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Review Bell Raceworks rear differential brace

   
Old 01-24-2019, 12:56 PM
  #76  
Entcee
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Originally Posted by slartibartfast
I didn't watch the install but mentioned beforehand he might have to tape the nut to the wrench when threading it. He chose to epoxy it to the subframe with my approval and made no mention of possible pull-through.
As long as the nut is on the subframe side, and the bolt is on the brace side, at first it sounded the opposite way.

Originally Posted by slartibartfast
Even though this is a "meh" upgrade for me.
Did you have any wheel hop prior to installing this or at any time in the past?
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Old 01-24-2019, 02:58 PM
  #77  
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I'm not a hooligan so I don't do burn-outs except by accident. I occasional hop curbs at the track but try not to do that as it invokes DSC which chops the throttle and makes corner exit slow. I leave the nannies on as I have to drive the car home.
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Old 01-24-2019, 03:03 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Entcee
As long as the nut is on the subframe side, and the bolt is on the brace side
Why would that matter?

I'm thinking of replacing those two small nuts & bolts with SS, so they don't turn into hunks of rust. Maybe Titanium... IDK.
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Old 01-24-2019, 03:07 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by slartibartfast
To be clear, unless the transmission is in neutral, power is always going to the rear end. Even when stopped, as long as the car is in gear, power is being sent to the rear. This constant application of power at a stop takes up what compliance there is in any driveline bushing so there is is little noticeable change in throttle feel when taking off. Unless you try hard, most street driving will not involve quick on/off throttle applications so, again, the diff brace isn't really noticeable. Thus, 6MT owners will feel more of a change as they engage and disengage the clutch.
That makes sense. Do you have an A/T or 6MT?

Originally Posted by slartibartfast
I'm not a hooligan so I don't do burn-outs except by accident. I occasional hop curbs at the track but try not to do that as it invokes DSC which chops the throttle and makes corner exit slow. I leave the nannies on as I have to drive the car home.
I think I did my first session or two at the 1st track day with the VDC on as I got comfortable with the limits of the car. After that I have always turned it off as it kicks in just a bit too early and faster lap times can be had with just a bit of tire slip. You should try it. I think you will enjoy driving it better at the limit.
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Old 01-24-2019, 03:18 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
That makes sense. Do you have an A/T or 6MT?
It did make sense when I read it too. The AT is always engaged, making changes like this brace more significant for the MT crowd.

Anyway, look at his sig line.
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Old 01-24-2019, 03:26 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
It did make sense when I read it too. The AT is always engaged, making changes like this brace more significant for the MT crowd.

Anyway, look at his sig line.
I always look to the info. on the left instead of the signature line. One of these years I will remember.
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Old 01-24-2019, 04:03 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by slartibartfast
I'm not a hooligan so I don't do burn-outs except by accident. I occasional hop curbs at the track but try not to do that as it invokes DSC which chops the throttle and makes corner exit slow. I leave the nannies on as I have to drive the car home.
Summer tires + cold weather = hard not to invoke the nanny system.
Originally Posted by Rochester
Why would that matter?

I'm thinking of replacing those two small nuts & bolts with SS, so they don't turn into hunks of rust. Maybe Titanium... IDK.
This only pertains to the "finned" diff brace. The bolt head (and thin washer) is fairly small and could pull through the subframe with enough force. I could be wrong, but I think that is why the large thick metal is welded to the nut. That welded metal makes the force more distributed (larger) and would not be prone to bending (thicker). When the bolt is on the brace side, the brace acts like the thicker washer, in fact, the brace and the welded washer seem to be made out of the same stock.

Top pictures is the welded washer thing.
Bottom left looks like the bolt head could pull through, bottom right is correct.
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Old 01-25-2019, 08:26 AM
  #83  
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If you have the nismo Diff there is grinding involved. Found out the hardway. After that it fits like a charm..
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:02 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by NeverBoneStock
If you have the nismo Diff there is grinding involved. Found out the hardway. After that it fits like a charm..
any more details on this? what needs to be grinded?
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Old 02-03-2019, 01:38 PM
  #85  
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Installed my OEM brace on my Q40 AWD yesterday. Pretty easy install, but the hidden nuts in the subframe are a bit of a pain if you don't have a 13mm angled wrench. Also seems impossible to use a torque wrench on the upper diff bolt but i'm confident they are close to correct.
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Old 02-04-2019, 09:39 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by thezinfan
Installed my OEM brace on my Q40 AWD yesterday. Pretty easy install, but the hidden nuts in the subframe are a bit of a pain if you don't have a 13mm angled wrench. Also seems impossible to use a torque wrench on the upper diff bolt but i'm confident they are close to correct.
I still haven't done anything with my diff brace, because winter. Well, I did grind down a couple of high-spots in the welding and touched up the paint, but that's all.

thezinfan, explain the subframe bolt situation more, please.
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:15 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
I still haven't done anything with my diff brace, because winter. Well, I did grind down a couple of high-spots in the welding and touched up the paint, but that's all.

thezinfan, explain the subframe bolt situation more, please.
The subframe bolt locations are "hidden" on the nut side. The nut sits inside the subframe member. You can see the nut when it's in place, but once you put a wrench in there, you can't always tell if you have the nut engaged. I didn't have a 13mm wrench so I was using an adjustable wrench. If you have a normal 13mm wrench it's probably no big deal. In the attached photo, you can see the brace bolt head. The dark area is where the nut is hidden inside. Easy to see if you shine a light in there.

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Old 02-04-2019, 11:28 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Rochester

My second thought was how the heck am I supposed to get a torque wrench against the upper diff cover bolt? The bar itself is in the way. Looking forward to reading installation comments here from other people with the 4-point brace.
You are correct. I also couldn't figure out a way to get a torque wrench in there.
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:51 AM
  #89  
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Took me a few moments to get oriented in your pic, but I'm there now. Can't really see the subframe hole to figure this out, but how come you went bottom-up with the bolt, instead of top-down?
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Old 02-04-2019, 12:05 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Took me a few moments to get oriented in your pic, but I'm there now. Can't really see the subframe hole to figure this out, but how come you went bottom-up with the bolt, instead of top-down?
I'm not sure why I went that way. I figured it didn't make much difference since you have to get a wrench or socket on both ends anyways. I also think someone mentioned in this thread having a shop install it and epoxying in the nut, so i went with that same orientation, just without the epoxy.
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