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How many G37 clutches have gone bad with low mileage?

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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 10:22 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by RadMav
Your issue sounds like you are not pressing the clutch all the way down when you shift. The transmission will go from any gear to neutral without even using the clutch,with it partially depressed it comes out of gear easily. If the clutch is not depressed all the way it is like trying to shift with out using the clutch which can be done(not recommended), someone earlier in the thread mentioned truck drivers use this method. Without fully depressing the clutch the synchros have to get lined up in order to slip the transmission into the next gear up. If they are not the shift lever will pop back out which sounds like what is happening. Make sure you are close enough to press the clutch all the way to the floor. You can tell you are close enough, when you can put your feet flat on the floor under the pedals with a slight bend in your knee before you start driving. Then your seat is adjusted correctly. You shouldn't have to point your toes to push the pedal to the floor.

When the slave cylinder fails the clutch pedal will literally drop between 50% and all the way to the floor when you press on it. If it doesn't drop all the way to the floor the dealer will probably tell you it is fine when you take it in. Mine did that and I had to take it back three times, the last time it felt like nothing was connected to the pedal and you literally have to pull it up to get it off the floor.
Thanks sir! My seat was backed up to much. I appreciate it!!!!
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 04:21 PM
  #167  
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From: Seabrook, TX
Originally Posted by jwick
I had the slave cylinder replaced on mine a few weeks back but my symptoms were nothing like what you are describing. My clutch pedal would stick to the floor board almost like the line had an air bubble in it. Then after about a second it would release. The clutch itself was still strong because once in gear and with the pedal released it drove just fine.

The dealer replaced mine under warranty. There is an Infiniti bulletin out for the slave cylinder issue.

Good luck, there is no reason to have a clutch go bad that early unless you are just not a good manual driver.
Hi there, can you tell me more about the bulletin? I cannot find it anywhere and am now having to pay $3,225 for repairs on my 2nd slave cylinder (in a year) and to replace the entire clutch system.

Thanks,
Audra
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #168  
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I'm curious about this bulletin also. I feel mine on the way out.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 08:35 PM
  #169  
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My clutch its also mess up with only 52k miles and it was replaced by the dealer with the previous owner at 13k miles.
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 07:24 AM
  #170  
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Mine just went out at 48,000. I have had the car for four months and never got used to this clutch. I've only had MT cars for the last 20+ years and this is the only clutch thats ever gone out on me. I think I'll replace it with something other than OEM.
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 08:15 AM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by Rattlepated
Mine just went out at 48,000. I have had the car for four months and never got used to this clutch. I've only had MT cars for the last 20+ years and this is the only clutch thats ever gone out on me. I think I'll replace it with something other than OEM.
is it your clutch that went out or your slave cyl?
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 03:51 PM
  #172  
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I have 11k on my 2010 and just started to notice a little grinding noise when shifting into 6th gear. Nothing in the other gears. Any ideas?
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by Graphitestreak
I have 11k on my 2010 and just started to notice a little grinding noise when shifting into 6th gear. Nothing in the other gears. Any ideas?

I just had my transmission replaced under warranty on my 2008 for grinding going into 5th gear. It's likely the syncro. I had 69, 860 miles on it.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #174  
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I have an 08 automatic G37s 53k miles. This morning when I tried to accelerate from a stop light, I had to redline my car to even get it to move a few inches. Cut the car off then on and it accelerated fine then the same thing happened at the next light. I had my car towed to the dealership and they're running some "diagnostic test".

Not sure what to think or do...
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 01:50 PM
  #175  
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Wow, strange. I'm almost at 83K miles and haven't had any issues like that.

However, once in a blue moon, I'll get into my car and my clutch will be extremely loose. Takes almost zero pressure to push down the pedal and my engagement point will feel a lot lower than normal. But usually after driving it for 15 minutes or so, it goes away.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 02:26 PM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by chasemyaccord
Wow, strange. I'm almost at 83K miles and haven't had any issues like that.

However, once in a blue moon, I'll get into my car and my clutch will be extremely loose. Takes almost zero pressure to push down the pedal and my engagement point will feel a lot lower than normal. But usually after driving it for 15 minutes or so, it goes away.
Flush the reservoir and line with new fluid, making sure to get all the air out. Otherwise one day it may unexpectedly leave you stranded. Be careful with the bleeder nipple, it's somewhat fragile and not that hard to snap off.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #177  
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Don't have the nipple torque spec handy. Never actually used a torque wrench on bleeder screws. From the point they bottom out, it's just a tiny fraction of a turn to get them lightly snug. I used a torque wrench once on a double banjo bolt. Snapped it right in half !@#. Since then, it's all by feel.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 05:09 PM
  #178  
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^^^ What he said. ^^^

With any bleeder screw, only turn until it's closed enough to stop the flow of fluid and then STOP! Many of us have learned that the hard way.

I'm too lazy to look it up, but I'd wager that the torque value for it is in inch pounds not foot pounds. Just snug and no more.
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Old May 19, 2017 | 10:42 AM
  #179  
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Reviving an old thread just to rant a little

Bought my car with 60K on it and the clutch started slipping shortly afterwards so I replaced it with Exedy OEM replacement with a new slave cylinder included. 2 years later @ about 75K, my clutch pedal is now stuck to the floor after redlining first gear. I don't do burnouts or even drive it hard often, just the occasional redline here and there

Talk about bad luck

I'm in Canada so the mileage is in KM too, not miles.
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Old May 19, 2017 | 02:07 PM
  #180  
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^^Your issue is consistent with a failing/failed slave cylinder, not clutch itself. Try bleeding the system?
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