Installing SPC rear camber kit
02-28-2009, 07:09 PM
#16
Registered User
I did the springs and the rear camber/toe kit at the same time so did the alignment a few weeks afterwards to let the springs settle. on pavement, the car was driveable, but skittish. on snow (even light snow) the handling is totally unpredictable--the car twists and turns even at low speed! It definitely is a good idea to get an alignment ASAP as xlack pointed out.
Here is the thread to download the How2 on the toe bolt install:
http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-s...-protocav.html
The Dremel cutting bit is Dremel #115.
Use the flex extension for ease of access.
Here is the thread to download the How2 on the toe bolt install:
http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-s...-protocav.html
The Dremel cutting bit is Dremel #115.
Use the flex extension for ease of access.
02-28-2009, 07:55 PM
#17
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I did the springs and the rear camber/toe kit at the same time so did the alignment a few weeks afterwards to let the springs settle. on pavement, the car was driveable, but skittish. on snow (even light snow) the handling is totally unpredictable--the car twists and turns even at low speed! It definitely is a good idea to get an alignment ASAP as xlack pointed out.
Here is the thread to download the How2 on the toe bolt install:
http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-s...-protocav.html
The Dremel cutting bit is Dremel #115.
Use the flex extension for ease of access.
Here is the thread to download the How2 on the toe bolt install:
http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-s...-protocav.html
The Dremel cutting bit is Dremel #115.
Use the flex extension for ease of access.
02-28-2009, 08:33 PM
#18
Registered User
The camber arms and toe bolt install took about 1 1/2 hours. The toe bolt takes the longest, obviously because of the enlongation of the holes but you also have to loose the sway bar mounts because it's in the way. Difficulty? Easier than doing the front springs.
03-23-2009, 07:46 PM
#22
Registered User
The guy who installed my rear camber kit didn't have to drill any holes. I asked him about it, and he said it's ok. I seriously don't know how he did it but everything seems to be fine. Had my wheels aligned 3 times (after install, 1 week after, 1 month after) and they are all good.
03-23-2009, 09:46 PM
#23
Registered User
He probably didn't install the toe kit--the part that requires enlarging a capsule shaped hole. Many report that they can get toe zero'd without the toe kit when using Eibach. One less thing to install if that's the case.
03-23-2009, 09:52 PM
#24
I went through 3 of those 115 Dremmel bits. After I got the hang of it, it wasn't that bad. On a lift it would have been a piece of cake, but I was on my back on a creeper with the car on jack stands. You only have to elongate the inboard side of the holes not both ends.
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MStrike (01-20-2022)
05-29-2009, 01:03 AM
#25
I went through 3 of those 115 Dremmel bits. After I got the hang of it, it wasn't that bad. On a lift it would have been a piece of cake, but I was on my back on a creeper with the car on jack stands. You only have to elongate the inboard side of the holes not both ends.
So only the outer slots should be elongated?
Not trying to be smart but why not all 4 like some of the DIY's say to do?
Thanks for the help.
09-27-2009, 08:18 PM
#26
Both the front and rear slots on each side of the cross member must be elongated in order for the bolt to fit through. What I meant to convey is that you only need to elongate the hole toward the differential side (center of the car), not toward the wheel side. The template will have you Dremelling both ends of the slots, you only need to widen the inner part and not widen it out toward the outside if that makes any sense.
12-29-2010, 01:22 AM
#27
I was searching for something and just now saw this question. I hate to resurrect a dead thread but i want to answer the question because I hope nobody else misunderstood what I was saying like you did.
Both the front and rear slots on each side of the cross member must be elongated in order for the bolt to fit through. What I meant to convey is that you only need to elongate the hole toward the differential side (center of the car), not toward the wheel side. The template will have you Dremelling both ends of the slots, you only need
to widen the inner part and not widen it out toward the outside if that makes any sense.
Both the front and rear slots on each side of the cross member must be elongated in order for the bolt to fit through. What I meant to convey is that you only need to elongate the hole toward the differential side (center of the car), not toward the wheel side. The template will have you Dremelling both ends of the slots, you only need
to widen the inner part and not widen it out toward the outside if that makes any sense.
12-29-2010, 10:40 AM
#29
I only installed the SPC rear camber arms a couple weeks ago without toe bolt. At the moment I'm running my stock wheels and alignment shop was able to dial in the car perfectly. I asked if he recommends that I need to installed the toe bolt and reply was no. I'm wondering if this will be a different story once I put my Volks back on? If so I may do the toe bolt then. Any opinions?
I agree with what Xlack said, align the car immediately after install. My car felt so unpredictable on the way to the alignment shop.
I agree with what Xlack said, align the car immediately after install. My car felt so unpredictable on the way to the alignment shop.
