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I suspect that people are making this more complicated than it needs to be. It took me 7 minutes to do both sides, because I got a phone call in the middle. Don't unbolt the throttle body. Unscrew and pull off the rubber tube, hold the throttle body open with a finger, wooden dowel, etc. Spray carb cleaner in and use a toothbrush to clean the blade top and bottom, and the tube. They can be sparkly clean in 30 seconds. Don't be shy about rinsing and using the spray.
It's nothing like that people are just wondering. I cleaned mine I didn't think to check here and I wish I would have because I would have know not to touch the fly inside throttle body. That's why places like this exist so people can ask questions. So member ask on
Cleaned the throttle body's in my car this past weekend. I didn't push the butterfly's open at all, just took multiple qtips around the edges on both sides. I wasn't having any idle issues, but was more interested in the, now and again, hesitation I get with my transmission. The hesitation was pretty evident when the car is cold, so after I took the car for a test drive post cleaning, it seems to be far better. The car felt smoother and the gas felt a little more sensitive, which was nice. Car had 57k on it.
After reading 19 pages it appears there are as many people that had good experience as there are that ended up having problems with surging and high idle after the cleaning.
It appears that the pushing of the butterfly valve can cause the problems...or perhaps user error in not securing throttle body bolts tight enough, or incorrect MAF reinstall. .....unsure. When I clean mine I will make sure NOT to push the butterfly valve. It may have something to do with the sensors monitoring the exact position at shut down of butterfly valve and that position changing at start up after the cleaning?
Last edited by G37sGraphite; Mar 7, 2016 at 10:29 PM.
Gonna do this today after I get out of work. Really on the fence if I should even mess with the butterfly valve....we'll see how it works out.
Edit: Just cleaned it with barely enough sunlight. My girlfriend so graciously helped me.... anyway. They were disgustingly filthy; more so than what's in the tutorial. Accidentally moved the valve, so I went full in after that. Started the car after putting it all back together and luckily enough it started at 1100rpm and ended idle at 750rpm. MUCH cleaner start up. In no way did it feel like it was going to stall. Thanks OP!
Last edited by Gatson1983; Mar 8, 2016 at 09:18 PM.
Electric throttle control actuator AKA Throttle body.
In studying the service manual (2013) very closely I discovered some things that are not mentioned that may or may not make a difference in the cleaning of the throttle body and then the associated problems with idle etc. Note: Normal Idle is 650+-50 so approximately 600 to 700 RPM.
1. Do not disconnect the battery. It does not state to disconnect the battery in the Service Tech Manual. Why I dont know. I speculate that although the power is off the the "electric" throttle control acutuator may still be monitoring/recording the position of the butterfly valves. If it is disconnected it will not monitor it and when you start the car the ECU will not like what it sees. Again this is speculation but the manual does not say to disconnect the battery.
2. When removing the Electric Throttle Control Actuator, DO NOT REMOVE anything connected to it. This includes the two water hoses and the harness connector. Service manual states if you remove the harness you will need to do multiple relearns for the ECU.
3. There is a specific order to loosen and tighten mounting bolts.
Per manual:
-loosen bolts in reverse order as shown in the figure:
-Tighten in numerical order as shown in the figure.
So I suppose that its 4321 and then tightening it back up 1234.
4. Torque of these bolts is 6.25 FT-LB if you overtighten or undertighten could cause an air leak and ECU again will not like what it sees. (make sure your throttle body and rubber O ring is seated properly you know why....)
5. Do yourself a favor and buy a torque wrench and a Hex Bit Socket Set. Or the socket Hex bit metric 5 if you can buy independent. The whole set only costs around 15 bucks and believe me you will use it again.
6. Service manual states you MUST do the following after you clean the electric throttle control actuator inside:
THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING : Description INFOID:0000000008161734
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is a function of ECM to learn the fully closed position of the throttle
valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected or electric throttle control actuator inside is cleaned.
THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING : Special Repair Requirement
INFOID:0000000008161735
WITHOUT CONSULT
1. Start the engine.
NOTE:
Engine coolant temperature is 25°C (77°F) or less before engine starts.
2. Warm up the engine.
NOTE:
Raise engine coolant temperature until it reaches 65°C (149°F) or more.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Check that throttle valve moves during the above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
>> END
So the main speculation is should you move the butterfly valve I do not know. It appears that if you follow the DIY video and make sure you do exactly what the service manual states ..above... you should be able to move the butterfly valve and have no problems.
I hope this information helps!
Last edited by G37sGraphite; Apr 9, 2016 at 06:55 PM.
Man, just did the throttle body cleaning.. I've been ready this page for about an hour and I just grew some ***** to do it.. All that relearn process kinda scared the **** outta me. But you know me I wanted to feel the light and day difference so I just did it anyways.. Oh btw I drive a 2010 g37 sedan.. I unscrewed the four Allen key, didn't unplug the battery and the tb and scrubbed away! Yes, I did open the butterfly.. After that was done I put everything back together and yes don't freak out rpm jumps and went back to normal.. And once the car is off I turned it back on again! Check engine light was on so I reseted the ecu... And then WAHLAH!!! Everything was back to normal and yes the car runs like a black man in the olympics !!! Holy ****.. Recommend too everyone that has 40k miles ! My tb was pretty damn dirty.. Oh yes! Once you take out the tb check to see if you can see through the crack. If you can't then it's probably dirty as ****.. LOL
PS..
Save some time and buy yourself a set of Allen sockets. I have these laying around because I fix Accuair manifolds easy,fast and no stripped screws ��
^^What shape were your orings in? Or did you replace them?
I didnt replace the o ring after the process. I just took a microfiber and cleaned out the inside manifold and the o rings.. That was about it! Was I suppose to replace the o rings?!
If they're still sealing then no. But I imagine after 6 years they'd be somewhat deformed. FSM suggests replacement any time it's removed.
The oring is there to provide an air tight seal between the two surfaces. After time, heat cycles, etc, the oring deforms and may not seal properly.
Btw, torque on those bolts is 75 in lb (6.25 ft lb).
man JLO! what would i do without you? alright will get them replaced asap! its weird, i see alot of diy's out here but mines black instead of orange/red.. did the previous owner change it out? i did see the tb label and said hitachi nissan..
and thanks again for your fast response and your positive attitude =DDD
If your idle is steady and doesn't waver I'd leave it as is. In fact, I wonder if some of the idle problems others' have had after a TB service were actually due to an air leak at this location.
If your idle is steady and doesn't waver I'd leave it as is. In fact, I wonder if some of the idle problems others' have had after a TB service were actually due to an air leak at this location.
hahah yeah after resetting the ecu it was back to normal and with a huge difference with idle. much more response and better air flow when you step on the gas peddle. Well when i was reading what ppl post on here i felt most of the people having problems are actually messing with the wires or hose for a better position to clean. I feel like your almost right, Our cars do get super hot which it'll effect the o rings to have little cracks and start leaking air! Pretty logic! and not much help when people didn't post the year/sedan/coupe/7at/6mt or a update on the ecu when we had that problem of shifting rough...
easy,fast and no stripped screws ��
Cleaning TB