What's the tire/wheel setup you are running on your X?

Any issues with it?

 

https://www.myg37.com/forums/wheels-...ml#post3489564

 

^^^ Thanks guys, I was able to make some slight adjustments. I will try to re-install them this evening.

 

does this actually take 2 people as the original post states? what is the second person suppose to do?

 

To get the beer &/or call the paramedics
It's a one man job if you're a competent wrench-turner though

 

I will need this pretty soon.. is the camber kit absolutely necessary? I can get springs for $200 ish but with camber kits its around $800

 

All Gs drop a little different so hard to say for 100% certainty, but Eibach, Swift, & Tanabe springs are milder drops that most can get in spec without arms/toe kits. YMMV
I got the arms/toe bolts because I wanted the full range of adjustment and now that I have coilovers I can go about as low as I want without trouble.
Nice to have that flexibility rather than maxing out your camber/toe settings just to barely get it in spec.

 

Finally lowered the G on H&R springs yesterday. Thought about going the DIY route but changed my mind after reading the issues with the blue bolt. Got a really good price from a local shop

before


after

 

Nice drop, probably drop another 1/2" since you're on H&Rs. I'd wait a week or so before getting it aligned.

 

Just thought I would post my experience from yesterday just in case it helps anybody. Big thanks to Black Betty for his phone call last night to confirm what eibach told me. Long story short, when putting the new springs on the front we aligned the end of the top of the coil with the indentation in the rubber that was left from the original spring. That actually forced the metal plate on top to need to be turned about 3/4 inch which threw the whole thing off. The rubber cup at the top is basically just round and flat and once you put the new spring in it molds around that. Bottom line is to mark the top plate with a sharpie so you know exactly how to put it on in relation to the bottom of the strut. The eibach springs are not the same coil count as the oem ones so just be careful. It will save you a ton of time not having to re-position them.

Also, I used the $50.00 Harbor Freight Electric Impact gun that a previous posted mentioned and it worked perfectly on even the stubborn bolt. First try spun that baby right out without having to hold an open ended wrench on the back of that bolt. Best $50.00 I ever spent I think. I also got that $20 set of metric deep sockets from Harbor Freight.

Lastly, the second person is good to have around if god forbid something happens during install. Jackstands fail, spring pops loose while compressing it, etc. If you get injured you may need the help. Plus it's nice to have someone screw the top bolts in while you are holding the strut assembly down at the bottom.

Good luck. This is a job that I only decided to attempt because I helped/watched springs being switched on my previous 2 cars. It's very time consuming and if at all possible get someone in your area to help who's done it before. That's what the forum is all about, connecting with other dorks who love this kind of stuff.

 

i just installed the rears i had major troubles with the front. the bottom strut wouldnt line up with the bolt anymore we spent almost 3 hours. then we even tried to swap back to the oem spring. still wouldnt line up. we had to remove the upper arm and the tie rod bolt and work at it for almost an hour to line it up.

do you guys have any advice on how to get the bottom strut hole to line up again upon reinstall

 

If you are talking about the front struts, the problem is most likely that you didn't reinstall the upper strut mount (triangular metal "hat" on top of the spring) properly aligned with the bottom of the strut. The mounting hole on bottom runs longitudinal to the car. One of the 3 studs of the upper mount should be lined up facing directly outward when the bottom is lined up properly. If its more than a few degrees off from being perpendicular, it won't line up on the bottom when the top is in place. The spring ends resting in the indentions in the rubber is not important, the studs lining up properly in relation to the bottom is what matters.

Hope this makes sense.

 

You can try the following method to align the strut hole.
1) car on stand and wheel off.
2) Load the strut bottom and compress spring (see attachment picture)
If you are unable to load the strut, it will take you longer to compress the spring.
3) Unload the strut slowly, grip the strut bottom or the compressor rods(one on each hand) and try to rotate the strut to line up the strut hole. If strut can not rotate, compress little more on the spring until the strut can rotate.

 

we tried to make shurr to line the spring in the indentionsw. but we also made lil line on the top and a lil line on the bottom but wen we put the strut on it was still a lil bit offff. talk about pita getting this thing to lineup

 

The ends of the spring fitting in the indention in the rubber part isn't important. It will sometimes cause it to not line up. Just make certain that the top mount is aligned correctly in relation to the bottom - with one if the 3 studs pointing directly outward away from the engine, toward the wheel.