***Disabling Traction Control is a "Track Only" modification and liability for this modification is on the owner/operator. Do so at your own risk***

If you are going to track the G or the Z one huge problem that we run into is the traction control always trying to ruin our fun. This is felt by power being cut when the traction control/yaw sensor kicks in. In order to completely overcome the traction control issue you must disable the Bosch Module. The VDC button alone will not give you the same result as the computer will still kick in when it wants to.

The Bosch Module aka "yaw sensor" aka "traction control unit" is located underneath the center console, almost directly below the cup holders. (In front of the arm rest and storage area) Removing the center console area will provide the most working space in order to complete this modification. Tools required (trim removal tool/flathead screwdriver, phillips head screwdriver, needle nose pliers, soldering iron, heat shrink, extra wire, razor blade/wire cutter)

1: Remove your shift **** by pulling down on the metal collar and removing the retaining clip.


2: Remove the plastic cover above the shift assembly (pull down and it'll pop out)


3: Remove the two screws located underneath this cover.


4: Open the center console are rest and remove the plastic middle piece by pulling up (it's clipped in pretty good). When that is done remove the wiring harnesses from the 12v and USB (or whatever is there, this is where my previous switch was)



5: Remove the armrest backing by pulling it straight out and disconnect the wire harness located in it.



6: Remove the two screws connecting the back of the armrest to the floor/frame (two black screws)


7: Pull up on the shift assembly and disconnect all of the attached harnesses. Mine were the seat heaters and snow button where I will be putting in my toggle switches. Also, be certain to unclip the shift harness and 12v harness in the front of the unit. After doing so you can remove the whole unit. Be sure to remove the two black screws located in the last picture as well.




8: Lift upward and pull back on the center console to remove it. Leaving you with an open working area.


9: The module is the white box pictured labeled "bosch". This is where the traction control gremlin lives. In order to wire in a switch the green wire must be cut.


10: Solder your extra wiring used for the switch onto the two green sections cut and heat shrink to cover the connection. On the switch end of the wire connect a quick connector or solder it straight to the switch (I use quick connects as it allows me to disconnect it if needed)



11: Place your switch where you want it and connect it. My switch is set up when it is off the circuit loop is closed = traction control on. When it is on the circuit loop is open = traction control off.



Now whenever I am going to track the G I can open the switch, thus cutting off my traction control for real.

In order to regain traction control the switch must be closed and the power in the car cycled (shut off and back on again)


***UPDATE NOTES***
Different year models/transmission types... will have slightly different access to the module. Big thanks to Jonesmeister1 for finding a pretty good walkthrough on removing the console. Tools used list: trim removal tool, Phillips head screwdriver, needle nose pliers, soldering iron, heat shrink, extra wire, razor blade, wire cutter.
http://www.twmperformance.com/manual...ion_manual.pdf

The FSM assists as well with removal under the IP (Instrument Panel) section
Index of /FSM/G37/Coupe/2010

 

did you splice both green wires to separate connectors then into the switch?

 

Yes, I wired the switch in line with the green wires. Making is an on/off for the TC.

 

I'll try to get some video of the differences soon.

 

thank you, very useful. I'm hoping it's the same wires for all model years and manual transmission models as well.

 

It should be. You could always unplug the unit too.

 

I just tried this and the slip and VDC off light will come on but it still cuts power when I try to do a burnout.

 

This is for the Traction Control only. The slip and VDC light make sure the TC is off, but it will not let you do a standing burnout. That is either the brakelight fuse or the ECU wire for that.

 

Dude I love the fighter pilot toggle switch, where did you get it?

 

I ended up getting a couple off of Amazon for pretty cheap.

 

i just went to track last monday and i can't really feel the fun. i'll do this soon for sure.
anyway, so what's the different between this TC switch and the brake light fuse? i heard about the brake light fuse, if you take it off, you can do all that "fun" thing, include standing burnout, but your brake light will always off

 

The TC switch as I have done is only for the TC components not brakes. The brake light fuse allows you to do standing burnouts or brake boost without cutting power. I will be trying to wire a switch for this as well later and will write up a DIY walkthrough.

 

so what is this TC switch does? if it still cutting the power.
sorry lil confused here
and yeah hopefully you can do the samething for the brake light fuse too.

 

The TC switch disables the TC/Yaw Sensor. This is crucial when racing as the car senses loss of traction and cuts power (which is a huge PITA when trying to get good 1/4 mile times or lap times). It feels like the car is going on/off with fuel cut.


The brake light fuse or switch is for standing burnouts or brake boosting, completely unrelated to the TC switch, but can be used in conjunction to make a more efficient/fun racecar. This function just allows the brake and throttle to be used at the same time without power cut.

 

I see. So this TC switch good for drift already??
Thanks for the explanation and this DIY.