notalk

08 6MT, stock w/39K miles.

Last night, leaving an underground parking garage with big crowd. Exit ramp full while cars waited to merge into street traffic. When about 1/4 up the ramp, I waited till the car ahead reached the top. Suburban behind was right on my bumper. No room for any roll back. Rev'd to about 4K and let out clutch. Engine rev'd to about 6K, clutch was burning, and car did not move. Depressed clutch and tried again. Same thing. Third time I pulled up clutch pedal (now noticing it stayed down) and car very slowly climbed the ramp. Okay, other than the burned clutch smell, all the way home.

Guessing I need a clutch slave cylinder. While should be covered under warranty, I am guessing dealer will want to sell me a new clutch disc/pressure plate (probably claiming wear & tear outside warranty - altho wear & tear occurred when clutch slave cylinder failed). It will probably be cheaper and better to go with an aftermarket clutch slave cylinder (altho ZSpeed is out of stock on theirs) and aftermarket clutch (thinking South Bend Stage 1 for street daily driver) than to pay price of dealer clutch.

Any thoughts, comments, advice, etc? Thanks.

SpartanG37S

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the slave cylinder if you had to pull the pedal back up. I had the same exact symptoms when I had my slave cylinder replaced on my last MT car.

I don't think you'll need a clutch for some bad clutch slippage, especially if you drive normally. If you were at the strip every other weekend doing clutch drops and 1/4 mile runs, then yeah you may need a clutch. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother replacing it at 39k miles.

Also, if I'm not mistaken, the slave cylinder isn't a hard job and doesn't require dropping the trans. So I would have them replace the slave cylinder only. If you need anything else outside of that, go aftermarket.

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

I replaced my OEM clutch and slave at 60K. IMO don't bother replacing the OEM slave with another weak OEM one, it's not very good the begin with. Wait for the Z speed unit to come back in stock. I wish it were available when I replaced mine. I'd have gotten it in a heartbeat. I only got the bearing sleeve. I have the Southbend Stage III on my daily driver and I like it, it's very drivable.

notalk

Thanks guys. I am trying to avoid the worst case scenario; having the dealer take apart the clutch to get to the slave cylinder and to tell me there's nothing wrong with the slave cylinder, but that I need a new clutch. Then, I'd have to pay them to take apart the clutch, and maybe put it back together (altho I'd probably just flatbed it to an independent). The money I would pay the dealer would end up being totally wasted.

I emailed the service managers for the two dealerships near me. Same group owns both dealerships. And, service managers are new to each. We'll see how upstanding the service managers are.

I'd really hate to have to spend $300 for a dealer to pull apart the clutch and tell me there's nothing wrong with the slave cylinder. (But, I guess I'd end up paying $300 to learn there's no close upstanding dealers. That knowledge would come in handy when going to buy my next car.)

notalk

Bled and refilled the reservoir with synthetic DOT 3/4. New cap. Took forever to pump the system. Should mean a bad master cylinder.

I will try to find out from dealer whether warranty covers this now, or if I have to wait until complete failure. Of course, I'll pay myself to avoid the complete failure. It's better to pay someone to replace the master cylinder than spend time on the side of the road waiting for a flatbed, and waiting while dealer tries to determine in warrantiable or not.

Will post responses from dealer.

notalk

Going in to the dealer 1-11-11 for the dealer to check the master clutch cylinder. Either the dealer will be able to determine the master clutch cylinder is bad or the dealer will not be able to "duplicate the problem". If dealer can duplicate, I suppose the warranty will cover replacing the master clutch cylinder. If not, then I buy a master clutch cylinder and pay for an independent to replace it.

1cleanG

iTrader: (53)

^^keep us updated! I'm interested in finding out what they say. I have a 6mt with 28k miles

notalk

Dealer can tell there is a problem. Not sure if it is the master cylinder or slave cylinder. Can not duplicate the clutch pedal not releasing. But, can tell the clutch action is much lighter than normal. Kept car overnight. We'll see what they come up with tomorrow.

notalk

Forgot to say I'm not continuing this thread to vent or ask for help. I'm keeping the thread moving so people can learn from this situation if they have the same thing happen to them.

notalk

Dealer concluded the seals in both the master and slave cylinders must have softened/weakened/been bad. If it had been only one of the cylinders, the car would have made it up the parking garage hill. Sort of like the perfect storm; marginally acceptable master and slave cylinders meet a big hill from a dead stop. Dealer replaced both master and slave cylinders under warranty, and the car runs good. Clutch action is smoother than when new.

P.S. Also replaced battery under proration for a price less than new replacement. And, I didn't have to wrestle the old battery out and the new one in. Good because I don't have time right now to do the battery shuffle and the old was taking a while to start the car.

cruzmisl

Great to hear! Did they say anything about your clutch?

notalk

Clutch is fine. Even if it only lasts another 40K miles, assuming I still have the car then, I would want an aftermarket clutch installed at an independent garage anyway. I am more than willing to "eat" some miles on the original clutch/pressure plate.