mid to upper. I have heard of people with forced induction losing hp though. I am also in hershey, PA, and there really arent many reputable tuners around, especially within 2 hours. Closest would be in Landsdale, PA I would say. If one was closer, I would spend more time there. I wish I could and I understand why you did one after each modification because like you said, how else do you know? And just because your car is on the dyno @ 270 hp stock doesnt mean mine is the same or even that close. I know what you mean. I will be driving it in between some things like install pullies, ill be driving it. After brakes, i'll be driving it. After driveshaft, I'll be driving it etc so I will hopefully feel the difference. Whether or not that actually translates to dyno gains I will have to disappoint until I get a tune after everything is on.

 

Negative ghost rider. Exhaust flow and velocity. Look it up.

 

Guys lets keep this thread about the spoken of driveshaft, exhaust backpressure and velocity discussion can be resumed here: https://www.myg37.com/forums/intake-...its-wrong.html

 

sorry sam. Scheduled to be delivered today! We will see they haven't updated any info

 

ECain18: Good for you. I can't wait to hear your impressions.

37hevn: Why so challenging? You're coming off as an expert, but he already declared his rationale earlier, and that's fine. For him.

The G37 platform is one part performance and AT LEAST one part bling (Maybe two thirds? ) The Gallery is filled with beautiful rides which have made their owners happy installing cosmetics and non-essential aftermarket products.

If the customer is happy, that's the end game. And we learn through the process.

Coop

 

Coop,

Please keep your rational, mature, non argumentative comments to yourself. If you continue to interject calm respectful posts like this into threads where people are arguing over silly things or forcing their viewpoints on others I will be forced to take action and ban you.

Thank you.

 

The main reasons why Infiniti chose to use a 2pc driveshaft was because the 2 piece driveshaft reduces driveline vibration on our luxurious sport cars and because It also helps to distribute the load better across the extra u-joint, resulting in a u joint that will last longer. The stock 2 piece has a critical rotation speed about three times that of a one piece. The 2 piece also serves to dampen shock through the drivetrain. When you're racing though a 1 piece is preferred BUT I will say this to anyone considering converting to a 1 piece driveshaft, please use a 1 piece only in conjunction with a driveshaft safety loop just for added security and safety.