GSoccer24

Great info in this thread.

Here's my question:
If both toe and camber are adjusted via an eccentric bolt in an OEM setup, why then do the kits contain a pair of higher range eccentric bolts for toe, and adjustable arms for camber? Couldn't they just include two pairs of higher range eccentric bolts, have you elongate all the holes, and eliminate the more expensive adjustable arms? Or am I missing something?

TVPostSound

iTrader: (9)

They do!!

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...s-72265-a.html

Bong1012

iTrader: (3)

For the SPC front control arm, how would we know what setting to choose out of the 12 notches that are available?
I just set mine in the middle with it being even on both sides....
Also I found there being very little room to loosen the big nut on top on the SPC control arm since I have BC coilovers. Don't know how I'll be able to adjust the camber if I needed to..

BooSa37

iTrader: (11)

Without the proper tools you won't be able to know if your camber is correct. My advice if you don't have the tools to determine if your camber is correct, take it to a alignment shop.

Bong1012

iTrader: (3)

Totally agree and for sure I'll need to go to a alignment shop to have the alignment dialed in correctly.
I was just wondering for my own out of curiosity what those 12 notches do.
I installed the SPC front camber kit myself and wanted to get the alignment by eye as close as possible to what I had before so that its not TOO out of whack for my drive to the alignment shop.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the very helpful DIY. Pretty easy install after I found what worked best for me. I have the Dremel flex attachment but still found the clearance for the flex + the cutting bit pretty tight. I started using the #115 cutter and got one of the four holes done but the cutter dulled out quickly and was worthless for any more cutting. I decided to use a wafer cut-off wheel, those little thin (about 1/64" thick) and small (1" diameter) wafers. These worked perfect, it allowed the Dremel to be held in a vertical position so getting in the tight areas was no problem and they cut very easily into the metal. As the wafer gets smaller it allows you to get into the narrower parts of the slot. The part on my G37 that had to be elongated was painted black so I just used a sharp exacto blade to carve out a line inside the template as my guide, worked well and was easy to see as I was using the cut-off wheel. Just have your bolt ready and you just want it cut enough so the bolt turns freely, but nothing more, you don't want ANY excess play so the bolt should turn, but turn snugly if that makes sense.

soolman32

iTrader: (15)

The video on the previous page was very informational. Thanks

Domate

iTrader: (5)

I just had both front & rear SPC camber kits installed. I believe it's worth having someone do it and as everyone stated, an alignment immediately afterwards is a must. Here are my specs... (dropped on H&R)

rpm&my_G35

Hi, do you have any 'after' pics showing the front and rear camber? I would like to see what a -1.8 rear camber looks like.
Why is the left rear at -1.8 red and the right rear at -1.8 green? Is it due to rounding off?

TVPostSound

iTrader: (9)

I would look into the issue you have with SAI on the left wheel.

You will get "camber" wear on turns due to the increased scrub radius, being off by 1.2 degrees.

Domate

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure about the red/black numbers, I will ask tomorrow. I will also take a few photos later on.

I will also ask about this as well, I need to search and determine what SAI means. I know it shows it at the 'high end', but isn't it still within spec?

zir

iTrader: (1)

i just went through 3 of these #115 just doing 1 side, any sharper ones? lol

TomPeters

^ same here.... these bits suck for this job when the metal you're trying to cut through is STEEL and not aluminum. The videos with the Z's and early G coupes all have aluminum braces where the spring perch attaches and the toe bolts are located. My 2007 G35 sedan has a black painted brace that is steel. Anyone else run into this and find something that works????

Brad55Li

take the load off for the spring, to get access to the toe bolt area.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Just use the metal cutoff wafers~simple, cheap and you can actually have access to the work area without any flex adapters.