Not sure on the drifting (not really trying to drift my AWD G haha)

 

The switch works perfectly!

 

I think the easiest way around the brake pedal switch cutting power issue is to run a separate power wire with independent fuse directly to the brake pedal switch to the rear brake lights bypassing the factory fuse-box and ECU, or you can just wire the line going from the brake pedal switch to the brake lights to the same switch you are using for the TC unit, but that would basically eliminate your brake lights altogether when you are using your TC deactivation switch.

 

It seems like there are a couple of different ways to circumvent this. I think I found a way to keep the brake lights and still allow brake boosting and standing burnouts. I'll have to look into it more and if it works I'll be writing a DIY.

 

Getting ready to do this mod. Just need to find a decent switch that fits in the factory location between the factory seat heater switches. Any ideas?

 

This is what I got (because Racecar!)

 

Thanks! That'll work great if I put it in the center console like yours, but I'd really like to put it on the center console between the seat heater switches, so I'd need something lower profile than that... otherwise it'd probably interfere with my hand/arm.

 

Looks like this is JUST the switch cover?

 

And where did you get your wire to splice in? Do you happen to know the gauge?

 

The switch is the cover and switch. The only thing I changed is the direction of it (so when I turn the switch on it opens the loop and cuts the power)


I had some extra wire laying around from another project. The wiring does not need to be too large of a gauge, the OEM wiring is pretty small gauge.

 

Ok sweet! So with the toggle switch off, do you get a fault, or does the traction control light turn on?

Do you flip the switch and press the traction control button to do a full defeat?

 

With the switch closed the electrical loop is closed meaning the TC is still active regardless of if the TC button is pressed or not.


With the switch open the electrical loop is open, thus cutting power from the TC module. This results in the light on the gauge cluster turning on and the TC system being fully defeated. The switch bypasses the button by cutting power to the TC module itself.

 

This is for the guy that was looking for a factory looking switch. Can you post a picture of what you're talking about. I may have a solution. This was in my 370z. All three used to be blanks. I believe Infiniti uses the same size switch.

 

Perfect! That's what I thought, but wanted to make sure! Thanks and I'll post my results this weekend!

 

Ok so I finished the install about 4 hours ago. Lt8Che's pic was correct! ONLY thing that differed was the location of the Bosch box. On a 6 speed, the box is behind the shifter. Wiring is the same and uses the same pins.

Attached are my pics. Please don't judge how dirty it is, I need to clean it up and I forgot to reinstall the composite plugs, so I will be removing the center console one more time.









Oh and it does work! on is on and off is off!