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How many G37 clutches have gone bad with low mileage?

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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 07:32 AM
  #121  
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My clutch just went also after 37500 miles, I was actually on the way to the dealer for an oil change and after 50 mile trip there pulling off highway to traffic light the clutch pedal was hard on the floor, but i managed to crawl it the remaining few miles to the dealer.
I too have always had MT cars.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 06:54 PM
  #122  
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I've pulled away in 3rd inadvertently a few times without stalling. I once tried feathering the clutch in 6th to get going, I was able to get it rolling without stalling (10-15km/hr). I stopped before the clutch was fully out because I didn't like the abuse.

Should I be worried?

Flooring in 6th at 40mph results in no jumping of RPM.

When I pull away sometimes on inclines, if I give it too much gas or not enough clutch I feel like the clutch can't grab the flywheel and harness that power (revving at around 2500+rpm), this is what worries me the most.

08 with 85000km (53k miles)
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 01:25 AM
  #123  
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With all of these OEM clutch problems, has anyone had better luck upgrading to an aftermarket clutch? Does anyone make aftermarket slave cylinders that are more durable than the OEM versions?
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 10:31 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by SilverLeaf
With all of these OEM clutch problems, has anyone had better luck upgrading to an aftermarket clutch? Does anyone make aftermarket slave cylinders that are more durable than the OEM versions?
Yes. At 60 K I replaced it with Southbend stage III and an upgraded heavy duty CSC made by zspeed performance and a lightweight steel flywheel. I've loved the extra grip so far, even if it does give my left leg a workout.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 10:33 AM
  #125  
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Hey BB! Does your flywheel rattle at all with the steel flywheel?
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 11:28 AM
  #126  
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61.3K miles and my clutch still feels perfectly fine *knock on wood*. I'm amazed by how many people here have had their OEM clutch go bad. Lots of spirited driving perhaps?
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 12:12 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Weiboy718
Hey BB! Does your flywheel rattle at all with the steel flywheel?
Hell yes. Horribly. However I think it's the release bearing that's noisy, not the flywheel.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 12:15 PM
  #128  
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I wonder if their clutch just gets lots of reps when daily driving?

The freeway is about 2 minutes from my office, and about 4 minutes from my house. I would say mine hasn't gotten too many reps in the 20k miles I've had it.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #129  
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I'm a mostly freeway driver, very little traffic and no hills.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 12:21 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Black Betty
Hell yes. Horribly. However I think it's the release bearing that's noisy, not the flywheel.
Yeah. Mines get extremely loud too especially after a long drive.
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 12:15 AM
  #131  
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I have a 2010 G37s and my issue is when it's cold the clutch pedal stays down longer than it should until the car is fully warmed up. I took it into the dealership and they keep telling me nothing is wrong. A few people on this forum mentioned either TSB or advisory for slave clutch issue so any links on this?

My clutch fluid is very black as well and I know guys on this forum has had great success by doing DIY fluid change.

I hate the squeaking noise, clunking noise, large play in clutch pedal for engagement point.

Any advise is appreciated.

Thanks
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 01:19 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by sinnor
I have a 2010 G37s and my issue is when it's cold the clutch pedal stays down longer than it should until the car is fully warmed up. I took it into the dealership and they keep telling me nothing is wrong. A few people on this forum mentioned either TSB or advisory for slave clutch issue so any links on this?

My clutch fluid is very black as well and I know guys on this forum has had great success by doing DIY fluid change.

I hate the squeaking noise, clunking noise, large play in clutch pedal for engagement point.

Any advise is appreciated.

Thanks
I would say certainly do a fluid change on it. It probably will be slower when the oil is cold and hasn't gotten up to temperature.
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 03:24 AM
  #133  
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Out of curiosity, does the slave cylinder problem only affect the early model year cars (e.g., 2007, 2009)? Or is it still a problem in the current models?
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 07:58 PM
  #134  
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i was trying to find and quote the person that said this but i cant so im gunna paraphrase. but the person was saying that the clutch fluid shud be the same color as the brake fluid (almost see through) nd if the clutch fluid looks like ice-tea colored it could be a sign of bad master and or slave cylinders. well, i just picked up a g todat 086mt nd the clutch fluid was a little low and the clutch fluid did look like ice-tea colored while the brake fluid was full nd almost see through. nd it smelled like something was burning? the buring smell and everything else, are those symptoms of bad cylinders? the cars is still under warranty so if it is, infiniti shud fix this at no charge to me, right?
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:00 PM
  #135  
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The clutch does use the same type of fluid as the brakes (DOT 3 or 4). New fluid is indeed clear or very light honey colored, depending on the fluid you use.

As the system is used, contaminants will get suspended in the fluid. Besides color, are there any symptoms of clutch failure? Does the pedal not come up after taking your foot off of it [after high speed driving]? Does the pedal action feel unusual (binding or grinding feeling)? Is the clutch slipping?

If you have no issues, then just do a fluid flush and call it a day. being an 08, that should of been twice already. How many miles on the car?
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